TallTayl

Absolutely yes. Preservative in addition to regular heat & hold and adherence to GMP.

Did your formula have a lot of OO? My first attempt took a lot longer than most - mostly i believe because I made it all OO. You could try adding a % or 2 at a time of more oil to see if that helps SAp any remaining free KOH.

From a physics perspective, the particles being blended during candlemaking are of different molecular weights. The stirring helps to create a homogenous blend (an emulsified product if you will) of those particles so they remain in suspension throughout the entire cool down during crystal development of the candle. This is another reason why many people have developed a process of stirring between pours when making many candles in a session. Have you ever noticed how some heavier fragrances tend to settle out or are otherwise difficult to blend at 'normal' temperatures? For instance, Candy Corn remains pooled toward the bottom of the pour pot at the wax manufacturer's mix temp of 180 for the waxes I use. It is an easy oil to notice the issues because of the color. How many FO's do not have a noticeable color against molten wax? Mixing vigorously for several minutes helps to emulsify those 'blobs' of oil that otherwise would settle to the bottom of the container candle (which would result in a potentially very dangerous candle toward the end of the burn). Just because it is not easily visible to the eye does not mean the larger blobs aren't there. Color may look blended because of the similarity of particulates that comprise the media. Especially true if using wax chips - wax blends with and suspends wax better than wax to oil. If one should ever have a candle that is in question for causing a fire in a customer's home your insurance provider will assuredly investigate your production methods. Ignoring manufacturer's published directions because a couple of chemistry classes made you think it was ok will provide absolutely no protection against liability. IMO physics trumps chemistry in the logic behind candle making. (I am a chemist with a physics background BTW).

For those who mix lye in glass containers, may I suggest you switch to plastic? Over time glass becomes etched and can fail at the wrong time. By fail, I mean shatter, spilling caustic lye solution all over you and your surroundings. Instead, a rubbermaid material type of pitcher, not the rigid plastic that becomes brittle over time, is far safer. If you have a nice fitting lid all the better to prevent spills. When mixing the lye with the liquid of your choice, it's often safer to mix in a sink. If a spill or volcano does occur you can wash it down the drain quickly and safely. To avoid fumes, just do not lean over the sink as you pour the lye into the water. The fumes disperse fairly quickly. When mixing outside, you risk spilling, tripping, etc. which is far. messier to clean than necessary. Have fun. As others have already said, don't fear the lye. Just use good common sense when handling it. Eye protection is a must, not a should. I choose to wear a mask in addition to gloves and eye protection. It protects what's left of my sense of smell from the sensory assault when working with EO's and FO's (I do this when making candles and such too)

So THAT'S been my problem all along. All of my girls face WEST! Boy will they ever be ticked at me when I turn them to face the container candle Goddess.

for just candles, or B&B too? Calabrian Bergamot & violet Apple Jack & Peel (morphs in CP soap but awesome in everything else) Bamboo Sugarcane Lemon Verbena Gap Earth Corn Husk (surprised me actually) Falling Leaves (good as a blender too) Amber Romance (great with added vanilla)

Have you tried to re-render or 'wash' the lard to remove the resistant smell? Just melt it in a large pan of water with some salt. Simmer gently for a few minutes. Chill it. Remove the white disk of cleaned lard that hardens. Repeat if necessary.

I love pumice in my salt bars for foot scrubbing soap. I use both pumice and sea salt in them and mold in individual molds. It really works off the rough parts making feet that are lovely in flip flops. The longer my salt soaps cure the better they seem to get. after about 6 months they're divine. I add coconut milk to mine for a little more lotiony lather.

Are you trying for an emulsified scrub? They're my favorite since they don't leave you 'shiny' and add the the wow factor for customers. The difference between the E-wax and BTMS is the after feel. e-Wax can leave more of a glossy feel, while BTMS leaves a more powdery feel. Both E-wax and BTMS are needed if you decide to ever try making lotions. BTMS is a workhorse in my formulary, finding its way into hair conditioner, shampoo, lotion, scrub... I buy it by the drum. :smiley2:

Try here: herbalcom.com.

This was my thought - get them early in case there's a problem.

Soapers Choice still stocks both 76 and 92 degree. http://www.soaperschoice.com

@Jeana: When using OO from Soapers Choice (either Type A or Pomace) it's hard very quickly - almost too hard to cut after a couple of days. To help achieve that I a) soap it kind of hot with smoking hot lye in warm OO and water discount (usually 40-44% lye solution). The only problems I've had with Castile were when the OO was not purely OO. Even though the label did not specifically indicate it was blended. For instance, Bertolli never firmed up right and turned a rusty color within a month (not just DOS, but whole scale oxidation). It was slimy to the touch even when completely dry and had a slightly funky aroma. I kept some for more than a year and it was still spongy to the touch after all that time. I suspect canola or soy in the adulterated oil.

I wonder if your Olive Oil was pure... It's not uncommon for many brands of Olive Oil to be adulterated with other oils, like canola, which would help explain the odd feel and behavior of the finished bar. My true OO soaps are hard as bricks and tend to have far less condensation even at outdoor markets where the humidity (Chicagoland) can be so high you need gills to breathe.

Where to start.... Pink Sugar (I don't care what anyone else says, TSW has the best, most complex hands down.) Tonic (temporarily discontinued while reformulating) Blue Sugar (totally blooms in CP) Satsuma Guava London Lemon Curd These are off the top of my head.

Cranberry Apple Marmalade is my all time fave for soy. Simply awesome in everything I've tried (soap, lotion, wax melts, candles, room spray).

Here's a blog post I did about a triple log mold made for about $5 that has paid for itself many, many times over. http://doingisbelieving.blogspot.com/2010/12/diy-reusable-liner-soap-molds.html

Sure sounds like evaporation combined with cutting thickness/thinness. Do you use full liquid for your lye solution?

Mine are all in little "really useful boxes". It's so much easier to find and use them this way.

I agree with others about the regional rate boxes. They have saved my customers a good chunk of change. The sizes are decent for most things. Also check Uline for boxes. They stock hundreds - if not thousands - of sizes. I have a mix of Uline and USPS depending on the items being shipped and the amount of extra security the items require for safe transit. ITA that shipping is the most difficult part. My shopping cart usually overestimates shipping charges.My policy is to refund overages of more than $1.

I've never had to gel in the oven. it gets pretty hot all by itself once the salt is added. If you're not sure, a blanket may help give peace of mind. I have to cut within about 4 hours of pouring into the mold.

What type of salt did you use? Coarse Sea Salt works well. You'll want to avoid epsom salts.

I am swooning over AH/RE's Falling Leaves right now. It doesn't smell like the fruits your OP describes though. I've blended it with Mediterranean Fig from Elements and sit huffing it shamelessly.

Oy! That's a LOT of suppliers. I've pared down to about 10 regular suppliers, only three or four regulars for fragrances. The supplier had to have some pretty stellar stuff to make the list. It was hard choosing which to drop, but in the end it saves a lot of time and $.

Have you checked Soapers Choice? It's been the most reasonable at $80.50 per 50lb pail (aside from restaurant supply stores). I asked about drum pricing since I live within 60 miles of them and learned it wouldn't save anything. Add freight on to the drum pricing, then co-op fees and shipping and you're higher on per lb prices.