burnt_fingers

Thank you very much!

I wash my containers in the dishwasher with just hot water and 2 cups of vinegar. I use a Pyrex 2 cup measuring cup. The vinegar cuts the oils and residues on the containers and an added bonus removes the mineral build-up in your machine.

Thank you!

It's been a long while since my daughter and I have made candles (or visited this forum) and we need some supplies. Seems Peak in CO is no more??? Does anyone here know of suppliers in or near California that they found to be a great source for candle making supplies? We need wax and scents at the moment. Thank you.

I have used the advise from CandleScience that you may find helpful. "Dye Chips work well for lighter, more pastel shades in soy and light to medium shades in most paraffin. Dye Blocks are better for darker, vibrant colors in soy (especially red, greens, and blues). They can also be used to easily color large batches of paraffin wax. Liquid Dyes will produce lighter, pastel shades in soy and light to dark shades in paraffin. These are also great for mixing to create custom colors. As always, we recommend making a test sample of colored wax to be sure you're getting the color you desire."

To answer the OP, I use paraffin (and beeswax). I started with paraffin when I was a kid in the 60s, but about 8 years ago I gave soy a try off and on for a few years. Soy just doesn't do it for me. Scent throw cold or hot has been disappointing. I know others have had excellent results with soy - just not me. Even my wife prefers paraffin candles over soy.

It's been a while since I last been on the bb. Hope everyone is well. What about dyes or color chips? If you go with liquid dye be sure to get a few of the glass eye droppers or caps Peak sells. Peak is a great supplier. I have been using them for years and have always been very pleased with their products and service. Candlewic is another fine supplier. Before I forget, welcome aboard!

I have used several makes of glue dots and from time to time I will have a failure. I generally clean all my containers with hot soapy water followed by a hot water rinse, a white vinegar rinse and finally a hot water rinse. I let air dry and when the time comes warm the container with a heat gun just before adhering the tab to the bottom. This has significantly reduced my failure rate to a few containers a year. How long does it take permatex to dry before you can pour your wax?

The internet is full of bad and misleading info. You need to do your research and not rely on a single source.

Being on the left coast I find Peak Candles to have both good prices on wax and shipping rates. Peak regularly sends customers emails for shipping discounts.

I have several 4# and 2# pouring pitchers. I find most of the time I like using the 2# pitcher as it is easier to work with.

I use a dixie cup. Place on scale, zero out then add FO to desired amount. After I am done pouring the measured FO into the wax I toss the dixie cup.

It may be an issue if you are hypersensitive, but from the little that is released into the air I doubt very much it is an issue for all but a few.

With my luck I'd get caught. I ended up using the heat gun. Went pretty quickly

The old toaster oven I use for cleaning molds finally gave up the ghost. I thought about using the oven, but my wife won't hear of it since it is a brand new. I have 2 dozen votive and 4 pillar molds to melt off the wax. I hate the idea of using a heat gun and heating and wiping down each one individually. Any thoughts on how I can speed up the process? Yes I could go out and get another toaster oven, but I won't have time until Sunday if I do.