Clear Black Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Im having a slight issue with the wax, GB 444, sticking to my wood wicks when I pour. Meaning, as they cool, they seperate from the wick slightly, leaving a small but noticable tunnel the length of the wick top-bottom. It doesnt matter really what temp I pour at seeing as its done this at a pour temp of 150*, 125* and 100* Should I be priming these wood wicks before I pour? Im using 2 wicks back to back in each candle. I can never seem to get one wick to stay lit, but two wicks seem to do just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I don't use your wax but I've used wood wicks. I found pouring the wax down the wick helped with those tunnels. I also do this with regular wicks now even though they are primed.Priming would probably help although I'd pour on the cool side if you prime the wood wicks. Do you stick the 2 wicks together with wax? If not, I'd probably try that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 I don't use your wax but I've used wood wicks. I found pouring the wax down the wick helped with those tunnels. I also do this with regular wicks now even though they are primed.Priming would probably help although I'd pour on the cool side if you prime the wood wicks. Do you stick the 2 wicks together with wax? If not, I'd probably try that as well.Question: What do you mean by pour the wax down the wick? When I pour I try to avoid hitting the wick at all cost. Dont ask me why, I am uber new to all this. Are you suggestion I pour the wax OVER the wick and let the wax enter the jar by running down the wick sorta? And to answer your question, I dont prime the 2 wicks or stick the together with wax at all. I just leave them as they are. Last batch I tried using some all natural glue to adhere them together. Its solvent free and it says you can eat it lol. I use very little, only a few drops to adhere in a few places. After 2 4 hr burns, I didnt see anything indicating the glue reacted in any way. i dont plan on using this in any future batches, I just wanted to test whether wax was pooling between the two wicks and causing my tunneling. I wonder with the wood being as dry as it is, if the wicks are soaking in or repelling the wax a bit as the candle cools. Hmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 I don't prime my WW before pouring, but it does not surprise me to see caverns around the wicks. This happens with traditional wicks too as the wax cools and shrinks. It may be as simple as a second pour or heat gun to level.You could play around with cooling rates to see if it helps. I notice with my ceramic pots that retain a lot of heat and cool very slowly that shrinkage is different than in tins that release heat quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kandlekrazy Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 A long time ago someone here told me to pour my wax down the wick as I was filling jars, I haven't had that tunneling problem since I started doing that. It certainly doesn't hurt to pour that way as long as your wicks are secured bothbottom and top so they don't move. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 A long time ago someone here told me to pour my wax down the wick as I was filling jars, I haven't had that tunneling problem since I started doing that. It certainly doesn't hurt to pour that way as long as your wicks are secured bothbottom and top so they don't move.will try this next batch. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crafters_playhouse Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Hello I am new to the forum and I use 444 /464 WAX and wood wicks only. I do two things when prepping my wicks. 1. I use a small amount of wax to adhere the wick and sustainer clip to the jar. 2. I soak the wick for just a few seconds in wax to give it a thin coating. 3. I pour slowly at a low temp. Usually around 125 or less just before the top skims over. I havre had separation only a few times. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Hello I am new to the forum and I use 444 /464 WAX and wood wicks only. I do two things when prepping my wicks. 1. I use a small amount of wax to adhere the wick and sustainer clip to the jar. 2. I soak the wick for just a few seconds in wax to give it a thin coating. 3. I pour slowly at a low temp. Usually around 125 or less just before the top skims over. I havre had separation only a few times. Hope that helps.Yes. ANYTHING helps when learning. I will try "priming" my next few wicks and see if that helps. Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 Hello I am new to the forum and I use 444 /464 WAX and wood wicks only. I do two things when prepping my wicks. 1. I use a small amount of wax to adhere the wick and sustainer clip to the jar. 2. I soak the wick for just a few seconds in wax to give it a thin coating. 3. I pour slowly at a low temp. Usually around 125 or less just before the top skims over. I havre had separation only a few times. Hope that helps.Just out of curiosity as an after thought. What wood wicks are you using and on what size jars? I get all mine from http://www.woodcandlewick.com Prices to me seem reasonable. Even at the lowest amount ordered (100) it comes out to roughly .11c per wick. And since I use (2) wicks sandwiched together I still only pay .22c/jar for my wick. Not bad to me but what the heck do I know? Are you using one wick or two in the same jar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crafters_playhouse Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I also use woodcandlewick.com to get my wicks. I do a double wick combo in a 10oz jar that has a 3" opening. I use the 1/2" Wick size in a double combo. For 444 & 464 I found that you get a nice pool after about 35min. In addition about 1/2" form the top of the candle will be completely liquid. It creates a good throw. I use to double up but I have opted to start using the thicker wick from wood candle wick and I no longer double up per sustainer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OldGlory Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Wick stickers also work with the wood wick clips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 29, 2015 Author Share Posted December 29, 2015 I also use woodcandlewick.com to get my wicks. I do a double wick combo in a 10oz jar that has a 3" opening. I use the 1/2" Wick size in a double combo. For 444 & 464 I found that you get a nice pool after about 35min. In addition about 1/2" form the top of the candle will be completely liquid. It creates a good throw. I use to double up but I have opted to start using the thicker wick from wood candle wick and I no longer double up per sustainerso you can get the .030 wick to stay lit? Whenever I have put ANY single wick from them in a single sustainer as soon as I light the wick it fizzles itself out. If I add a second wick, no issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crafters_playhouse Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 I can get it to stay light. I do however, leave the wick extra long and maybe that's not the right way. But I tell me customers to not trim the wick for first burn. So far no issues. But I could be going about this wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 (edited) I can get it to stay light. I do however, leave the wick extra long and maybe that's not the right way. But I tell me customers to not trim the wick for first burn. So far no issues. But I could be going about this wrong.There may be your problem. It should be no more than 1/4 inch above the wax when lighting. The wood cannot wick up any unmelted wax to continue the burn.My wick keeps going out. What do I do? There are many reasons why a wick will not stay lit. The following factors may cause a wooden wick to self - extinguish. Too small of a wick for the candle diameter causing tunneling (a funnel like appearance of your wax pool) Clogged wick (too many additives for the size wick causing a natural clogging of the capillary activity needed to sustain a proper burn. The wick is too far above the wax surface when the initial lighting is performed. (We recommend the wick protrude no farther than ¼ inch above the wax during the initial lighting of the candle. Solutions: Edited December 29, 2015 by TallTayl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crafters_playhouse Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 There may be your problem. It should be no more than 1/4 inch above the wax when lighting. The wood cannot wick up any unmelted wax to continue the burn. Thanks for the info, but i don't have an issue with my wicks staying light. I was explaining to clear Black how i keep them light without doubling up. in an earlier thread i mentioned that i do soak my wick in Wax prior to setting in the candle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clear Black Posted December 31, 2015 Author Share Posted December 31, 2015 Thanks for the info, but i don't have an issue with my wicks staying light. I was explaining to clear Black how i keep them light without doubling up. in an earlier thread i mentioned that i do soak my wick in Wax prior to setting in the candle.Just got my shipment in today of the thicker .030 Original Crackling wick. I will run some tests to see if I can keep that single wick lit. It would literally cut my wick expense in half if i could. Will be interesting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shicks Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Just got my shipment in today of the thicker .030 Original Crackling wick. I will run some tests to see if I can keep that single wick lit. It would literally cut my wick expense in half if i could. Will be interesting.I can't wait to see what your results are I was testing in a 3.25 container and had hard time keeping wicks lit and getting full melt pool when I doubled wicks it burned way too hot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barbara AL Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Shicks I use the 5/8 wood wick in the .30 thickness for a 3 1/4 jar in the original wick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KB12 Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Clear Black, what were your results with the single wick? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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