jeanie353

There must be varying levels of how hot the non-temp controlled ones get. There isn't any way I'd use either I've had near newspaper after even a quick shot. They take a few seconds to get heated up and once they do/did, even a quick shot would matter.

Don't get a contractor type one. They get extremely hot. A cheapie from Home Depot or Menards would be plenty good. Walmart may carry them. They get very hot also but are manageable if care is taken. This contractor one getting me through until I get to the store is barely manageable. I set the jars on a heat safe glass cutting board since I sometimes see flaws near the bottom I want to quickly blast.

I have them in assorted sizes/shapes hanging on the soffit thing in the kitchen. A couple times a year I take them down, put them in a tub filled with soap water. Let them soak several hours, rinse with shower head and run them outside to dry. With the possibility of mold, I wonder if you could put a little bleach in there? I've not tried it but I'm thinking a little shouldn't discolor and may be enough to kill it. HTH

I just last week went through wick testing my parasoy with CD wicks. A friend who uses them helped me out. I was using a CD 12 and had mushrooms yet the CD 10 wasn't quite right either. She told me to try a CD 8 and "as crazy as it may sound try a CD 14". Sure enough....the CD 14 did not mushroom and the ROC was lower than the CD 12. It was explained to me the larger size burned more efficient. Unfortunately, as it turns out I won't be using any CD wick on the parasoy blend I use. While the larger size burned better it wasn't acceptable. I do know many people really like them. They just didn't work for me in my wax. HTH

I get it....so it is specifically IGI that you use. I have only worked with one 50-lb bag so far which was from CS, purchased before they stopped selling it so I'm a little green yet when it comes to palm and the various manufacturers. Thanks for the info.

It may be done somewhat on the order of how Enchanted Lights soy pellets can be scented and dyed. I tried it once. They took the scent pretty good but the color was light. I mixed fragrance with some liquid dye in a cup, then poured it in a baggie and just kept mushing it around a couple times a day until it all absorbed. Once that happened, I poured them on wax paper to dry. There is a sight that tells how to make these which is where I found it some time back where you could get the measurements of FO/amount of soy beads/flakes. I don't remember the site but it would probably come up in a Google search. I think it was Southern something...and they sell Enchanted Lights soy products. Hope that helps.

Interesting how each chandler may have a different way of finding techniques that work for them. http://www.yinsen.net/file/wax/datasheet/Vybar%20Polymer.pdf

Possibly he will share that with us. I got the impression he was in the southwestern part of the US.

They are all really pretty but I'm especially drawn to the white/red/black ones. Going to have to try to figure that technique out. Very nice Scented.

I tried C-3 so long ago I can't remember the throw. I can say most containers I've used produce some nice smelling tarts at regular container usage amounts. I thought it might be because it was softer. Not sure if that makes a difference. I put them in polypro bags with a twistie tie and toss in the cabinet saving the right-way-made tarts for customers/family/friends.

The two previous posters already addressed the container wax part so I won't repeat. So what you are seeking is a single pour votive/tart wax in paraffin? I have found on clamshells, even though the wax would require a re-pour on a votive, it may not on a clamshell or tart. It may show a tiny bit of indention but not bad. It depends how smooth and opaque you want the clamshell tops to be. What I personally do to get a votive/tart paraffin blend to work without the need for a re-pour on both clamshell and tart is to pour a little cooler than usual. I don't use a thermometer anymore for my pour temps (I do on everything else) but what I would do is heat to 190, pour into pour pot, add pre-warmed FO, stir and let it sit a couple minutes. Then pour the clamshells and individual tarts. You can also combine container wax with votive/tart wax to try to eliminate the double pour issue. I have used a 75:25 ratio (tart/votive:container). If you would like double duty wax for containers, tart and votive making, there are a couple out there that I am aware of.

I had good luck in votive size with both zinc and LX. That was also on its own, nothing mixed in. However, when I mixed in container wax to try to do away with a second pour (or reduce the depth of it), the wicking changed drastically...in my case. Still haven't gotten them all figured out. On its own, it was a breeze to wick tho'. Have fun

Oh nooo...oops..lol

That is a really great idea. Only thing you may want to watch is that some plastics will pull the scent. Polypropylene (polypro) will not. I heard there is one (possibly more) brand of baggie on the market made of polypro. I use generic ones so I don't have any here to check out brands for you. I just buy them from candle supply places when I need to place an order for other things.

There is a whitener out there that is said not to clog wicks. Now if I can only remember which supplier carries it, I will come back and post. For some reason The Candlemakers Store comes to mind.

Does it tell you anywhere on the pkg. what percentage of FO this particular wax will hold? Straight paraffins are lower but with the blends many will take .75 to 1 oz pp or more. Whether your wax is a straight paraffin or not, and what this wax will hold percentage wise will determine whether or not the amount of FO had something to do with it. There is a lot of great advice in posts ahead of mine so I won't repeat any...well, ok...the temp you add the FO at is important as is the amount of dye. I think this was suggested without my going back to read all the posts but try adding FO at 185 with a small amount of dye and you should have much better results. We were all in your shoes at one point or another as new to this hobby/business. It takes a whole lot of time, research and mistakes to learn. Hang in there

Sometimes a wick burns too hot even without giving too large MP and causes fragrance to burn off. Personally, I don't use RRD wicks since I find they torch. Others may chime in on success with them.

I do the same except pour tarts for my own use.

Something tells me Genwax is going to have a surge in Status jar sales Just want to say I also love the jar and you have a very nice candle going on there.

It appears to be a type of feathering palm or no? I love the coloring on the middle one. The texture shows up so nicely.

Yes, we really do need to add brownies to that statement....if what I'm thinking you are sayin'.......

I sure do like those. Unique with a touch of class. Very nice.

Ravens....are you getting mushrooms with the zincs if they are kept trimmed in 6006? If the CDs I'm working on now don't make it, I am going to have to use a different wick on certain scents. I'm working with a 50/50 parasoy blend similar to 6006. I tried LX and with my wax/fragrances they aren't working at all. They burn very nice yet I smell a lot of wax and not much scent.

In re-reading my post above, I need to rephrase what I said...I surely don't want any fires, blown out microwaves or anything from someone using a technique I use that isn't fool proof safe. While it has worked fine for me, I would highly suggest not to use this method since there is evidence of it causing a fire and damaging a microwave. There are safer alternatives to re-melt wax where a wick tab is still inside the container.

The entire post is about The Candlemakers Store and who they dropship for. Initially I spelled it out, after I used TCS. TCS is used for Tennessee Candle Supply, The Candlemakers Store, The Candle Source....that is all the comes to mind at the moment.