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Those are so beautiful!! I'm sure your mom will like them. Janet

Thanks for the tip. I'll keep this in mind if mine doesn't turn out. I've been sewing for many years and thought this would be something I'd like to make in my spare time. I have to add it to my list. Thanks. Janet

Thank you, thank you, thank you, for the website. I'll be there for quite awhile! Hope to make one like yours one day. So pretty! Janet

I really like your purses. I would like to make one for myself. I like how you have alot of pockets inside the purse. Where did you get your pattern for this? Do you mind sharing? Thanks, Janet

You do nice work. The candles look awesome. Love the melts!!

Love your candles and name also. I want to put a bible verse on my logo someday too. Praise God for standing by you through this trauma. Janet

Beautiful candle! You do such fantastic work!

This is what it says in her book: START WITH A BASE SOAP The criteria for selecting a base soap for hand milling are that the soap be white, unscented, and not a detergent. Unscented, hypo-allergenic soaps, such as baby soaps and pure vegetable soaps, are the best performers in hand-milled soap recipes. They may be harder to find in grocery stores, but they are readily available in drug stores and health food stores. When you shop for soap, you'll find detergent bars that are labeled "beauty bars," "deodorant bars," or "family cleansing bars." The word "soap" does not appear anywhere on the package. The recipes in this book don't use deodorant bars or family cleansing bars because they contain fragrances and color. Beauty bars are available without scent and color, but if you use beauty bars in your soapmaking you are including the additives, such as fillers, builders, and binders, that are present in them. Unscented beauty bars can be used for facial scrubs- they are not remelted, so the moisturizing cream they contain is beneficial. When making hand-milled soaps best results are obtained when using actual soap. Sorry this is so long. This probably makes sense to you great soapmakers out there, but I'm confused as to what soap I should use. (I've been reading alot and haven't made any soap yet.) Can anyone help? Thanks, Janet

Hi, I got this book at the library, and I've been reading it. Very interesting. She is making French-milled soap. I'm not sure what soap she uses though. Has anyone read this book? Is it a M&P base, or a bar of soap from the store? Thanks, Janet

Great idea!

Looks very decorative. Nice job.

They are very pretty! Nice job.

Very nice job.

Those are very, very nice.

Thanks for posting the q-tip test. It seems easy. I'm going to try it, too.

They are really cute!

Those are very creative!!

Everytime I see one of these I want to try it. It looks very pretty.

That is such a beautiful color. Nice candle.

I have never made a rustic candle. I don't know what the criteria are. But I think those are very nice candles. Don't stop. janet

Hi, Thanks for the response to my question. I do have a heat gun, but some of the time when I use it my jars start to frost or they get wet spots. So that's why I want to give a second pour a try. Yes, they are container candles. When I poke holes, it looks worse. So I will do that and try a second pour. But can I do the second pour after the candle cools down? Or does it have to be done while it is still warm? Janet

Hi, I have been experiencing some cave ins around the wick lately. I was thinking about trying a second pour instead of the heat gun, but I'm not sure if it's too late. Can I top this off with a second pour after the candles are set up? I hope this makes sense. Is there a certain time this has to be done? Thanks. Janet

Very nice candle. I'm sure he'll like it.

You did a great job. I like the fo.

You did a great job. They look so pretty.