Jump to content

xxxAlpha71xxx

Registered Users Plus
  • Content Count

    130
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by xxxAlpha71xxx

  1. Coffee House from FC isn't half bad.
  2. This post is probably going to help me more than any other post I've ever read because it clears up a lot of misconceptions and expectations that I've "learned" are necessary to indicate that a candle is properly wicked.
  3. Turns out that was pretty much the final burn. I lit them this morning and they burned for about 5 minutes later. There was still quite a bit of wax on the bottom so I popped out the wick pin and wow, it was twice as long as the wick pins I see on pre-wicked wicks. Not sure how they get a full burn on the bottom with a wick pin that tall. Regardless, I can't complain about their customer service. I contacted them this morning through their Facebook page and they were very apologetic and said they would send replacement candles. I'll update this post when I see how the new candles burn.
  4. "Our Own Candle Company" $5.95 Hi guys. I've been away for awhile but still been plugging away. I got frustrated with tins so moved away from them a awhile. This weekend I went and purchased a couple of commercial 8 oz tins so I could see what a successful burn would actually look like . I'm assuming this ain't it. I'm wondering if the sides will melt down eventually but even if they do (and I don't have a lot of faith that they will with the burn time that's probably left and how much hang up there is on the side). If the sides do melt down before the candle burns out would you consider this a successful burn? Should this be what I expect to see or am I, in my inexperience, looking for something that's not going to happen with a tin?
  5. It's a conspiracy I tell you. I am *surrounded* by Candle Supply stores. All of them right at 4 hours away. I will be spending a week in Pigeon Forge over the Christmas Holiday so that will put me right at Aztec. Might have to stock up while I'm in the area and save on some of those shipping charges.
  6. That sorted itself out after they sat for a couple of days. Now I'm messing around with wicks. FC's wick recommendation for PB600 was Premiers but I get absolutely no HT. I put a candle in our bathroom that was wicked with a premier and asked wife to rate the scent strength from 1-10. She gave it a zero. Same candle with an ECO wick she gave a 7. Trying zinc vs Eco at the moment.
  7. That Coffee House is just awesome!
  8. Do you typically use the same percentage of F.O. in your melts and tarts as you do your candles or do you find that you end up using more/less? Thanks!
  9. Hey all. Anyone out there with ProBlend 600 experience? I just started playing with it and love everything about it but, wow, is it soft. I cored a candle I made a couple of days ago to take a look through the middle to see if there were any air bubbles, etc. What I found is that the wax in the center of the candle was the consistency of thick peanut butter. The surface of the candle is somewhat firm but you can still make an impression with a bit, but not a lot, of effort. Is this something that will firm up somewhat as the candle ages? Are you having to use Vybar or Stearic or some other additive? Or is it one of those out of sight, out of mind, don't worry about it things. Just concerns me how it's going to hold up in warmer weather if it remains that soft
  10. I started playing with that ProBlend 600 that I had laying around. So far, I really like it. It's very early in the testing process but the pour was great. No wet spots to speak of and the flame is just perfect. No issues with HT, at least with this scent (FC Apple Cinnamon @ 6.5%). Crossing my fingers that it nothing falls apart a few burns in.
  11. Thanks for the info all. I had a couple that I felt were getting warm but I don't think they were anywhere near 140 and certainly not near 170. I'd say they were equivalent to a very hot cup of coffee. Not hot enough that you couldn't hold them but hot enough that you certainly noticed it. I didn't have my temp gun with me and didn't think about it before I blew it out but I'll start checking them more closely.
  12. Container candles heat up quite a bit as the wax gets lower and lower in the container. I've searched around and I can't find an answer to a simple question: How hot is too hot?
  13. Look what I found. A thread discussing what we've been discussing. Pic is of a CD16 in an 8 oz tin with 6.5% of Frasier Fir from FC. You really can't even tell the difference in the MP between a CD10, 12, 14, and 16. The only difference is how well it cleans up when it gets down to the bottom. The only test that I've had that didn't leave a lot of wax in the corners of the bottom of the tin was straight 6006 with a CD16. I'm going to have to move away from trying to use 6006 in tins I guess. I can get it to work in smaller glass containers but tins just aren't working no matter what combination of wick series or size for any of the at least 10 different scents I've tried.
  14. I told her yesterday that she needs to just slow it down some. Not even considering the candle making process there has to be a business plan. Not only does haste make waste it also causes mistakes and some of those mistakes can get right costly. I shared the experiences you guys have had and she seems to have settled down somewhat. I basically told her that while I've made candles that we burn around the house what I've actually accomplished so far is getting a fairly decent grip of how the making and testing process should go but the mainly I've learned how much I don't know.
  15. I didn't realize they made a Z larger than a 60. Where are you getting those from?
  16. What wax did you end up moving to from 6006? I've got a 10 pound block of ProBlend 600 I'm going to play around with over the next week or two.
  17. Like everyone, getting the proper wick for a particular scent and container has been a challenge and I've been doing a lot of testing. I've found some wicks that seem to work in the containers I am using but am doing a lot of second guessing myself because my testing has shown wick requirements much larger than what I would expect from the info I've read on the forum. I thought it might be useful to post up some of the containers I am using, along with what wick series and sizes I seem to be having the best luck with, to compare to what any of you that may be using the same containers and wax are using. 8 oz standard Ball canning (jelly) jars: Have only tested one scent on these and it's still in progress. CD8 was way too hot by the time it got to the bottom. WI-745 or LX16 seem to be working ok. 8 oz elite jar from FC: Generally speaking I've found that a CD8 or CD10 works well with most scents 8 oz tin from CS: This has been a challenge and one that really has me second guessing myself. Zinc 60 has been too small. CD's have required a 14-16 to get clean sides by the end of the burn. LX's seem to be in the 22-24 range. HTP's have ran 105+. 12 oz elite jar from FC: Zinc 60 has worked with some scents. Others have been up in the CD16-18 range 12 oz Libbey straight side tumbler from CS: Minimal testing but CD 16-18ish Have any of you wicked any of these containers with 6006 wax recently? What type of wick requirements did you see? Are they anywhere in the ballpark with what I'm seeing?
  18. Four months in and I can make a heck of a wax melt. I actually have a pretty decent handle on the 8 oz elite jars from FC, pretty much CD8 or CD10 gets me across the finish line with 6006 and most scents. Those size wicks don't give me a lot of heartburn, it's when I move on to other containers that I start worrying about torches because I'm seeing wick requirements much larger than I expected for this wax type in these containers. That might be another annoying post I can make in just a few minutes. @bfroberts Thankfully, that new case of wax I opened seems to be pretty similar to the one I just finished off.
  19. I need some help (ammo) here. My wife is a bit impatient and as much as I've stressed it honestly doesn't seem to realize just how much there is to *successfully* make candles. I told her once I got into it that this would be a long, expensive road to travel. She seems to have forgotten that conversation. For those of you that moved from hobby to retail roughly how was long was it from when you made your first candle to when you sold your first candle. Roughly how long was it from when you sold your first candle to when you actually moved from the red into black. Just looking for close approximations here to help me explain that expecting to be in a position to go retail in four months is unrealistic.
  20. Before I move any further on this I have to do some testing to verify that the new case of wax I just opened burns the same as the one I just emptied. I think next order I'm just going to order 4 or 5 cases then put like 2 pounds of each case in the presto pot whenever I refill. I finished up the tins in the photos last night. Out of all of them the CD 16 (the bottom one in the photo-somehow I cut the label out of the pic) was the only one that cleaned the sides and the bottom. On one hand well, it works...on the other it scares me because I see everyone talking about how hot tins get....but on the other hand (yeah, I had to call in a spare for this) I hit the bottom of the tin with a temp gun and even with the CD 16 didn't have a temp above 110F. @TallTayl What wax are you using in your 8 oz tins?
  21. I've gotten a bit frustrated myself and have a new approach. I've done a bunch of testing that shows that a CD 10 wick in 6006 wax in an 8 oz elite jar from FC works for a lot of the scents I've tested . If I make a test candle that doesn't work with a CD10 then I'm just putting that scent to the side to re-visit later. Now, if I can just get those 8 oz tins to cooperate....
  22. Thanks TT. I think my problem is that I get hung up on what I used to think was happening in the interaction between wax and wick vs what is actually happening. Having never really considered the relationship between the wax and the wick I guess I just kind of assumed that the wick was kind of a conveyance mechanism for the flame vs what it actually is, a conveyance mechanism for the wax. I guess the term "wick" should have been a hint. Viscosity never entered my mind. I was in construction quality control for 25+ years. Virtually every single material used in construction has to be tested in accordance with ASTM's to ensure they met specifications. I mean everything from aggregates, asphalt cement, nuts and bolts, concrete, and soils. You name it and it pretty much has a test method and associated spec governing it. And it wasn't just tested once. The contractor had to do Quality Control testing, the state DOT did Quality Assurance testing to verify the contractors results, then the Feds would pop in every so often to do verification testing to make sure the contractor and the state were both doing their job correctly. With all of the testing (read that overkill) we had to do and specs we had to meet I wonder if wax manufacturers have specifications they have to meet and who sets those specifications. I know there's an ASTM for candle safety but I'm not sure if there are actual specifications regarding the wax properties themselves. It seems that I see a lot of people talking about how wax can change from case to case. You'd think that there would be some requirements that manufacturers have to meet to make sure that doesn't happen.
  23. Do you see any comments/complaints from people regarding the level of materials in a container candle? I would expect that there could be a considerable difference in the level of wax from one candle to another depending on the density and percentage of the FO used, along with the size of the container.. I've never actually paid attention to that sort of thing when I've seen candles at retailers....until I started attempting to make candles myself. Do your customers seem to notice/care? That brings up another question. When you fill do you weigh each candle? Or do you just weigh the first and fill the rest to that approximate level?
  24. I was just reading around looking at wax information that, once I really sat down and thought about it, just seems backwards to me. General knowledge indicates that a soy wax like 464 will require a larger wick than a para soy blend like 6006. However, 6006 is listed as having a melt point of 133F while 464 is listed as 119F-125F. I know there's an explanation for this but it escapes me. Can someone please explain why the lower melt point wax requires a larger wick than the wax with the much higher melt point? I need a book that covers the chemistry and behaviors of different wax types; wick series behaviors, pros, and cons; an outline of proper wick testing procedures with photos of a successful test from start to finish; how specific gravity of a fragrance oil affects wick size requirements; how to eliminate or at least minimize mushrooming; candle safety; maximizing patience and eliminating shortcuts during the curing and testing process; as well as how to make the world's best margarita. For starters.
×
×
  • Create New...