TallTayl

I wouldn't be adding things like goat milk or water based ingredients to a base of any kind. Anything you add to a base is unlikely to be preserved well enough, since the base, unless specifically stated that you can add such additives, is not designed for that. Heating a base beyond the manufacturer's recommendations will also likely shorten the life of, or even totally negate the preservation system formulated into the base. Such microbial activity may not be immediately evident to the naked eye. You can buy goat milk bases that have been prepared properly to resist microbial and fungal growth. Making liquid soaps isn't all that difficult once you understand the chemistry and process of soap making. Take your time and learn one process at a time and the rest will come in time.

A syndet typically is formulated to a much lower pH than soap. they are typically formulated to provide very gentle cleansing action using surfactants and leave the hair cuticle smooth, soft and shiny. Soap, with a cured pH at somewhere around 9-10, will raise the cuticle causing the hair shaft to tangle, snarl and leave it vulnerable to breakage. It can also remove color deposited from chemical color treatments since the molecules of color are simply suspended between the chemically raised cells of hair cuticle. Use of soap often requires an acid rinse to return the cuticle to its prior non-raised state. Personally, I strongly disliked the acid rinse process, feeling and smell of the apple cider vinegar rinses and prefer to save the vinegar for my salads. For some people it feels just fine. I have used both and greatly prefer syndets over and CP/HP soap I have made and used. My hair used to break and split with CP and most commercial cleansers. With syndets my hair 'seems' to grow very quickly since it's not all breaking off. I have get great wet and dry comb even without conditioner. Let me know if you'd like to give one a try. I'll drop a sample set in the mail to you.

I get these every week. I check out their blog/channel/site etc. to see how many followers and the quality of the writing/videos. Most are kids looking for free stuff. hey're not my target market I respectfully take a pass.

I start with the manufacturer's recommendations. Often the site where you purchase the ingredients will have similar usage rates and a formulary section to get you started. This forum has a lot of formulas shared by very knowledgeable and experienced people. You can also check Swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com. It's a great place to learn about individual ingredients, and has a load of formulas to try. You'll get your feet wet there and hopefully learn enough to begin branching out on your own. It's not an overnight learning curve, but when you invest the time to understand the chemistry involved with ingredients it is very rewarding.

These containers are tough to wick. The bottom diameter is smaller than the top, so by the time you get a good MP for the top, it's wicked way too hot for the bottom. Haven't used your wicks, so I'm unsure of the sizing.

I have to agree here. Too many scents makes inventory/production control challenging. Too many choices are not always good for customers. People get confused and frustrated and actually walk away purchasing less, or none. The magic number for choices to maximize sales from the customer shopping behavior studies is something pretty low, like less than 12.

I've talked directly with fragrance houses about getting water miscible fragrances so I can more easily mix fragrance with clear hair products. Those fragrances sold as water miscible are mixed with a surfactant, or other 'proprietary' substance to make the fragrance oil miscible. Some EO's are naturally water miscible. If you're into experimenting, you would do well to find the ingredients that will make your FO water miscible if that's what you're after. It will save you $ in the short and long run. Without knowing the formulation in the proprietary blends of each manufacturer's particular FO range this will be a case by case experiment. The CoA and MSDS for each fragrance you purchase may help narrow the variables somewhat.

Very, very cool.

SLSa - Sodium Lauryl SulfoAcetate - One of the most common powdered or granular foaming agents SLS - Sodium Lauryl Sulfate - very common foaming ingredient SCS - Sodium Coco Sulfate - Also a common foaming agent SCI - Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate - very mild surfactant common in high end salon products DLSS - disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate - very mild surfactant common in high end skin scrubs and such

SLSa is very mild, readily available ingredient used in tub treat things that bubble. It's not chemically the same as SLS (or SCS), though you will find those bubbling powders or granules/noodles in many commercial bubble baths. I'm a big fan of SCI or DLSS for similar bubbling - both are even gentler, milder than SLSa...

@moon01945~ have you tried Cream of Tartar instead of corn starch? I find it lends a lot more stability to the bubbles and a better overall 'feel' to the product.

It helps to make a template of the inside bottom of your mold. Cardboard will work. Make the folds for the various tutorials available folding around the bottom template. It works quickly and accurately every time. I've also been successful using 2 separate pieces of freezer paper placed over one another to make a cross. I don't worry about the corners since my wooden molds are fairly well seasoned. Easy peasy.

I have heard good things about global mama, though I have not been in need of shea recently to try it myself.

Exactly. I use SC for soap, but not lotiony products. That's why I suggested Vermont Soap above. Creamy and usable in lotion formulation. JEdwards is always good for CP and lotion too, as is Biochemica - both requiring a higher purchase quantity and higher per lb price.

I have purchased several times. Product was fine. Service was too.

I second the satsuma. And add clove.

Yes. I start listing them in the fall. Nothing 'bathy' sells well for me in the warmer months. Here's a link to the formula I've been using and instructions: http://doingisbelieving.blogspot.com/2011/04/solid-bubble-bath-bars.html I've been making them molded, kind of single serving size. it's time consuming, but kind of fun playing squash the mushroom as they start to set in the molds. Weighting them helps keep everything compacted well. I would imagine you could roll them into a log with multiple colors jelly roll style, wrap the log with wax paper/butcher paper and mold inside a tube until the initial reaction completes. then you could slice a la L**h. HTH

A lot of that depends on your formula. Those made using glycerin, for instance, age differently than those made with other liquids (such as surfactant blends). I'd think if you use glycerin that the shelf life would be no longer than the life of the preservative used. Test test test. My personal formula (which does not use glycerin) is ready to package in cello within 1 day of being unmolded. The finished texture is very dry, so they've have lasted more than a year without discoloration or degradation of performance even when stored open in a bathroom.

a lot of the ones I have purchased, whether made commercially or hand crafted, sink. IIRC, one purchased from L*sh floated, but didn't really 'fizz' as much as melt and ooze colors. Kind of a drag really. Looking back, the oil I've been most pleased with without having to use an emulsifier was sulfated castor (Turkey Red/TRO). TRO is the only water miscible oil. It's also nice because it will help emulsify other oils, such as fragrance.

24 hours is unlikely to be enough to cure the moisture out of the center. I'd go several days longer - esp before packaging. Cracking can be from a number of factors: drying too quickly, too much moisture added to the mix before molding, humidity in the air when curing, humidity in the raw ingredients drawing moisture and causing the reaction within the bath bomb... the list goes on and on.

I've heard good things about Vermontsoap.com for bulk unrefined shea.

Propay offers a few options. They also have a way to call in cc's using touch tone menus. It takes a few minutes per call, but is OK if you have no other options. If you have a computer you could bring along you could enter them on the spot easily enough.

it may float better after a good cure. I don't generally worry about floating or sinking if they otherwise perform well. Those that I've made which floated used Witch Hazel as the moistening agent. These generally fizzed with a lot of vigor and fizzed out very quickly (90-120 seconds for 4 oz spheres) IME. slight hijack - When using oils in bath bombs, you may find benefit from a little emulsifier to keep the oil from forming a layer on the surface of the tub water. E-Wax, Poly 20 or 80, or even BTMS should work well. The emulsifiers may also help prevent the ring around the tub after the tub drains. End hijack.

Whoa. there's class for you.:rolleyes2 I hope your daughter has quick wit and told her to shove it.

Have you ordered from them in the past, or created an account on the site? If so, then you should be grandfathered in as an existing customer, meaning the minimums won't necessarily apply.