moonshine Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 12 minutes ago, Candybee said: I can confirm Moonshine makes a kickass soy candle. Her's burn the way a candle should with great scent throw, no soot buildup, and total consumption. Just wanted to add that CD wicks are designed as self trimming wicks that curl as they burn. The curl is built in for burn efficiency from the manufacturer. You don't need to do anything with them. However, I like others, found the curl to cause one side of the jar to overheat as it burned. That's why you will see recommendations to 'twist' the wick to keep it from curling. ?awwhh thanks Candy! And yep...twist them wicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldieMN Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 4 hours ago, Trappeur said: I was thinking the same exact thing about the jar being very sooty. Looks over wicked to me also. Trappeur Trappeur, If this was a power burn of, say 5 hours+, wouldn't there be soot on the jar? Not sure if it was; just wondering if one will get soot on power burns. Goldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Siren12 Posted February 8, 2017 Share Posted February 8, 2017 i just wanted to pop in and say that for that jar I have been using eco 10 with GB 444 wax ( i am even thinking that I may drop some scents down to eco 8s) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infertilemyrtle Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Thank you all! Seems like my next test will be the 8's & 10's and go from there. @Siren12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infertilemyrtle Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 I'm so sad ? The tester I let cure for 2 weeks has 0 hot throw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldieMN Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 57 minutes ago, infertilemyrtle said: I'm so sad ? The tester I let cure for 2 weeks has 0 hot throw I may have missed it, but what fragrance oil did you use? Goldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infertilemyrtle Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 @GoldieMN coffee scent from lonestar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 On 2/8/2017 at 0:23 PM, GoldieMN said: Is this the same Scent as the one you burned in the picture before cure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infertilemyrtle Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 @moonshine yes. I thought about melting down the wax and putting it with the eco 8 - I'm really hoping this large wick is causing the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 It could be, could you smell it at all with the larger wick? its C3 right? its going to be a hit and miss with many fragrances as well using a soy or veggie wax - they all don't play nice when you make some new batches search for fragrances that work with your wax, it's been years since I tried LS so I can't really say if that's a tough oil or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infertilemyrtle Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 @moonshine The cold throw was decadent but once lit I could only smell it if I was standing over the candle. I just ordered quite a few fragrances from lebermuth so hoping those give me something. Is there a way to test hot throw before waiting 2 weeks? I know that's optimal but if I test after let's say 5 days will it give me an idea if that fragrance will work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moonshine Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 Some will and some won't....I had almost ditched a couple fragrances recently burning at 5 days and they were very light or gave off fuel smell so I shelved them and after another week or more they are fabulous....so it all just depends- I have many that throw like the dickens in 4-5 days but once you become familiar with your wax and have done tons of testing if your not getting good throw at 2 weeks cure on oils I personally wouldn't bother with the oil again, you should get some throw within a week- and the longer cure is more for the burn really- you have to know how our candle is going to perform after 2 weeks- 2 months- a year and more I suggest testing oils proven to be winners in your wax while learning how to work with it it could be the wick also....maybe a different series will give you better throw but I'm just not real knowledgeable about C3....only used it very briefly and I think I used the CD and CDN series Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldieMN Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 On 2/8/2017 at 8:22 AM, Trappeur said: I do a lot of double and triple wicking as I do a lot of huge jars, crystal pieces that are 5 to 8" in diameter and really got to perfect large jars (I'm proud of myself in that area), lol...but that tureen was a bugger but one day I am going to get back to it again and try and succeed. @Trappeur and anyone else who wicks large containers: I just got some metal pails to work on spring projects. My son saw them and wants a candle poured in one. These things are 7" wide by 5" deep. Since this will take so much wax, I'd like to at least start with the proper number of wicks. Generally do you start with the "biggest" wick? I'm using 464, Premier wicks. Goldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldieMN Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Trying to get attachment loaded. . . Goldie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonstar Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Id pour hot water in them first to make sure they don't leak at the seams. Also, the larger one (shiny silver) looks as if it has a painted finish ??? Or this it how it reads on my screen anyhow. I wanted to make a candle in a tin once and when I tested it with pouring water in there, darn thing leaked Sorry, but I don't have any advise on wicking on such large diameters . Hopefully Trappeur sees this post, I remember her posting about a wide crock container she wicked for a candle, of course she nailed it, as always 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldieMN Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 @Moonstar Great idea! Hadn't thought about leaks. They are not painted at all. The one on the left was "hot dipped" by the manufacturer so it is kind of rough. Right now, I'm trying to get it grungier looking by soaking in MiracleGro. Goldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 I'm here now.........wow....you have some bigguns Goldie..... Ok, I think I can help you out here. Let me go run upstairs and measure the openings of my crystal jars and crock that I do and come back here and tell you what I use for big pieces. And yes, do first what Moonstar said....fill the buckets up with water and let them sit a few hours to see if they leak. Sometimes they won't leak right away and you won't notice it...but yes that is important. I can tell you this, they are going to have to be triple wicked. The big one on the right might even need 4 wicks... Goldie, what is the opening diameter of the top of each can and also the bottom diameter. I don't care about how tall it is. Just give me those sizes... Be right back. Trappeur 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldieMN Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 39 minutes ago, Trappeur said: Goldie, what is the opening diameter of the top of each can and also the bottom diameter. I don't care about how tall it is. Just give me those sizes... @Trappeur Right one is 7" across top, 6" across bottom. Left is 6" across top, 4 1/2" across bottom. Goldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Ok here are cd wick sizes I use for large crystal pieces and crocks: 3 1/2" to 3 3/4" diameter: 2 cd5 4 1/2" diameter: 3 cd6: 5" diameter: 3 cd6 5 1/4" diameter to 5 1/2" diameter: 3 cd7 6" diameter to 6 1/2" diameter: 3 cd8 Your 7" diameter tin I would go with 3 cd 8 wicks because they are tin and are not thick walled like my crystal and crocks and those tins are really going to get much hotter faster. Also it's going to take hours and hours to get a melt pool across the top. You better figure 5 to 6 hours depending of course on the oil too. I would let that tin burn that many hours and not blow it out to start off with as it will tunnel. When you get to testing big pieces those 4 hour increment burn hours won't apply to these big pieces Your 6" tin I would go with 3 cd7 And being that your going to pour a lot of wax into these tins, you might want to pour the wax, let it harden, then get skewers to make the holes to accept the wicks only So I wouldn't even attach the wick tabs and stickums till you test them. It's going to be a big job to test these things. Also I would place the wicks about 1 3/4" away from the outside edge..... Good luck and let us know how it works! Trappeur 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoldieMN Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 @Trappeur Thanks so much! You covered all my questions, even those I didn't ask. Goldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 On 2/8/2017 at 8:22 AM, Trappeur said: .... You know we see so many newbies who come here and have not 1 wax, but 2 or 3 waxes they are testing all at the same time so they can figure out what wax they want to go with. And also instead of working with just (1) jar to begin with they may have 2 or 3 jars they are testing with these 2 to 3 different waxes and it is just mind boggling to me when I see this. How in the world can they figure out what wax they want to stick with when if they are new to this hobby and really don't know much about how to even make a candle, no less start experimenting with all these things? They have nothing to compare to one another so how in the world can they make a choice? My suggestion is read and read and read and you will learn so much from the seasoned chandlers on the board here. There are so many here that have been at if for years that you learn the proper way to make a candle. You can learn so much from people here as they have been there and back. I would much rather learn from the ones who know what the heck they are doing then a book and you tube videos....be very very careful there....I can't begin to tell you some or 'MOST" of the videos I have seen make me shutter.....So many come here and ask the same darn questions, over and over and over and we try to help as best as we can and we all repeat, repeat, and repeat what we have been saying for years here on the board when if people would just take the time to read and learn and start experimenting themselves. This isn't a hobby that you can ask what wick do I use for this jar and have your answer. That question has way too many variables. I think so many who come here think they are going to ask a quick question, get a quick answer, then they go and do what was suggested and then they are in business next week! lol....It happens! I've seen it over and over. God help them....is all I have to say ... What a great post. I was busy with preparing for guests when it was posted, so I couldn't read it in detail and just now happened upon it to read it better. So true, so true!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 About those pails ... great advise given here regarding the wicking. I've got a thought though, which may be a good idea, or may not be, but I'm going to share it anyway. I think the reason I'm thinking this has to do with my history of making gel candles, such as seascapes using sand in the bottom, or also using colored sand. Anyway, I think I'd fill the bottom third of the pail with sand, then pour the candle into the top. I say this for a few reasons, one of them having to do with how the metal pail might perform when the multiple wicks reach the narrower part of the pail ... as Trappeur said, it's going to get very hot (those handles may get hot too). If you pour sand in the bottom, you could use a hard wax (paraffin) onto the sand (the sand would absorb some of the wax), pouring just above the top of the sand and allow it to harden; then pour your soy -- in this way the sand will not migrate into the soy, it will have a sturdy, heavy bottom, and the candle will go out at about a few inches from the bottom of the candle. Like I said, it may sound like a kooky idea, but it might also be a good one, I'm not sure. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdcharm Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Sorry ... that word was supposed to be *advice* ... anyway, what I wanted to add is that I've made oversized candles before with "false bottoms" using either colored sand and/or gravel in large glass containers ... it comes out looking rather interesting in glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trappeur Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Those candles sound lovely Birdcharm with the sand/gravel bottoms. Trappeur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infertilemyrtle Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Hoping one of these works! Now testing eco 8 & 10 in the 8 & 4 oz jars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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