PurpleHippie

I certainly notice a difference in my scent throw when I let them cure for at least 1 week. However, I have noticed that wicks that gave me a good burn & correct melt pool when tested within the first few days after making the candle sometimes do not give the same results when I test them several weeks or months later. I have had wicks that tunneled or didn't reach a full melt pool when tested several months after making but they had previously burned just fine when tested within the first few days after making them. Different wax, different people, different results.

I use two different suppliers for my wax. I have tried many different suppliers for FO but I have 3 favorites. Just cant get everything that I like or what works well in wax from one FO supplier. I also only use FO's that I can get an good throw from using 6% or less.

My customers prefer tarts also. Reeds were a real dud in this area. I know someone that works for Pier One and she said they just sit on the shelf. No in our area is has any interest in them. When she worked at another location in another city people loved them.

Does anyone know of a site that sells the clear acetate packaging for tea lights and tarts that sells individually and NOT by the case? I am looking for the smaller packages that hold 4 tarts, 3-4 tea lights. I've located a few on-line sites but they only sell by the case 100 per case.

I like it too! It's not a spice pumpkin but it has an awesome throw. I was surprised on another post that so many people commented that they dislike it. Just a word of warning, use it at a lower %. Some have reported FO seepage after a few weeks. It throws very well so don't worry that it will change the throw.

Yes, I see that the main discussion is concerning wicks and that fire is involved with a wicked candle. On previous pages of this topic usage of tin on warmers is mentioned so I just wanted to make sure that the general consensus hadn't changed from suggesting that tins were better for use on warmers instead of glass.

Same problem I have with that FO, weak cold throw no matter how long it cures.

I made tiny tarts that I thought would be nice sold by the scoop. I spent A LOT of time on them and they did not go over well with customers. People just wanted the usual individual tart shapes melts.

Flickering usually increases as the wax burns down. It is because of the air flow with the container. However, if my wick STARTS out flickering or bouncing I don't like that at all and test another wick.

I am a bit confused here:confused: There was a post where the discussion concerned how unsafe glass containers can be on warmers because we have no way of knowing how high each individual warmer will heat the glass to and that might cause the glass to explode or crack. So tins were mentioned as a better alternative. Now there is a problem with the tins? Which is it? Is this just a problem when using wicks with tins or on the warmers also?

I use zinc and I don't have a problem with mushrooming unless I am doing a marathon burn. I also do not blow out my flame. I dip the wick back into the wax to extinguish and pull it back up to re-light next time. I find that blowing the flame out contributes to smoke and/or black soot.

I find that I have to use a lot of FO on those to get them to last long. Too much FO! I quit selling them because they are so common in every gas station and other stores that people really didn't want to spend more than 1.00 on them.

I love chocolate scents but I can't sell one to save my life. People complain that it makes them hungry.:undecided

Just as Sliver stated I have also never had to use higher than 8% with any FO that I use to get an outstanding scent throw. I test in a large 1st floor room and I only give or sell candles that produce enough throw that I can also smell upstairs while burning downstairs. That's just me and the way I like to test and what I expect from my candles. I haven't had to use any higher pecentage of FO to get those results. Sliver is right, it may just be a problem with that FO.

I'd like to hear from anyone that uses either one of these FO's. What is your opinion? I've tried a few other apple pie scents from other suppliers and haven't been able to get a strong throw from them. I am considering trying one last time and can't decide between KY Homemade Apple Pie or CC's Spiced Apple Pie.

It's very nice but it smells an awful lot like the Apple Cobbler to me.

Flicker is correct, ALL waxes can require a cure time. That includes paraffin. It just depends on the FO and the individual nose and sense of smell. I have yet to test one wax that the scent throw didn't get better after a week, some times more. 12%! ! Nice that the wax can hold that much but I wouldn't use a wax or FO that required that much. That would double my cost for FO and add more to the price I would have to sell the candle to cover that much FO. JMO, if it works for you that's great:smiley2:

I find zinc works well for me in paraffin but they don't burn hot enough IMO for soy. I don't get the scent throw from them that I do with other wicks. I do love the fact that the wick is ridgid. As for them being harmful, no. The problem in the past was with Lead wicks.

It's odd how at times you suddenly get several request for something different. I don't know if there is someone out there promoting large size containers for wickless but all of a sudden I have customers asking if I can make my wickless in 16oz or larger:shocked2: containers. I normally use 6 and 8oz containers. I asked if there is a problem with the size I have been usingor the scent throw. They all stated no it's just because they can get the really large candles for $5.00 at several stores. I've explained that the jumbo containers aren't necessary for wickless and that it actually takes much longer to melt the entire contents of the jar. I think it is just the idea that they are getting more product for the money since we do live in a nation of Super Size everything. :smiley2: Before these request I was actually considering using the 6oz size containers from now on for my wickless. What size containers do you all use for your wickless?

60lb case cost 25.00 shipping and my total is 95.00. I can't purchase any supplies locally so I don't have any other option. I always add my shipping charges into my figures for the total cost of my candles. I have spoken with other candle makers and have always been surprised that many forget the shipping charges in their total cost.

I've had the same problem. There are some people selling 16oz Mason jar soy candles for 3.50. I order my supplies so I can't sell them for that price. Not to mention adding something for my time and effort. I was told that there is a site that sells bulk candles such as the jelly jar, mason and even palm VERY cheap with no labels and the purchaser just puts on their label and sells them. Maybe that's where they are getting them:confused: I'd rather make mine, that way I know exactly what went into them and what wicks were used.

I am sorry that it was such a disaster for you. Sitting out in the sun all day certainly didn't help but you didn't have much control about that. What type of wax are you using? How long have you been making candles?

I am considering adding 3% Beeswax to my 415 to help with the frosting issues. I am just wondering if anyone has notice if the addition of beeswax lessens the cold or hot throw?

or Rockin Out with Scent! Hey, the Greatful Dead had the Dead Heads so why not have your own groupies.

I have tried these and have the same opinion, huge! The flames are wide and tall and my jars got so hot I couldn't touch them. Palm does burn differently so maybe another wick will work out better then these.