SteveinPA

It's possible for wax to crack if it's cold enough and maybe get moisture in it. If the temperature changes fast enough, condensation will form. Might be best to store your wax and wicks in sealed containers.

I used some Peak Wild Raspberry in J223 and IGI6006, and I feel it's a true raspberry scent. It has good scent throw at 6%. Peak Sweet Pea is a winner too. Haven't tried any pear scents yet.

The cold temperatures could effect your Fo's-they might get crystals in them or thicken up, and they'll be difficult to get mixed with the wax. If that happens, try putting the bottles in hot water for a while and they'll be ok to use. One solution would be to keep your scents in a tray with a carrying handle and take them in the house over night. Might be a pain, but so could warming the bottles. Hope this helps.

The problem might be the amount of FO you're using. Try cutting back to 1 oz./lb. I've made some a while ago with J223 and used 44z or 51z wicks (depending on how heavy the FO was), and they burned great.

I agree. For a creamy look, you can add Vybar 103. I made some votives with Vybar 103 added and they turned out very smooth and creamy looking.

Thanks I really like the 4045H-pillars don't seem to bulge at the top like they do with 1343, and it holds more scent. As far as the "thang", I'm hoping to apply for a patent soon. Then they will officially be for sale.

Could the soot be coming from outside? Any industrial facilities in the area? The air quality in some places can be very poor. Even though the windows are closed, some outside air will get past them. Might be something to check into. I live in a relatively clean area and I've noticed black stuff on my car (besides the bird crap), especially if its been parked here for a while.

Thank you. I hope the person who ordered them like that shade of red. She wanted them deep red, and that's what I came up with. Yes, they were done by draping the layers. Poured a little in the mold, tilted and swirled it a few times, and repeated until it was full. I like doing them this way- some of the line patterns turn out pretty cool.

Oh, you crack me up! I don't see any reason it wouldn't work to remove rust from steel molds. We use it at work to remove rust from the inside of fuel tanks. See, even though I only have 108 posts, it might be that I actually do know something after all. I usually keep to myself. Hmmm- that acid removes blood stains and DNA. That info could come in handy someday. LOL.

Sorry to hear that. Sounds like you have a real mess. One thing that might work to clean the dye from the concrete is Muriatic acid- aka Hydrochloric acid. It's sold in swimming pool supply places and hardware stores. I use it to clean rust off of steel and scale buildup off cast aluminum parts. It also may be written on the bottle that it can be used to clean concrete. It was on the one I used to have. It can be very dangerous to use, but with the proper precautions you'll be OK. Make sure to wear rubber gloves and eye protection, dilute it with water, don't breathe the fumes, and read the instructions on the label. Mix it in a plastic bucket- it will dissolve aluminum in a matter of seconds if the acid/water ratio is strong enough. Scared yet? It's not that bad if you're careful. Baking soda will neutralize it when your finished.

A year or so ago, someone recommended that I do this. I was having problems with air bubbles rising to the surface as the votive started to set up. The bubbles were coming from under the wick pin. Some didn't make it to the top- I could see the marks on the surface of the finished votive and they weren't pinholes. Pouring hotter or cooler and heating the molds didn't help. I was trying to help based on my experience with what Asher was describing.

The later you do a repour, the less chance of them forming. At least that's what I've found. I'm sure someone will come along and contradict what I've said. It wouldn't be the first time. I'm just telling you what works for me.

Great mottling, and I love the color.

Neither-they're kind of rustic I guess. LOL. Sherie, are you having fun playing with your "thang"? That didn't sound too good! Thanks everybody.

Of course I've been testing. LOL . My apartment has been smelling great for quite a while. Switched to 4045H from 1343 several months ago and haven't found much of a difference in wicking requirements. dcroome, I'm in Lancaster Co.

LMAO! Luckily, I haven't made any major messes- yet. Now, watch me knock over a bottle of dye next time I'm messing with wax!

These are the first candles I've sold- somebody ordered them in these colors and style. I didn't bother to take pictures of the other ones- they were just plain pillars. I gave a pillar to Joy's neighbor a while ago, and she thought she should take some to work and sell them for me. I finally agreed. She sold one of the samples and got orders for five on the first day. Left to right: Warm Apple Pie, Lilac, and Grandma's Kitchen. She wanted two of them colored deep red-hope this is what she had in mind. All are made with 4045H.

I haven't noticed any dye odor once it's mixed with wax unless I make one unscented with alot of dye. Even then, it's not too noticeable.

Although I haven't ordered from them often, I was very satisfied with their service, products, and shipping charges. I e-mailed them several times with questions, and got replies very quickly. I switched from 1343 to 4045H. I noticed the price of the 4045H went up again- but then again, what hasn't gone up in price.

I should have clarified about the "burping". My wick pins have a convex base and they trap air under them. The base is shaped somewhat like this- ^ Hey, I tried! LOL

I tilt the wick pin to the side after pouring to "burp" out the air bubble. The ring left over on the bottom usually breaks off easily, but if it doesn't, I trim it off with a sharp knife. Hope this helps.

Was this the one? http://www.colormatters.com/colortheory.html Here's another one. http://www.gellycandle.com/ColorChart.html Hope this helps.

If you use a Presto Pot, you could put it in and melt it before adding wax. That's what I do with clear crystals.

Great job! They're all beautiful. I agree with Tucker- the brown ones are my favorite too.

A few strong ones that I can think of are Amish Harvest and Rose Bouquet.