Melly

Its canadian funds for the jar hun its about $1.19 when you finish the exchange rate.

OK, i am just about ready to strangle myself, go into a pregnant crying fit of frustration or give up candlemaking all together. I give up on trying to double wick cotton on my 16oz 4" apoth jars. I have Zinc, HTP, and Cotton wicks in about every size. Can you guys please tell me what you use on these types of jars. http://www.canwax.shoppingcartsplus.com/catalog/item/634635/1120207.htm I am using 4786, 1ozpp fo I am using the 16oz size, I am literally wicking up like 20 of these puppies today with all wick suggestions and seeing which one burns best. Do you guys normally tend to find your base wicking on a scented or unscented candle? Thanks for you help, I am starting to feel asthough I will never get these wicked, why cant all candles be as simple as votives and tea lights.

I add at trace aswell, make sure you blend it in well afterwards, I had one batch that had a HUGE honey pocket in the bottom.

yes, polyethalene + FO = bad.

I tried naked and it didnt work for me, so im going to try wrapping in cello with a hang tag and a ribbon, will leave one of each scent out for touching and smelling purposes. btw welcome back, long time no see

Do you use christmas ornament molds for them? If so, leave it in the second half of the mold for about 15 - 20 minutes before you unmold, gives one side a chance to harden.

Another tip I have read is to put a small cotton ball soaked in the FO in the soap in the plastic box with the soaps. It will refresh them if the scent is fading and help keep them strong. I have not tried this yet so I can not say for sure that it works.

For my non upland molds I use no melt quilting mylar.

Make sure you check every brand and double check the container each time you buy it. The no name brand ones have all changed on me, here they are starting to mix it with canola oil so it looks like im going to have to pay more for the crisco brand.

oh you have to get one, I have the double and the single. had my hubby drill me popsickle sticks to center them perfectly up top, works wonders. Im centering impaired, so its a valuable tool.

Right now I use the ornaments, I had to fiddle with my recipie and try different techniques to get them to stick. I am getting a meatballer soon. I have only used FO for mine so far, do not have any EO, but I like the way the FO works in them. 1 TBS per batch seems to give a nicely scented batch.

I use Elizabeths bath bomb recipie from the recipie section. I decreased the amount of alcohol/witch hazel by half. I mix my dry ingredients minus the citric with my wet ingredients, then add the citric when its well combined. As well whisk your dry ingredients well before mixing the wet in. This makes 4 christmas tree ornament sized bath bombs with a little left over to sprinkle in my sons bath. If you have trouble getting them to stick together, try subbing 1/2 the sweet almond oil with castor oil. edited to add: I dry these in my oven, I put it on 175 for a few minutes then turn it off when I add the bombs. If you live in a humid area the citric can react and cause your bombs to explode.

Im not trying to melt a dollar store candle. Im trying to create a high quality container candle, and i've never seen one burn before, so i wanted to know how it should perform Trust me, I will never touch another dollar store candle as long as I live. Im working with paraffin, 4786, 16 oz apoth, 4 inches across. I have it double wicked right now with 44-24-18C's and am going to try 44-28-18C to see which burn I like better, the 44-24s are working, I am about half way through the jar, I would just like my flames to be just a little stronger. Ive tried single wicking with as high as an HTP121 and was not happy with the smoking torch that did not give me a full melt pool Besides I love the look of double wicks, and I have an ez wick setter, so it's not any extra work for me. Thank you for all your help guys, keep the advice coming if anyone has anymore, this is definatly helping me.

hehe, trust me, any container candle from the dollar store, just not worth it. Im going to let this one keep burning, and im going to make another one with the next size up and see which burn I like better. This is the closest ive gotten so far to a working container out of several wick combos ive tried over the last few months, and im trying hard not to get frustrated. Votives and tea lights were so easy to wick, wish it was the same for these guys. What I am gathering is even if I have to play with the candle a whee bit to have it perform to its peak, customers will not think of this as odd, because they have to do it with any other candle theyve ever had anyways. Is this correct??

http://www.flexiblemolds.com/bakery.htm has pecans walnuts and almonds.

Ok, its a simple question, but ive never had a container candle that came from anywhere other then the dollar store. I have a 16oz container double wicked. It is on its 5th burn. 1st burn, full melt pool after 4 hours, 1/2 an inch in depth, wonderful scent throw. on following burns, the melt pool took much less time to obtain, and the flames stayed at about the same height as when I lit it. Now on the 5th burn, I am still getting full melt pool all the way across, but it seems after I get a full melt pool, the flames almost seem it "simmer". They are not close to drowning, about 1/2 an inch high, but they are just not as strong as when it was lit 2 hours ago. Is this a normal burn for a container, or is this an indication that things are starting to go downhill with the burn?

Tea lights, hundreds and hundreds of tea lights in lots of different scents. Then I have to design some nice packaging for them.

I third the idea of buying a kit or supplies from a reputable supplier. Craft store candle supplies will not give you the quality of candle you are looking for. Waxes for containers and votives require addictives, the craft store wax is most likley straight paraffin. Without these addictives, your not going to get a good throw. I could not find any information on Candle Wiz, I am assuming you got it from the craft store as well? A good quality of FO will make all the difference in your finished product. And alot of times its even cheaper then the little bottles of FO you buy at the craft store, especially if you are buying a few ounces at a time. Are the air bubbles appearing on your votives or jars? please please stop cooling them in the freezer, you are going to have issues there. There are alot of other methods that will saftley eliminate air bubbles such as pouring temp, relief holes and chaning times between initial pour and repour. Good luck. Melanie

Are you doing small amounts of Fo for bath bombs ect? For this I use a tsp or tbs, you can get syringes with the markings raised into the plastic, all of mine are like this. For measuring for candles and soap where im using larger amounts, I use glass baby food jars, I have hundreds of these things. I just measure what I need on the scale, toss it in the pour pot and when Im done with the scent toss the jar in the big box of dirty jars under my work table. (One day i'll get around to cleaning them, really I will, unless I can find another hungry baby first)

Anyone have the warning for them? I have checked on several suppliers sights and can not find an example of a warning lable to place on tea light packaging.

Have it, Love it!

Bunny, let us know how tommarrows batch goes.. I have 500gms of KoH waiting for me to get up the nerve to try this, ordering the liquid soap book soon. How many 4oz bottles of liquid soap did this fill anyways?

Fill the molds with lots of mix so some falls out when you squeeze it together, hold them so hard your hands hurt but not hard enough to break the molds for about 15 seconds, set them down and leave them in the molds for about 10 minutes. Then carefully pull off the top half. Leave the bottom half on for about 20 minutes longer to prevent flat bottoms.

They are cute.. they look a little angry though, how did you insert that sponge capsul? LOL

My first ones looked like your first ones too... I had to seriously tweak the Ritas Rock hard recipie to get them to work for me..finally finalized my version last week. I leave mine in the bottom of the mold for about 15 minutes to 30 minutes to prevent flat bottoms, seems to work pretty well for me. Your last ones look really great.