Crafty1_AJ Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 5 hours ago, GoldieMN said: So what do you do, second pours? GoldieMN No, I typically pour soy just before it sets up, so I don't generally get problems with the tops. But these particular candles had gotten some heat in the car or at farmer's market in the summer, and the tops got weird. So I tried the heat gun. Epic fail. They developed seepage on top. Only time that's happened to me with soy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gls Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 41 minutes ago, TallTayl said: All this makes total sense, doesn’t it? Soy wax forms loads of large crystals ( “grains” ) when cooling too slow, just like palm wax. The difference being palm wax grains are pretty and STABLE. I agree! The seeping soy candles I had looked and felt like gross rice pudding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldieMN Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 9 hours ago, gls said: During my many soy wax test attempts, the only time I had a MAJOR seepage issue was when I put the candles in a VERY HOT insulated box to slowly cool. Half of the testers were not in insulated box and no seepage at all! When I dug down in the ones that were seeping the wax was a weird almost gelatin like substance. They never did setup. I melted them down and repoured with normal cool down and they looked normal again no seepage! Of course they were still ugly like most of my testers but no seepage😏! That was gb464 not c1 Ha! I woke up during the night thinking about this--melt them down and try again. Thanks! Goldie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 21 minutes ago, GoldieMN said: Ha! I woke up during the night thinking about this--melt them down and try again. Thanks! Goldie I would try a gentle repair. melt these to just clear, stirring very well, cool quickly in the pour pot to cloudy (nearly slushy stirring frequently) then pour. If using glass, warm to prevent jump lines. Quick cool creates small crystals. Small crystals in soy tend to remain stable. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebleo Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 How is the C1 testing going for you guys? I have 6 testers curing now and impatiently waiting for my first trial run. What is your favorite wick series with this wax? I have six different series going. Anyone tried wood wicks with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 C1 has performed well in my early wood wick tests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebleo Posted March 7, 2019 Share Posted March 7, 2019 That’s good to hear. I have never worked with them, but am interested in trying it out because no one uses them around here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellajoan Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 The quick cool method is genius with this wax--beautiful tops if I pour when it's cloudy and crystals forming. If pour too hot, though, the tops are some of the ugliest I've seen. Still playing with wicks and sizes for this wax. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lauralea Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Just starting to test this wax, HTP wicks are working the best for me in 4 oz tins, 8 ounce mason jars and a ziva jar. I let my tins cool cool in an enclosed box and tops are perfect. I let the jars cool in a box but also sitting on a heating pad and tops look really nice except for one that had a little diver but did not form that thin, brittle layer on top. The next time I decided to put the heating pad on top of the box to cool instead of on the bottom. Tops were horrible and mushy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebleo Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 I’m confused. With soy you want a quick cool, so why do some of you use heating elements during the cooling process? What am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lauralea Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 Whenever I quick cooled this wax it formed a thin, brittle crust on top. If I slow cool it, the tops are hard and smooth. Maybe it’s due to the palm in it. Someone at the beginning of this topic also had the same issue as I did. I’m still in the testing stages 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 10 hours ago, Sebleo said: I’m confused. With soy you want a quick cool, so why do some of you use heating elements during the cooling process? What am I missing? A lot depends on your container, IMO/IME. Ambient conditions factor in also. if using a tin, or other opaque container, cooling quickly in the pour pot then pouring when c1 begins to crystallize prevents (or at least really minimizes) cavities and produces really nice tops. Makes them nearly always single pour with little to no heat gun fixing needed. If pouring too cool/cold wax in clear glass containers you often get jump lines and ugly wet spots, so pouring hotter into warm glass is sometimes the answer. This is also prime territory for cavities and strange tops. Sometimes if the glass is super warm, cool/cloudy wax poured quickly enough can minimize jump lines and wet spots giving a really gorgeous candle. To answer the original question quoted above, That layer of glass like wax on top of a c1 hot pour that is cooled in the container and cooled too quickly/unevenly is fascinating. Cooling “controlled” and “evenly” not necessarily slow prevents a lot of the issues so common and frustrating with soy. Eliminate drafts, and avoid overly cool spaces after pouring. If the table top is cold the candle will cool unevenly, sucking air down the wick creating cavities that will need repair. Repeating the “even” cooling as it is similar in a lot of way in other crafts. Potter’s always scream to dry our wares slowly to prevent cracks. Well, they’re not actually correct. Dry EVENLY and you not only prevent physical defects, but you can speed up the process by days, sometimes weeks. Same with candles. Cool them evenly and your process time is usually cut incredibly shorter. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebleo Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 Thank you for the detailed explanation. That makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lauralea Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 I did a second pour on some testers to see if that would give me a smooth top. Tops are really smooth and nice, but after a couple of days they all have seepage. I used 10% fo. Does anybody do second pours to fix tops or just use the heat gun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 I’ve only used a heat gun. Have not had any seepage with that way (touches wood). I use 8% max FO though, so there may be part of the problem. While the wax tech sheet “says” 10% max, depending on how you measure the oil and the specific oil that may be pushing the limit. Some oils are more dense than others meaning less actual fragrance to hold. If you absolutely need to use higher fragrance maybe give nature wax elite 200 a try. The c1 base has been modified to hold more fragrance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lauralea Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 If I use a heat gun on the tops will it get rid of the seepage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 16, 2019 Share Posted March 16, 2019 37 minutes ago, lauralea said: If I use a heat gun on the tops will it get rid of the seepage? Depends on what caused the seepage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebleo Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 How is your ht with C-1? So far all of mine are light to medium throwers. Could be the specific scents I’m testing too. What wicks are you using? I’ve tried cd, eco, and htp. They all threw pretty well, but htp seems to be the best burn overall with the least mushrooming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 9 hours ago, Sebleo said: How is your ht with C-1? So far all of mine are light to medium throwers. Could be the specific scents I’m testing too. What wicks are you using? I’ve tried cd, eco, and htp. They all threw pretty well, but htp seems to be the best burn overall with the least mushrooming. Considering C1 contains 20% palm, you may want to look into wicks designed for palm, such as CSN or even RRD. CDN wicks are also worth trying as they are chemically treated for caustic natural waxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebleo Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 3 hours ago, TallTayl said: Considering C1 contains 20% palm, you may want to look into wicks designed for palm, such as CSN or even RRD. CDN wicks are also worth trying as they are chemically treated for caustic natural waxes. Ok thank you. I have some csn and can’t recall if I tried those. I’ll have to find cdn and rrd as none of my current suppliers sell those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 58 minutes ago, Sebleo said: Ok thank you. I have some csn and can’t recall if I tried those. I’ll have to find cdn and rrd as none of my current suppliers sell those. personally I dislike the burn of RRD but some palm wax people I know swear by them. CSN is one of my "go to" series when CD are not a great fit. CDN can be hit or miss depending on the fragrance (like anything else). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebleo Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 2 hours ago, TallTayl said: personally I dislike the burn of RRD but some palm wax people I know swear by them. CSN is one of my "go to" series when CD are not a great fit. CDN can be hit or miss depending on the fragrance (like anything else). Thank you. I plugged in some csn’s to test. I can’t find the csn guide on CS anymore- and I’m running low on my sample pack. Where do you think a good starting point is for a 3.125 inch jar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted July 25, 2019 Share Posted July 25, 2019 Assumptions: no neck pn the jar 3” tall jar For pure c1 and an average fragrance I’d likely start at csn12 or Csn 14 in a 16 oz salsa jar with a hard to burn case of c1 in deep winter in Illinois a csn16 was great in fillmore spearmint eucalyptus. Did not wick for full melt pool. Scent filled half the house. Not the slightest hint of soot. No wasted wax at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebleo Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 (edited) Thanks @TallTayl yes, no neck. 3” wide 4” tall The good news is I have plenty of 12 and 14. I put in a 9 earlier today and let it burn for 4 hours. The throw was exponentially better than with the other wick series I’ve tried. It burned to maybe 80% melt pool in that time. Looks like I’m on the right track, thanks to you, with this wick series. Edited July 26, 2019 by Sebleo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 If you need any 11’s let me know - I have 5000 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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