Vicky_CO

Well sometimes if you are using the small oyster cup or smaller inner glass then yes but if it is deeper than that the answer is no.

Your mixing temperature is fine as long as you are between the temperatures you stated. I personally always hated the candy thermometer went digital years ago but that is because I have a bad habit about breaking those lol. When are you burning for the first time? the next day or are you waiting a week?

I wish I could help you but I don't do my shipping that way. Hopefuly someone can help.

Same here I have always been able to get rich dark colors.

I did no they don't have one I ran through my normal sources and now was seeing if anyone here had seen one.

Well just because you don't like my reason doesn't make it invalid. I have personal experience of why it is a very valid agruement. I started with a soy/botanicals I loved that blend that was made me fall in love with soy candles in the first place. But then a few years ago the soy wax industry lost the use of cottonseed they didn't bother about telling anyone. All the sudden things that had worked for us for so long was no longer working. Some of us had years worth of testing in to those blends and where then in trouble as our stuff was not working. I made the decision then to create my own blend. I have been happy with that decision that is why when the blends started showing up again about 6 months later I never went back to them.

Does any one have an idea where I can get one?

I think the main point being you know exactly what is in it so you are more knowledgable about your own candles. Also how many times have we seen on here and other board where a manufaturer has changed the blend then everything you had tested is out the window because you have to start over. I personaly do it for that reason. But I am sure a few will come up with more reasons.

I understand you are wanting to keep your cost down and the ease of her being close is just to good to pass up. Pouring temp will not effect the scent throw. Mixing temp does though. Have you had someone else burn your candles? Are they getting the same pour scent throw? Have you thought about changing the room you burn them in you may be having to many drafts? Is it possible that you have candle nose? Sorry for so many questions but I want to see what is happening first before I start to tell you to add things for a better throw.

The reason you are striving for 3 to 4 hours is not for the scent throw, it is to get a good burn. You should be getting a good scent throw long before the 3rd to 4th hour. Now think about it this way the average person get home from work about 5:30 to 6:00 you start dinner between 6 and 7 you light your candle but you put them out between 10 and 11 so the average person is only burning for 3 to 4 hour. So that is a good reason for your candle to reach full melt pool in that time. This is what I strive for in scent throw I want a nice throw in about an hour anything longer than that is no go as far as I am concerned. But at the same time I don't expect it to fill my entire house in an hour either I want to be able to walk with in 5 to 10 feet of that candle and be able to smell it, at the 4 hour point it had better have fill the entire room and moved into other rooms in my home. As far as how long a candle should last I have never cared about that so do not measure it. I care about getting a good burn with a great scent throw. I think way to much importance is placed on how many burn hour you will get. That is just my opinion. Everyone asked for different thing out of their candles that s another reason for not only testing but why not everyone will have the same results. What you think is a wonderful throw and a great burn I may disagree and think it is to weak of a throw or vice versa. Here is something else you might want to try make what you consider your best candle and then send it to a more experience candle maker and let them test it for you to see what their opinion is. After they burn it they will be able to give you some helpful advice.

Thank You Marge for your input. I didn't have any intentions of making them but I think your idea is great. I am glad to find out you are part of our board.

If you are going to use Mals you need this site it explains a lot and makes it much easier. http://www.wsdh.net/mals/

First thing I feel like I am talking to my sister her name is Veronica. Now back to wax. I know I am going back to basics but at lot of time if you take it back to the beginning problems are some times solved. Your wicking seems right for that jar and FO load now let look at how you are mixing your scent. What temp are you mixing at? I like to mix my FOs at about 165 to 170 even if I don't pour till around 100. Are you adding anything to the wax right now or is just straight EL?

No I have always like my ecosoya PB for votives and tarts. I can get that even closer Peak carries it.

Well she would not tell me it was the exact same that would have been bad business on her part but I ran it through some quick tests last year and everything preformed exactly the same. Fortunately I was only needing to create a lot of candles in 5 FOs so I was able to complete the order I had and since then I have retested all of my FO and Jars and everything stayed the same. BCS is much closer to me so I save on shipping so instead of going back to KY pure soy I stayed with ez-soy.

Ez-soy and KY puresoy are the same soy. I found that out last year when I need a lot of wax and KY could not provide it so she sent me to ez soy and informed me it was the closest to her pure soy.

Yep it is something with the wick. You might even be able to get away with a size smaller wick rather than change the kind of wick you are using. I would play with the wick sizing first and then if that doesn't work change wicks altogether in that FO.

Does it do the same thing in tarts?

You might have to change your cinnamon FO I have run in to the same problem with some coffee FOs they end up smelling like burnt coffee. I think they are FO that may be made with to much of some ingredient that can not take the heat so gives a burnt smell.

Well first Joy wax is a soy with paraffin added I have heard wonderful things about that wax. You might just want to try adding a bit of paraffin or beeswax to you EL and see if that helps. How much FO are you adding? What kind of wicking for what jar? Those might also be things you need to look in to.

The really good thing about soy is that it is great at playing catch up. Even with putting it out before a full melt pool sooner or later it will catch up as long as it is wicked properly in the first place. With Paraffin you are really looking for a different kind of melt pool.

Yes that is what I was talking about but I don't know of a single supplier that sells any of the new stuff yet. Yes GF manufature KY's puresoy and the 125, ez-soy from BCN. You will find they do most of the plain soys for most of the smaller candle supply places. One of the reason is they offer a good product at a reasonable price.

The first site is a manufacturer with a 6 palette minimum GW444 GW449 GW423 are the new soy waxes coming out but at present I don't know of any suppliers that have them also the info on the web site is pretty limited. I know GF is getting more seroius about there candle waxes where as before it was just a kind of side line. Now as you can see they have a person just for the candle waxes now that is also pretty recent addition. As far as the rest most of the small candle companies like mill creek , Ky and a few other along with ez-soy come from them.

Wow I was thinking about this same thing the other day I have a ton of `1/2 to 1 oz samples.

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