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It is certainly no secret that I work for BC. Never has been, thus the reason I post as the same name on all boards. But I do use their products and those I happen to use in Cyclo. Sorry you didn't like it but that is my opinion. If you have never noticed I have never said I use ONLY bc products...I make candles and body products for a living and use what works...just like the rest of us. Maybe you should give those fo's a try. I used WYW and BNL scents long before BC carried them and they are great in cyclo

You are welcome! Glad I could pass along the freebie tip! I wish more things in life could be free....especially when it comes to making candles. LOL

BCN's Juicy Couture type lasted all day on me! Last year at convention they were in our goody bags. Well dumb me didn't realize I hated that scent and sprayed myself that morning. I smelled it the next morning when I got up still! LOL Most people love it, I am one that sadly does not...obviously! I have also had good luck with Sandalwood Vanilla (bcn under the BNL scents) sticking like glue to me and Island Kola Nut & Vanilla Grapefruit (again BCN but those are both Wick Your Wax fo's.) I wear all three of those and they last all day and when I get up the next morning I can still sniff a bit

I don't need to slow cool any of my candles but a friend of mine uses J-223 and uses an old fridge (not plugged in) with added shelving. He puts the trays of candles in it and shuts the door. They are well insulated Works like a charm for him and you can get one free!

Those look great! Soaping is ADDICTING! I think even more so sometimes than candle making! LOL

Nothing changes per se over time but let me use this as an example. If you are making lotion and your finished product weighs 1 lb, you would use 1% of that which is like .15 oz of preservative. (no, I am not going to do exact math here but you will get the idea. If I made the same batch times 7 I'd use 7 times as much preservative as I did with the 1 lb batch to make 7 lbs. There is just no way on earth they can have a good system in there if you can multiply that base in that manner. If you used the low end of water, it would be preservative heavy and likely on the high end, too low...which is why I saw mold and so fast! And probably the same reason you reacted to the product. IMHO correct preservation of lotion is essential for safety reasons. No one wants a bacteria, fungus and yeastie beasties floating around in their lotions It is simply unsafe for anyones skin and health. Hopefully that explained it better, if not PM me and I will get back to ya

I would skip even attempting to increase sales online I don't have much luck myself with those venues aside from my regular websites. Have you considered setting up in a local office building on payday in the lobby? Having home parties or even doing fundraisers? Those are all great ways to increase revenue and really get your name out there. I do not even try anymore to gain much retail business. I just can't find the time but that is how we originally built our business up. We used to do every little show we could find. It worked wonderfully! If you have cheerleaders and churches in your area you have got ready made sales. Approach them about a fundraiser. Both those groups have been negatively impacted as we have by the slowing economy but people always seem a bit more willing to open their wallet for a good cause. That good cause also helps your pocket in the end

I just now read this. I tested the basic multibase and one other years and years ago...I think I was pregnant with my now 5 year old, been that long. The thing that got to me was first, I made a spray lotion with it and it molded! I used distilled water per instructions and had it tossed into a drawer for months...took it out and it was black! ISH! My feeling is there is no way the preservation system in those can be right. Maybe it is the preservatives that are irritating you? Think about this, if you make a product from scratch, you add the correct % of preservative. If they are making a product that say varies from 1-7lbs total weight the preservative has to be too much on the low end or not enough on the high end....see what I mean here? I just can't personally see how a product like this can work effectively or properly. I obsess over things like this so understand your frustration. I'd guess though it was the preservative that made ya itchy scratchy

Mine are up a lot! I pretty much do only wholesale and have for the past 8 years but sales for this Jan vs last are up $3800 and for Feb they are up so far $3300 from last year. I have noticed my average wholesale sale from last year rise significantly as well. Instead of ordering $275 on average, my average sale went to $520...not sure what to make of it but I will gladly keep it this way! My hubby got laid off in November with no job prospects in sight for anywhere in the near future. We are depending on my income more than ever! I think we will soon be seeing a big turn around in all our sales for the better. I see America going back to our Cottage Industry root! I will be so glad to embrace the change! I am sick of sending all my money to China!

I bought 100 lbs of it in 2002 that had the date on it. I didn't hold on that long. LOL It was a government seizure item! I paid a whopping $150 for it all! I am sadly down to about 4-5 lbs of it max...and I just refuse to share, it is SO rich! I love that patchouli only gets better with age

I am loving that one! And patchouli I am queen bee of! LOL I have myself a little stock of 15 year aged patchouli that I share with NO ONE!

Prarieannie, I am not going to argue with you any longer on this subject but here is a typical ingredients list for an M&P soap Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Stearate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sorbitol, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Sodium Myristate, Triethanolamine, Sodium Laurate, Sodium Cocoate, Water, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Extract. That contains detergents and surfactants. Please tell me how this falls under true soap? Where is the alkali? There isn't one. Thus this particular list IS A COSMETIC. Like I said "most" melt and pour soaps are not made from saponified oils, lye and water with a fat. In fact NOTHING in that list even is considered as such. They contain detergents...plain and simple which makes them a cosmetic and not a true soap. Again: How FDA defines "soap" Not every product marketed as soap meets FDA's definition of the term. FDA interprets the term "soap" to apply only when -- The bulk of the nonvolatile matter in the product consists of an alkali salt of fatty acids and the product's detergent properties are due to the alkali-fatty acid compounds, and The product is labeled, sold, and represented solely as soap [21 CFR 701.20].If a cleanser does not meet all of these criteria... If a product intended to cleanse the human body does not meet all the criteria for soap, as listed above, it is either a cosmetic or a drug. For example: If a product -- consists of detergents or primarily of alkali salts of fatty acids and is intended not only for cleansing but also for other cosmetic uses, such as beautifying or moisturizing,it is regulated as a cosmetic. If a product -- consists of detergents or primarily of alkali salts of fatty acids and is intended not only for cleansing but also to cure, treat, or prevent disease or to affect the structure or any function of the human body,I guess I don't understand what isn't clear in that. It's pretty black and white. If your product contains detergents, it isn't soap. Plain and simple.

Yes, SFIC bases are considered true soap per the guidelines except their crystal clear...which does have a surfactant and that yes, would need to be labeled as a cosmetic. However, MOST and again I stress most would fall under FDA regulations. If you read most ingredients labels for Melt and Pour soap you will see what I mean. I do stand corrected on SFIC bases but honestly few places sell those and although "some" people are using them not all are. It is just one of those things that needs clarification as most people assume soap is soap when that sadly isn't the case. Some are simple detergents that are called soap.

Prairieannie, you best go back over the FDA website. Melt and pour soap is a cosmetic and regulated by the FDA. Not properly labeling this could put you in hot water with them. Most all melt and Pour soaps all contain surfactants (ie. detergents) in fact I've never seen one that does not but can't rule out there isn't one out there. This little blurb is direct from this page right on the FDA's site http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-218.html True soap (made from lye (alkali and fats) is not goverened by the fda but the rest sure are! And yes, my facts are straight and correct. (edited to add: I did make melt and pour soaps for nearly 8 years. I have made CP since 2000 and I made both for a time. I never looked back. I can add far more and change what I don't like easy as changing an oil. Everyone has a preference and I respect that but if a person needs to add 8-10 additional ingredients to an existing base, somehow I view that as an inferior product to begin with. Just my experience.) How FDA defines "soap" Not every product marketed as soap meets FDA's definition of the term. FDA interprets the term "soap" to apply only when -- The bulk of the nonvolatile matter in the product consists of an alkali salt of fatty acids and the product's detergent properties are due to the alkali-fatty acid compounds, and The product is labeled, sold, and represented solely as soap [21 CFR 701.20].If a cleanser does not meet all of these criteria... If a product intended to cleanse the human body does not meet all the criteria for soap, as listed above, it is either a cosmetic or a drug. For example: If a product -- consists of detergents or primarily of alkali salts of fatty acids and is intended not only for cleansing but also for other cosmetic uses, such as beautifying or moisturizing, it is regulated as a cosmetic. If a product -- consists of detergents or primarily of alkali salts of fatty acids and is intended not only for cleansing but also to cure, treat, or prevent disease or to affect the structure or any function of the human body, it is regulated as a drug. If a product -- is intended solely for cleansing the human body and has the characteristics consumers generally associate with soap, does not consist primarily of alkali salts of fatty acids,it may be identified in labeling as soap, but it is regulated as a cosmetic.

I have not in melt and pour but have done similar in CP with excellent results for my teens I used activated charcoal, tea tree eo and lavender eo. The lavender is also excellent for use in treating acne and it smells better than tea tree. I'd give it a shot!

Ok, I see a few problems here First, how can you properly label that for resale with the added ingredients? You'd have no idea where to put them on the label to label per FDA regulations. Since melt and pour soap is considered a cosmetic this would certainly pose a problem from that standpoint. Now anything added in 1% or LESS can be labeled at the end of the product label but certainly 1/8 cup is more than 1%. Adding that much to melt and pour can also cause problems as far as the integrity of the base and preservation goes. Personally I'd stick to adding fragrance oil and maybe one or two additional ingredients at the 1% or less. If you are adding that much to melt and pour I'd say take the plunge and make CP, you will NEVER look back...promise

We can do that! I have it ordered and plan to soap next week. I am a daredevil. LOL I am thinking about doing a 50/50 water lye (my standard) room temp CP and swirling with purple mica, white (td) and green mica. Oh I pray I don't seize a batch! I will post results

I agree with the bulk of the posters in this thread. Chances are the soap isn't fully cured (aka the excess water evaporated from the bar..thus it is still squishy soft) or the recipe itself that is soft. For example a recipe that does not contain Palm, Palm Kernal, Lard etc tends to be softer and melt away faster than one that does. Now as for a months cure...that depends on the recipe and the amount of water used. My soaps are fully cured within two weeks. I can use them within a week but I wait just for good measure to sell them. I use a deep water discount and 60% hard oils in my standard off the shelf recipe...which honestly can make a big difference in the finished product as well. I sadly see a lot of people selling poor quality product and it frustrates me but in the end I gain their customers so good thing for me!

I bet I haven't posted on TSR or been there in four years or better! lol I will head over there and check it out! Thanks!

Has anyone soaped this here? I have a lb ordered for ME ME ME! I just love the perfume and er...seeing as I am not a trust baby (although it would be nice!) I just can't justify the cost of the real deal. The CP notes on the site showed it discolored to a lavender...did it trace fast? I just need to see if anyone has a pointer or two on this fo. I can not wait to get this in! I've been on a mission soaping new stuff this week! It's been a blast! Thanks for any input anyone can offer.

The most accurate way I feel is to make one and weigh it on a good digital scale finished. Takes some product to test with but we should be testing anyway

It's the zinc core that is the problem. Soy waxes are extremely viscous and typically need cotton wicking or paper to burn properly. The zinc core wicks burn too cool and tend to do this. Bruce from Wicks Unlimited and I had a very lengthy discussion regarding the use of zinc in both soy and parasoy blends and both agree not using zinc is the best and often only real solution to the problem. This problem sadly can crop up at any point with zinc and soy with no real rhyme or reason...even half way through a candle. If you can tell me specifically which size wicks you normally use in your wax I can probably suggest replacemtns in another series wicking that should be much better for you over the long haul.

Try this. Heat your wax to 180, immediately add your dye and your scent. Cool the wax to 105-110* and stir it till the wax is slushy. (Don't use any PB or other additives in it just go this one alone.) Make sure to pour when the wax is slushy. I can't pour my wax over that and it's basically the same thing. I just poured 13 cases the other night and wet spots are not there and they look fantastic. I never get seepage either. Wet spots however can and will happen with any container candle over time. Just the nature of the beast so to speak...don't sweat em..Yankee has their share too They are just near impossible to avoid fully. Also don't heat your jars. Make sure to pour into them room temp for the best results and let cool as fast as nature lets them

What temp are you adding the fo to the wax and also what temp are you pouring at? I have found that can really mess with my candles and the sweating if I change my methods there. My temp changes in northern MN are pretty extreme. I can be 100* in the summer and -45* in the winter.

In FP 02 you need to insert your code right into the html. At the bottom of your screen you should have three words, lower right corner...one says normal, html, preview. Click on the normal page where you want to see it and then click on html and insert the code by pasting it in. Most hosts do not support fp extensions...this is the way around that. HTH