Dorothy Mantooth Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I got a sample of 4630 to test. Boy does it feel weird, but I kinda liked it! I'm heeding the advice I've read from many and am starting with no FO. I'm testing in 8oz tins using zinc, CD, and HTP in various sizes based on wick charts. I see a cure time of 24 hrs for this wax. Is that enough time to test for wick only with this paraffin? I also had a few tins of the soy Ive been using (NW elite 200) that were already wicked with Eco. I haven't been sold on the Eco. I read some comments about pulling out a wick to test a differ wick. I was happy to find that it was really easy to pop out the wick and put a new one in. I didn't have to remedy anything. I just popped it in, trimmed, and started burning. I'm testing cd and htp in this soy. So far the flames are much more controlled than the ecos. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coconut Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 When I was making candles with 4630, I did not find it necessary to cure them. Smelled and burned the same whether I lit them the next day or next month. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Paraffin usually doesn't need more than 12-24 hours cure time, it's not as picky or persnickity as soy or other natural waxes can be. However, I personally do wait at least 3 days (usually longer) to test my candles, because I want it to be nice and solid and ready when I go to light it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah S Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I've been pouring Candlewic's CBL-125, which I understand from reading other posts is the same as IGI 4630. I love it, so easy to use, holds a ton of fragrance, makes a beautiful candle. Recently I've been adding a bit of soy to give it more of a "creamy" look when I choose not to color it, and I feel like it's also helped to slow down the burn time as well. I give it about 48 hours to cure, not for any particular reason other than I'm a soaper and I'm used to things needing a cure time, lol. I figure it can't hurt to let the fragrance settle into the wax a bit more, and it gives my nose a break from that fragrance so I can enjoy it more when I burn it. Not very scientific but it's been working for me so far! I use HTPs, they seem to work really well with this wax. I need to figure out the twisting the wick trick though, because they do get a serious lean going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jcandleattic Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I only twist my wicks in pillars and honestly have not noticed much of a difference in the lean. I only still do it in pillars because it's habit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorothy Mantooth Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 OK, I'm attaching photos of my first test with 4630, no FO, multiple wicks (description on photo), wicks trimmed to 1/4" before burn, and after a 4 hour burn. One photo is after the 4 hours before I blew out and one after blown out so you can better see melt pool. my initial thoughts is that zinc did not work. the entire time the flame was super poor. I like the CD's and HTP's. You might not be able to see in the photos, but HTP 62 and CD 10 made the best pool after 4 hours and they both burned well throughout. Let me know your thoughts. Do I continue 4 hour burns until wax is gone to determine which wick to go with for FO? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crafty1_AJ Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Lots of carbon beads with your zinc core, but I do love how they stand up straight and don't curl. Curling is not a big issue to me if the diameter of the candle is fairly wide, but I hate it on really small melt pools. But I'd trust your gut / observations. If the Z wicks had weak flames while burning, you're spot on to ditch that wick and go with another type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Most definitely continue the burn all the way to the end as tins get especially hot and burning to the end is really going to determine what wick to use as the further down you burn into the tin the melt pool is really going to get deep and fast too. do like the htp 62 and cd 10 like you said. The 83 and cd 12 look good to me too...but being this is the first burn, they will probably will wind up being too big for a candle with no fragrance in it...so you just never know...maybe these 2 will have to be your choice once you make up more candles with fragrance in them.... and then maybe not. And too these are all made with no fragrance so now your testing starts all over again once you put the fragrance oil in and now I'm sure there are going to be some major changes in wick sizes and you will probably wind up going with larger wicks....but who knows till you start your testing all over again. Great job and pictures. Please keep us posted with more pictures too. Trappeur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ajah Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 5 hours ago, Dorothy Mantooth said: OK, I'm attaching photos of my first test with 4630, no FO, multiple wicks (description on photo), wicks trimmed to 1/4" before burn, and after a 4 hour burn. One photo is after the 4 hours before I blew out and one after blown out so you can better see melt pool. my initial thoughts is that zinc did not work. the entire time the flame was super poor. I like the CD's and HTP's. You might not be able to see in the photos, but HTP 62 and CD 10 made the best pool after 4 hours and they both burned well throughout. Let me know your thoughts. Do I continue 4 hour burns until wax is gone to determine which wick to go with for FO? Hey it probably would be better if you test with fo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 I also think the HTP-62 may be the winner there. The zincs, from the photo, didn't seem to do so well, and the lean of the CD's seems so unpredictable -- for instance, the CD12 is centered, just as the others centered, but so far, it's forming an uneven melt pool. I don't think the HTP-41 is going to make it and the 83 may be bigger than needed. A great presentation ... thanks for sharing it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 By the third burn you will definitely see changes to the burn. I really dislike zinc because of the carbon balls. @ajah the quickest, least expensive way to wick test early on unscented. The fails can be easily remelted, filtered and reused. Then pick a scent to test. All burn differently. Some of mine get wicked down 2-3 sizes. Others up 2-3 sizes. Without a baseline of just the wax you spend many many many times more $ and time dialing it in. Another super important reason to learn your base wax is lot testing. Wax batches change between lot numbers. A fast test candle burn with wax from a new lot can save hundreds of $ and headaches. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dorothy Mantooth Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 This forum is so great! I'm finally trying 4630 with fragrance and I totally forgot about this post I made and all the great comments. Luckily I ended up choosing a couple wicks discussed in this post. Crossing my fingers I get one that tests well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah S Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 I think you are going to be really happy with the HT with this wax! It's crazy how much the FO affects the wicking, I had no idea it would be so complicated when I started this hobby (obsession). 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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