What can I add to my wax to make it need a bigger wick?

[Forrest]

I’m not sure that is a good way to ask my question, but that is what I need to do. I thought about adding some 464 soy, but that’s all I can think of. It there are any better ways to do this I would love to hear them.

[franu61]

I usually have to wick up when I blend a lot of scents together.  The heavier the scent the bigger the wick needed.

[TallTayl]

the first question is, "why?"

what are you trying to accomplish?

[Forrest]

37 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

the first question is, "why?"

what are you trying to accomplish?

I thought you might ask that. My thinking is this, the 11oz tureens are like two different candles, especially if you double wick them. The top half burns like you would expect for its diameter, but the bottom half burns much hotter. I can’t have different wicks, but I could use different waxes. Also I’m sort of bottomed out on my wicks. In my last test the WI-720s did well until they hit the widest part of the container, then they melted all the wax. The WI-715’s flames were so small it was hard to keep them lit. So if I do a double pour with a wax that can take the heat in the bottom half I think I can make this work. As I plan on inking the container I don’t think it would show much, so hopefully the only issue is having to do two pours.   

[Trappeur]

Forest, I don't get it.  So you say the wick you have chosen works good for the top 1/2.  Now this top 1/2 is much narrower.   So  why would you say the bottom is hotter.  The bottom is much wider from the middle down than the top so the wick I would think that works good for the top 1/2 should be too small for the bottom the way I see it so therefore you would need a bigger wick?????Right????  I see where you are going but to me it seems like you are saying it backwards.?  What do you mean when you say the bottom is hotter??  What's hotter?

 

Trappeur

Edited July 23, 2018 by Trappeur

[Kerven]

For soy, stearic acid or USA might work but they'll change burn characteristics and maybe throw... and, depending on how much is added, may cause some crystallization/frosting.

 

For paraffin... not sure. I don't work with it. The Candlemakers Store has C-15 hardener, universal additive (used like vybar), and vybar. I don't know how well stearic and paraffin would mix.

 

Edit: The C-15 hardener might be clear polyethelene luster crystals, which will harden, slow burning, and improve gloss. Might also improve color. Melting point is around 195F.

Edited July 23, 2018 by Kerven

[Forrest]

3 minutes ago, Trappeur said:

Forest, I don't get it.  So you say the wick you have chosen works good for the top 1/2.  Now this top 1/2 is much narrower.   So  why would you say the bottom is hotter.  The bottom is much wider from the middle down than the top so the wick I would think that works good for the top 1/2 should be too small for the bottom the way I see it so therefore you would need a bigger wick?????Right????  I see where you are going but to me it seems like you are saying it backwards.?  What do you mean when you say the bottom is hotter??  What's hotter?

 

Trappeur

It’s the air currents. The first time I tried to double wick that container I only filled it half way and when I lit the wicks the flames were sideways in a still room. I know it is the opposite of what you would expect, but I’ve tried a lot of wicks that burned great until the wax got about half way down, then they got hot and melted all the wax. With the WI-720s I had a nice melt pool going, but when it got half way down it went from 1/4inch to a full inch in an hour. The 22oz Tureens are taller and may not have this issue.

[TallTayl]

You could try some sort of a pillar wax in the bottom. The problem is going to be you don’t know how container wax and pillar wax are going to behave at the equator where they meet.

 

Or you can just change the wax all together in that container. Then you have different wick options. 

 

No matter what you do, your tureen container will always make you feel like Sisyphus pushing that rock up the hill only to have it roll back down.

[Sarah S]

@Forrest, I'm sorry I can't remember, which wax are you using? The 6006?

[Forrest]

45 minutes ago, Sarah S said:

@Forrest, I'm sorry I can't remember, which wax are you using? The 6006?

Yes 6006, that's why I'm thinking blending in some 454 would help without looking like two different waxes.

[Trappeur]

Air currents? hmmmm.....

 

I just read on CS that someone wicks the 8oz tureen with 2 eco 2's in your wax.  You have the 8oz you use right?  

 

Trappeur

[Forrest]

1 hour ago, Trappeur said:

Air currents? hmmmm.....

 

I just read on CS that someone wicks the 8oz tureen with 2 eco 2's in your wax.  You have the 8oz you use right?  

 

Trappeur

Did they say what wax they are using? I think I have tried ECO 2s. Of course my house is warm this time of year. Maybe I should wait until October to do more testing.

[Trappeur]

It was 6006. 

 

Have you tried premiers?

 

I just went to Lonestar to click on the jars that you use because ton's of people put up their questions and answers to the jars there and you get lots and lots of different answers and all the questions and answers are no longer there.  Wonder if it is because they just launched a new website.  Hmmm I have to place an order with them and I'll ask what happened.

 

You know I had a horrible time learning to wick that jar.  I walked away from it for over a year or so.  Maybe you should take a break and do the same thing?   Like TT said, maybe you need to go with another wax that's if you even want to.   Do you do any other jars besides the tureen?  I feel very very fortunate that I was able to combat my wicking issue....but I did overcome it.  It isn't an easy jar that is for sure.

I will say, I think double wicking is too much for that jar in the 8 or 11oz size.  I have some of the same size jars you use.  Later on today, I will put out the jars and see what sizes I used.  I never went with those jars to sell to stores as I thought they were just to small for me, and I did have some hang up on the sides but I couldn't do any better.   I'll snap a couple pictures.

 

I wouldn't stop testing till October just because of the temperature.

 

I just found some info here Craftserver in case you have never seen it. I found lots and lots of threads on wicking the tureens in 2006 and 2009.

 

Trappeur

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Sarah S]

4 hours ago, Forrest said:

Yes 6006, that's why I'm thinking blending in some 454 would help without looking like two different waxes.

 

Ok. Not to send you on a complete loop, but have you tried Candlewic's CBL129? It's similar to 6006, but I found it to be pretty firm.

Or if you're trying to stick with IGI, maybe try like 10% of one of their pillar waxes to raise the melt point.

I think Trapp has some good points too. Two wicks might just be too much for that jar.

[Forrest]

5 minutes ago, Sarah S said:

 

Ok. Not to send you on a complete loop, but have you tried Candlewic's CBL129? It's similar to 6006, but I found it to be pretty firm.

Or if you're trying to stick with IGI, maybe try like 10% of one of their pillar waxes to raise the melt point.

I think Trapp has some good points too. Two wicks might just be too much for that jar.

I've only used 464 and 6006, but I have a lot of 6006 because I was traveling past Flaming a couple of months ago and took the opportunity to save on shipping. A CD 8 works well as a single wick, but it depends on unmelted wax on the sides. I used a Premier 700 WI-720 that worked perfectly until the wax level got to the fattest part of the container, then it got too hot and the MP got deep in a hurry. I've tried a good number of wicks and it is always the same. A different wax isn't going to change the characteristics of the container. If I had ant sense at all I would give up, but nobody ever accused me of having good sense.   I'm going to try adding an extra 30% soy wax to the bottom half and see if that helps, if it doesn't I'll just stick to single wicking.

[Forrest]

3 hours ago, Trappeur said:

It was 6006. 

 

Have you tried premiers?

 

I just went to Lonestar to click on the jars that you use because ton's of people put up their questions and answers to the jars there and you get lots and lots of different answers and all the questions and answers are no longer there.  Wonder if it is because they just launched a new website.  Hmmm I have to place an order with them and I'll ask what happened.

 

You know I had a horrible time learning to wick that jar.  I walked away from it for over a year or so.  Maybe you should take a break and do the same thing?   Like TT said, maybe you need to go with another wax that's if you even want to.   Do you do any other jars besides the tureen?  I feel very very fortunate that I was able to combat my wicking issue....but I did overcome it.  It isn't an easy jar that is for sure.

I will say, I think double wicking is too much for that jar in the 8 or 11oz size.  I have some of the same size jars you use.  Later on today, I will put out the jars and see what sizes I used.  I never went with those jars to sell to stores as I thought they were just to small for me, and I did have some hang up on the sides but I couldn't do any better.   I'll snap a couple pictures.

 

I wouldn't stop testing till October just because of the temperature.

 

I just found some info here Craftserver in case you have never seen it. I found lots and lots of threads on wicking the tureens in 2006 and 2009.

 

Trappeur

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used the Premier 700 WI-720 for my last test and it was the best so far. I went to Etsy and found several people that are selling double wicked 11oz tureens with soy wax. I suspect they burn great up to a point, and then the melt pool gets deep. Tyler candle uses a similar container ant it has the same issue, I bought one recently and tested it. Maybe I'm being too picky, but I'm going to try this one last thing before giving up.

[Sarah S]

4 hours ago, Sarah S said:

 

Ok. Not to send you on a complete loop, but have you tried Candlewic's CBL129? It's similar to 6006, but I found it to be pretty firm.

Or if you're trying to stick with IGI, maybe try like 10% of one of their pillar waxes to raise the melt point.

I think Trapp has some good points too. Two wicks might just be too much for that jar.

 

I have to correct myself, the CBL 130 is their parasoy blend. ☺️

 

2 hours ago, Forrest said:

I've only used 464 and 6006, but I have a lot of 6006 because I was traveling past Flaming a couple of months ago and took the opportunity to save on shipping. A CD 8 works well as a single wick, but it depends on unmelted wax on the sides. I used a Premier 700 WI-720 that worked perfectly until the wax level got to the fattest part of the container, then it got too hot and the MP got deep in a hurry. I've tried a good number of wicks and it is always the same. A different wax isn't going to change the characteristics of the container. If I had ant sense at all I would give up, but nobody ever accused me of having good sense.   I'm going to try adding an extra 30% soy wax to the bottom half and see if that helps, if it doesn't I'll just stick to single wicking.

 

Well, me personally, I wouldn't get too stressed about leftover wax at the bottom. As a consumer, I wouldn't bat an eye and just assume that's how it's supposed to be. But nobody ever accused me of being a perfectionist. 😉😁

[Pam W]

On ‎7‎/‎23‎/‎2018 at 9:11 AM, TallTayl said:

the first question is, "why?"

what are you trying to accomplish?

As a newbie to candle making you may not be able to answer the above question.  When I started my journey into candle making way back in 2005, I really didn't have a specific goal in mind other than to produce a pillar that I could get to burn properly.

Sometimes we can get so overwhelmed by the info at hand that we forget that we are a newbie to the craft....so many waxes, so many  wicks, etc, etc........

As a newbie that had NO idea what I was doing, I narrowed my experiments down to 2 waxes.....one for pillars and one for containers and totally forgot/ignored any info on other waxes.....I needed to master these waxes before moving on and/or considering other waxes.

All that said, being so into wanting to make some quality candles.....reading all the postings on results of the various waxes, I did learn that I needed to focus on ONE wax at a time

There are so many waxes on the market that we (as newbies) can get confused.........for me....I narrowed my choices for pillar waxes to 1274 and container candles to 4630..... I will learn to master these two waxes before I move onto other waxes........

BABY STEPS AND THE SAYING GOES.............................