TallTayl

December isn't far off (the typical time when my distributors get their stock for the year). The best pre-buy numbers I'm seeing in wholesale drum prices are $17-19 per lb (before freight). IMO, if you like Jojoba and plan to try to keep it in your formulations, buy whenever you can. The shelf life is very, very long.

jojobacompany.com is still at $70 per gallon. I bought some. It's nice.

I have with NG French Lavender, but not the others (yet). I read after having made the NG lavender that it does go brown. Doh!

For those who have had wicks tip or wander catching fire, were the wicks affixed to the cup like you would a container candle or loose (just placed in the cup)?

I have liked quite a few of their FO's in candles and B&B (those that are skin safe). Unless you're really being strict about keeping a short vendor list, then Peak is worth a try IMHO. It's also nice to have a couple of vendors in case one goes OOB, as has happened a lot lately

The CS Lavender A's IME and really heats - esp in GM CP. How much are you using PPO? Have you tried anchoring the lavender with a wee bit of Patchouli? I usually blend several lavender EO's (mostly 40/42) and once in a while blend an EO and FO to achieve the scent I'm after.

Could also depend on the quality of the EO's. Some sources of Tea Tree, etc. are simply better than others. (ie. Tea Tree from Wallyworld or the local health food store are necessarily the same quality for soap as TT from one of the major EO suppliers that do cater to soap makers... JMO)

We have loads of options available for EO's and FO's through vendors who are more courteous and appreciative than wsp. Blending EO's isn't too difficult with good base scents, a handful of qtips and some patience. I purchased from wsp exactly once for FO's several years back - before the nonsense with the free shipping. Decided back then the vendor was not for me. The FO's were terrible compared to so many of the reasonably priced alternatives available from companies who remain stable with their policies. I refuse to be dictated to by a vendor. Period.

I understand that, though Zen still purposefully eliminated that module from their latest release because the middle digits are passed to an email account that is identified within the Zen setup files. It doesn't take a hacker more than 3 seconds to find that email address and have blind copies of the middle digits sent to their own account. It's then a matter of tying the two pieces of info together to start illegally using the customer's card. it's not secure at all. It does not pass the latest security requirements. You could argue that purchasing a security certificate will help, but it's not in essence secure.

I process mine manually too. How are you collecting the cc info? The issue that concerns Zen is the relatively easy way to tie together the broken pieces of cc info that it stores and the email that sends the middle digits. It doesn't really pass security tests.

The latest version of Zen has removed the offline module for security reasons. You 'could' still install it from a prior version, but that circumvents the whole issue. I'm kind of stuck in the same boat. I'm a Zenner and have to select a new credit card processing system. Don't want to pay PayPal's high rates at all...

Absolutely yes. Preservative in addition to regular heat & hold and adherence to GMP.

Did your formula have a lot of OO? My first attempt took a lot longer than most - mostly i believe because I made it all OO. You could try adding a % or 2 at a time of more oil to see if that helps SAp any remaining free KOH.

From a physics perspective, the particles being blended during candlemaking are of different molecular weights. The stirring helps to create a homogenous blend (an emulsified product if you will) of those particles so they remain in suspension throughout the entire cool down during crystal development of the candle. This is another reason why many people have developed a process of stirring between pours when making many candles in a session. Have you ever noticed how some heavier fragrances tend to settle out or are otherwise difficult to blend at 'normal' temperatures? For instance, Candy Corn remains pooled toward the bottom of the pour pot at the wax manufacturer's mix temp of 180 for the waxes I use. It is an easy oil to notice the issues because of the color. How many FO's do not have a noticeable color against molten wax? Mixing vigorously for several minutes helps to emulsify those 'blobs' of oil that otherwise would settle to the bottom of the container candle (which would result in a potentially very dangerous candle toward the end of the burn). Just because it is not easily visible to the eye does not mean the larger blobs aren't there. Color may look blended because of the similarity of particulates that comprise the media. Especially true if using wax chips - wax blends with and suspends wax better than wax to oil. If one should ever have a candle that is in question for causing a fire in a customer's home your insurance provider will assuredly investigate your production methods. Ignoring manufacturer's published directions because a couple of chemistry classes made you think it was ok will provide absolutely no protection against liability. IMO physics trumps chemistry in the logic behind candle making. (I am a chemist with a physics background BTW).

For those who mix lye in glass containers, may I suggest you switch to plastic? Over time glass becomes etched and can fail at the wrong time. By fail, I mean shatter, spilling caustic lye solution all over you and your surroundings. Instead, a rubbermaid material type of pitcher, not the rigid plastic that becomes brittle over time, is far safer. If you have a nice fitting lid all the better to prevent spills. When mixing the lye with the liquid of your choice, it's often safer to mix in a sink. If a spill or volcano does occur you can wash it down the drain quickly and safely. To avoid fumes, just do not lean over the sink as you pour the lye into the water. The fumes disperse fairly quickly. When mixing outside, you risk spilling, tripping, etc. which is far. messier to clean than necessary. Have fun. As others have already said, don't fear the lye. Just use good common sense when handling it. Eye protection is a must, not a should. I choose to wear a mask in addition to gloves and eye protection. It protects what's left of my sense of smell from the sensory assault when working with EO's and FO's (I do this when making candles and such too)

So THAT'S been my problem all along. All of my girls face WEST! Boy will they ever be ticked at me when I turn them to face the container candle Goddess.

for just candles, or B&B too? Calabrian Bergamot & violet Apple Jack & Peel (morphs in CP soap but awesome in everything else) Bamboo Sugarcane Lemon Verbena Gap Earth Corn Husk (surprised me actually) Falling Leaves (good as a blender too) Amber Romance (great with added vanilla)

Have you tried to re-render or 'wash' the lard to remove the resistant smell? Just melt it in a large pan of water with some salt. Simmer gently for a few minutes. Chill it. Remove the white disk of cleaned lard that hardens. Repeat if necessary.

I love pumice in my salt bars for foot scrubbing soap. I use both pumice and sea salt in them and mold in individual molds. It really works off the rough parts making feet that are lovely in flip flops. The longer my salt soaps cure the better they seem to get. after about 6 months they're divine. I add coconut milk to mine for a little more lotiony lather.

Are you trying for an emulsified scrub? They're my favorite since they don't leave you 'shiny' and add the the wow factor for customers. The difference between the E-wax and BTMS is the after feel. e-Wax can leave more of a glossy feel, while BTMS leaves a more powdery feel. Both E-wax and BTMS are needed if you decide to ever try making lotions. BTMS is a workhorse in my formulary, finding its way into hair conditioner, shampoo, lotion, scrub... I buy it by the drum. :smiley2:

Try here: herbalcom.com.

This was my thought - get them early in case there's a problem.

Soapers Choice still stocks both 76 and 92 degree. http://www.soaperschoice.com

@Jeana: When using OO from Soapers Choice (either Type A or Pomace) it's hard very quickly - almost too hard to cut after a couple of days. To help achieve that I a) soap it kind of hot with smoking hot lye in warm OO and water discount (usually 40-44% lye solution). The only problems I've had with Castile were when the OO was not purely OO. Even though the label did not specifically indicate it was blended. For instance, Bertolli never firmed up right and turned a rusty color within a month (not just DOS, but whole scale oxidation). It was slimy to the touch even when completely dry and had a slightly funky aroma. I kept some for more than a year and it was still spongy to the touch after all that time. I suspect canola or soy in the adulterated oil.

I wonder if your Olive Oil was pure... It's not uncommon for many brands of Olive Oil to be adulterated with other oils, like canola, which would help explain the odd feel and behavior of the finished bar. My true OO soaps are hard as bricks and tend to have far less condensation even at outdoor markets where the humidity (Chicagoland) can be so high you need gills to breathe.