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Everything posted by xxxAlpha71xxx

  1. Thanks for the info all. I had a couple that I felt were getting warm but I don't think they were anywhere near 140 and certainly not near 170. I'd say they were equivalent to a very hot cup of coffee. Not hot enough that you couldn't hold them but hot enough that you certainly noticed it. I didn't have my temp gun with me and didn't think about it before I blew it out but I'll start checking them more closely.
  2. Container candles heat up quite a bit as the wax gets lower and lower in the container. I've searched around and I can't find an answer to a simple question: How hot is too hot?
  3. Look what I found. A thread discussing what we've been discussing. Pic is of a CD16 in an 8 oz tin with 6.5% of Frasier Fir from FC. You really can't even tell the difference in the MP between a CD10, 12, 14, and 16. The only difference is how well it cleans up when it gets down to the bottom. The only test that I've had that didn't leave a lot of wax in the corners of the bottom of the tin was straight 6006 with a CD16. I'm going to have to move away from trying to use 6006 in tins I guess. I can get it to work in smaller glass containers but tins just aren't working no matter what combination of wick series or size for any of the at least 10 different scents I've tried.
  4. I told her yesterday that she needs to just slow it down some. Not even considering the candle making process there has to be a business plan. Not only does haste make waste it also causes mistakes and some of those mistakes can get right costly. I shared the experiences you guys have had and she seems to have settled down somewhat. I basically told her that while I've made candles that we burn around the house what I've actually accomplished so far is getting a fairly decent grip of how the making and testing process should go but the mainly I've learned how much I don't know.
  5. I didn't realize they made a Z larger than a 60. Where are you getting those from?
  6. What wax did you end up moving to from 6006? I've got a 10 pound block of ProBlend 600 I'm going to play around with over the next week or two.
  7. Like everyone, getting the proper wick for a particular scent and container has been a challenge and I've been doing a lot of testing. I've found some wicks that seem to work in the containers I am using but am doing a lot of second guessing myself because my testing has shown wick requirements much larger than what I would expect from the info I've read on the forum. I thought it might be useful to post up some of the containers I am using, along with what wick series and sizes I seem to be having the best luck with, to compare to what any of you that may be using the same containers and wax are using. 8 oz standard Ball canning (jelly) jars: Have only tested one scent on these and it's still in progress. CD8 was way too hot by the time it got to the bottom. WI-745 or LX16 seem to be working ok. 8 oz elite jar from FC: Generally speaking I've found that a CD8 or CD10 works well with most scents 8 oz tin from CS: This has been a challenge and one that really has me second guessing myself. Zinc 60 has been too small. CD's have required a 14-16 to get clean sides by the end of the burn. LX's seem to be in the 22-24 range. HTP's have ran 105+. 12 oz elite jar from FC: Zinc 60 has worked with some scents. Others have been up in the CD16-18 range 12 oz Libbey straight side tumbler from CS: Minimal testing but CD 16-18ish Have any of you wicked any of these containers with 6006 wax recently? What type of wick requirements did you see? Are they anywhere in the ballpark with what I'm seeing?
  8. Four months in and I can make a heck of a wax melt. I actually have a pretty decent handle on the 8 oz elite jars from FC, pretty much CD8 or CD10 gets me across the finish line with 6006 and most scents. Those size wicks don't give me a lot of heartburn, it's when I move on to other containers that I start worrying about torches because I'm seeing wick requirements much larger than I expected for this wax type in these containers. That might be another annoying post I can make in just a few minutes. @bfroberts Thankfully, that new case of wax I opened seems to be pretty similar to the one I just finished off.
  9. I need some help (ammo) here. My wife is a bit impatient and as much as I've stressed it honestly doesn't seem to realize just how much there is to *successfully* make candles. I told her once I got into it that this would be a long, expensive road to travel. She seems to have forgotten that conversation. For those of you that moved from hobby to retail roughly how was long was it from when you made your first candle to when you sold your first candle. Roughly how long was it from when you sold your first candle to when you actually moved from the red into black. Just looking for close approximations here to help me explain that expecting to be in a position to go retail in four months is unrealistic.
  10. Before I move any further on this I have to do some testing to verify that the new case of wax I just opened burns the same as the one I just emptied. I think next order I'm just going to order 4 or 5 cases then put like 2 pounds of each case in the presto pot whenever I refill. I finished up the tins in the photos last night. Out of all of them the CD 16 (the bottom one in the photo-somehow I cut the label out of the pic) was the only one that cleaned the sides and the bottom. On one hand well, it works...on the other it scares me because I see everyone talking about how hot tins get....but on the other hand (yeah, I had to call in a spare for this) I hit the bottom of the tin with a temp gun and even with the CD 16 didn't have a temp above 110F. @TallTayl What wax are you using in your 8 oz tins?
  11. I've gotten a bit frustrated myself and have a new approach. I've done a bunch of testing that shows that a CD 10 wick in 6006 wax in an 8 oz elite jar from FC works for a lot of the scents I've tested . If I make a test candle that doesn't work with a CD10 then I'm just putting that scent to the side to re-visit later. Now, if I can just get those 8 oz tins to cooperate....
  12. Thanks TT. I think my problem is that I get hung up on what I used to think was happening in the interaction between wax and wick vs what is actually happening. Having never really considered the relationship between the wax and the wick I guess I just kind of assumed that the wick was kind of a conveyance mechanism for the flame vs what it actually is, a conveyance mechanism for the wax. I guess the term "wick" should have been a hint. Viscosity never entered my mind. I was in construction quality control for 25+ years. Virtually every single material used in construction has to be tested in accordance with ASTM's to ensure they met specifications. I mean everything from aggregates, asphalt cement, nuts and bolts, concrete, and soils. You name it and it pretty much has a test method and associated spec governing it. And it wasn't just tested once. The contractor had to do Quality Control testing, the state DOT did Quality Assurance testing to verify the contractors results, then the Feds would pop in every so often to do verification testing to make sure the contractor and the state were both doing their job correctly. With all of the testing (read that overkill) we had to do and specs we had to meet I wonder if wax manufacturers have specifications they have to meet and who sets those specifications. I know there's an ASTM for candle safety but I'm not sure if there are actual specifications regarding the wax properties themselves. It seems that I see a lot of people talking about how wax can change from case to case. You'd think that there would be some requirements that manufacturers have to meet to make sure that doesn't happen.
  13. Do you see any comments/complaints from people regarding the level of materials in a container candle? I would expect that there could be a considerable difference in the level of wax from one candle to another depending on the density and percentage of the FO used, along with the size of the container.. I've never actually paid attention to that sort of thing when I've seen candles at retailers....until I started attempting to make candles myself. Do your customers seem to notice/care? That brings up another question. When you fill do you weigh each candle? Or do you just weigh the first and fill the rest to that approximate level?
  14. I was just reading around looking at wax information that, once I really sat down and thought about it, just seems backwards to me. General knowledge indicates that a soy wax like 464 will require a larger wick than a para soy blend like 6006. However, 6006 is listed as having a melt point of 133F while 464 is listed as 119F-125F. I know there's an explanation for this but it escapes me. Can someone please explain why the lower melt point wax requires a larger wick than the wax with the much higher melt point? I need a book that covers the chemistry and behaviors of different wax types; wick series behaviors, pros, and cons; an outline of proper wick testing procedures with photos of a successful test from start to finish; how specific gravity of a fragrance oil affects wick size requirements; how to eliminate or at least minimize mushrooming; candle safety; maximizing patience and eliminating shortcuts during the curing and testing process; as well as how to make the world's best margarita. For starters.
  15. On the weight vs volume topic: With measuring and proportioning our materials by weight how then do you go about filling (and labeling) your containers? By weight or by volume?
  16. Thanks @bfroberts. I thought I was going insane. This is the 2nd 60 pound case of 6006 I've gotten from CS-around a month apart-and I've seen similar results with both. I need to go check the lots and see if they are the same. Add HTP 105 to the list. I didn't have pics of that one but it had similar results. I've got the 8 oz Elite jars from FC and they seem to work pretty well with most scents with a CD10. I've also got some regular 8 oz Ball canning jars that I'm playing around with that seem to be doing ok with either a CD 8 or a Z51. I messed around with some of the 12 oz Elite jars from FC and was looking at around a CD18. I'm thinking that I may use the 6006 for those 8 oz jars.. For the tins, I've got some ProBlend 600 I can play around with and there's always 464.
  17. Forrest has done some excellent work on testing 6006 with 8 oz tins and has indicated that, for the majority of his tins, a Zinc 51 seems to work well. I'm not sure if it's the wax I have, the tins I am using, sea level, how I'm holding my mouth, or what shoes I'm wearing but my results aren't coming up anywhere close. Regardless of scent or percentage I haven't had a successful (at least, what I have been considering to be successful) test on anything smaller than a Z60 on any of the scents I've tried, with that not being large enough in a lot of cases. I went back to the drawing board and put together some tins with 100% 6006, no scent, no dye, aged one week with the idea that I was going to overwick them (based on what I've read about wick sizes, 8 oz tins, and 6006 wax) just to see what would happen. The only ones I felt might not be too far out of line were the ECO 10 and the Z60. In these photos are ECO 10, Zinc 60, LX 22, LX 24, CD 14, CD 16. This was about 2.5 hours into burn #5. At this point I'm not even sure what I'm looking at. I guess what would really be helpful is if someone had photos of a successful 8 oz tin wick test that they could post. That would give me an actual idea of what I should be looking for, EDIT: Peak temps on the outside of tins at this point is 105F.
  18. Candles and Supplies is where I got those. I wasn't happy with one of the packs I received but they've sent out a replacement so can't complain about their customer service.
  19. Ignore me. I'm an idiot. Found a topic Forrest made about this very thing just a few days ago.
  20. Does anyone out there have a reliable source for RRD and RRD NS-2 wicks? I ordered some to play around with but wasn't real happy with what I received. The 40s that were in the order pretty much missed out on the priming wax and had a terrible amount of bends and breaks. I'm probably going to have much better luck finding a consistent and reliable source if I ask you guys instead of Google. Pic is 34, 37, three 40s, and a 47. Thanks Chris
  21. Wow, search is your friend. I just posted a poll on this yesterday....then ran across this post searching for various topics on 8 oz tins.
  22. Went to a craft fair with my wife today and of the 4 vendors that were selling candles none of them were using dye. For curiosity sake do you dye your candles? Why or why not?
  23. I just made a set that's going into my storage closet. With dye: CD8, LX18 Zinc 51 WI 755 HTP 104 ECO 8 Did another CD8 without dye. See you in a couple of weeks.
  24. I *know* I need an intervention. I woke up yesterday morning and told my wife that someone had emailed me and told me that a Premier 765 would work perfect in an 8 oz tin. When you start dreaming about candles and wicks....well, the first step is you have to realize and admit that you have a problem
  25. Left to right CD 8, 10, and 12. The CD 8 cleaned up very well. The CD 10 and 12 left quite a bit of wax in the corners. Should I be happy with what I'm seeing on the CD8 even if it never achieved a "full melt pool"?
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