Sponiebr

I don't make candles but, uh, yanno, WHERE she left them "uncovered" for a month might be an important bit of info... Like, when one of my customers was telling me that my soap was really weakly scented, covered in orange dots (I had a FLIP'N HEART ATTACK at that one), and they didn't want to use it to try it out... Me: "(Wait... whut?)" "You didn't try it?" Customer: "No, it smells a little gamy, like used cooking oil or someth'n..." Me: "I'll get you fresh bar, but can you bring me the soap so I can take a look at it?" Customer: "Yeah sure... One sec... (Goes over to van and pulls bar off of dash board) Here, see what I mean?" Me: "Duuuuuuuuuuuuude.... no.... You can't..." 3 months on a black dash board in FLORIDA... Yeah, that'll make just about ANYTHING smell a little gamy... SO, did they leave the candles uncovered for a month on their dashboard in full sunlight? And scientists were AMAZED! Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

I used avocado oil and FCO with NF ewax in my mix and it turned out very nice and not too oily. Just about everything is too oily for me. I'm a dude... I can't STAND feeling like I have "product" on me after I have washed it off. The FCO tends to leave a more "silky" "afterglow".... (hummm.... "silky afterglow"... I'm gonna have to work that into my conversational vocabulary somehow) IIRC I tempered the shea, ewax, and the rest of the oils together and after they were set up I proceeded with the FO, sugar, and mica colorant. I used turbinado sugar (which was a little too coarse) but the effect was generally really nice. Cheers, Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

OH!!!! OH!!!!! I NEED a TEE SHIRT! I have come up with my new motto:#genXafI've GOTTA get the Tee shirt!!!!

CANDY! DON'T EAT THE CANDLES! NO! [wanders off muttering] Oh...My-LANTA... I fall off radar for a couple of weeks and Candy's talk'n 'bout how good candles taste after they've sat around... LORD Only KNOWS what Trapp's been up to... Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services

*Whispers* Use Zippo Lighter fluid... Use Zippo LIiiiiiGHTER fluid Trapp.... Just squirt a little on the label edge and let it soak for a few seconds and then peel off. Wipe the residue off with a little lighter fluid on a paper towel.. The lighter fluid evaporates and leaves no residue... (yes, I'm STILL whispering)

Trapp, your labe;'s fine, your poor friend, though... Sheesh... Hey I KNOW! Bring her some Midol and offer it to her with the comment : "Hey, hon... I brought you something I think might make you less 3itchy..."* All the labels are awesome Trapp! Slainte, Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services. *Not my joke. Blame Ron White.

@Trappeur Chronic's right, you can use MS Paint to resize images as well. I'm pretty sure WIN7HP has paint.

Hey Trapp, Several things can make this easier for you, well, sorta. First you should get GIMP 2.8.22. GIMP is a free, open source code (meaning they don't hide and lock the computer programming code so anyone can modify it to suit their own needs) graphics design software suite. (Did I mention it's FREE?) You can download GIMP for Windows here: https://download.gimp.org/mirror/pub/gimp/v2.8/windows/gimp-2.8.22-setup.exe GIMP is a POWERFUL image manipulation package, BUT it (there's no NICE way of saying it) it's A MASSIVE PAIN IN THE BUTT to use. But, it's open source so there are photoshop, um, "themes?" that you can add to it so that it behaves like photoshop. It's a tad tedious, but I can step you through the process once you actually get GIMP. I'm a Linux guy, but I use GIMP with the Photoshop overlay exclusively for all of my image work. So, GET IT. Next there are some smaller more lightweight utility applications that can help you resize photos a little more easily, more like windows photo editor. I like gThumb but I don't really know if you can use it in windows. Here's the link for the tarball. Again it's free and you might try it and see if windows can figure out tarball compression. if not let me know and I'll fuggure out some sort of workaround. https://sourceforge.net/projects/gthumb/files/latest/download Cheers, Sponiebr Malum incarnatus Ideas

American Weigh Scales AWS-600 for micro stuff https://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Scales-AWS-600-BLK-Nutrition/dp/B000O37TDO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515193418&sr=8-1&keywords=american+scale+600 And a My Weigh KD-8000 with flip down protector and power supply for my bigger stuff: https://www.amazon.com/My-Weigh-KD-8000-Kitchen-Digital/dp/B01C6CN1VY/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1515193475&sr=1-2&keywords=KD8000 I also use a little crappy el cheapo scale I don't remember the make for my knock-around-throw-it-in-my-pack-and-go scale. Sponiebr Malas Ideas Incarnata

Not really sure about what specifically you're talking 'bout here because we have a TON of the Best lists BUT you probably could find what you're after over -----> (here), (<----no not THERE<---) ------>THIS *(T)HERE* -------> http://www.craftserver.com/forum/28-fragrance-discussion/ That^s what I'm HERE for... ^THERE^ Check the stickies at the top of the forum and the scent reviews at the very top. Hope >>>THIS<<<< helps. Sponiebr Bad Ideas Incarnate

Yeahaup!

OMG!!! I LOVE the hand washing videos!!! I've been wondering WHERE they got off to. YAY! In the words of Paris Hilton: "thaz hot" :)

Yeah there's A LOT to "it", and cleaning up drips ain't even part of "it" yet. If the ceramic jar is glazed then follow the same instructions above as for glass. If it UN-glazed, that is SIGNIFICANTLY more difficult to deal with, and honestly I'm not sure it would be worth the effort or chance of damage to the jar to correct the problem... It can still be cleaned but it involves extreme heat which might damage the piece. (there are a few other extraction methods but, gosh, you'd have to be REALLY enamored with the piece.) Like I said at the start of my last post I'm not a candle maker, I'm more of a disaster maker...

Hi Chris! Although I'm not a chandler I am part of another dyspouria... (It's unsettling isn't it?) Yeah, I remember ice candles from that blue Reader's Digest book of crafts... Wow... The things they used to tell us to do... Glass jars with steel lids and nail holes in them for mixing and pouring lye solutions, using crayons to color EVERYTHING... It's a wonder I'm still here. NOT what you asked about though... nap First I think it would be best to ask WHAT is your container made from? Bright shiny tin? Frosted glass? Clear Glass? Un-glazed ceramic? Depleted Uranium? An old mayonnaise jar you couldn't find the steel lid for to poke holes in it for mixing up your lye solution? (BTW: DO NOT USE GLASS to mix lye... EVER...) So let's say it's NON-porous and all slicker'n a green snake fart. You can cool it and scrape off the majority of the wax drips and then follow up with some turpentine on a rough rag to remove the wax, and then wipe that clean with a little naphtha. Mineral spirits or kerosene will usually work in place of turpentine for petroleum products like paraffin wax (kerosene itself IS a a fraction of paraffin.) And gosh... There's TONS of polar solvents that'll tear beeswax up, but meh, acetone as I recall will tear it up pretty good like MEK, ethanol, methanol, Sterno, isopropanol, and most notably acetone are the ones right off the top of my head. Those won't touch the paraffin though... There are 4 major solvents everyone needs in crafting (and in their home) Clean dry Acetone, Naphtha, Clean dry >90% Isopropanol, and Mineral Spirits. I like to add into that list , Turpentine, Toluene (or xylene, toluene is a broader solvent though) and TONS of automotive brake cleaner. I keep both the chlorinated (for rubber parts) and non chlorinated brake cleaners on hand but mostly the non chlorinated stuff. Lost yet? Good. That's what I'm here for... Side tours of worlds you never wanted to see. I'll recap: Let it cool and if the container is non-porous scrape the cold (COLD wax) from the sides with a wood scraper or something... Wipe the remaining streaks clean with either turpentine or mineral spirits and then wipe THAT residue off with some naphtha or acetone. (either will work, though naphtha would be better) HtH, Sponiebr, The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services.

How's avocado oil for shelf life? I think I'm gonna make some "side gifts" with this *exact* "Creamy Sugar Scrub" formulation. I think I'll do this in an emulsifying formulation, and with some jojoba or avocado oil instead of Almond oil, and FCO instead of plain CO, oh, and some Vitamin E, and maybe some mineral oil... Ok... So it's not *exactly* the same as the above mentioned formulation... It's really more like within the same city as the ballpark... -Sponiebr

Ok, zo... I has a question: Would adding a small amount of e-wax sort this issue out? What's in the green tea extract? Is it ETOH based? Beeswax is a naturally occurring e-wax so it would seem like NF e-wax would do the trick especially if there was any sort of water in the mix. Thorts? Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and Sundry Services. EDITED: I noticed a comment about giving the tapioca powder a pass and I concur... I mean, y'know unless you want a scrub... Also, where's the water content in this? It looks like just about all fat and no way to get it off... (cringe)

(whimpers) I wish I was making soap... I DID get fed up with the whole "prison" sentence and I made some beard lotion last night for myself scented with CS' Christmas Hearth. It was small, but it meant a lot to me... Sponiebr

I don't know about wax per se, but the emergency fire starters I've made were just a cotton ball dipped in some hot petroleum jelly. I know to prime some of the wood wicks I made I literally boiled them in wax until I lost the water content from the wood (e.g.: they stopped or nearly stopped bubbling). HTH, Sponiebr

Good GOLLY... (goo gone... blech) Wipe them out with some naphtha (aka: Zippo Lighter fluid). It dries quickly and won't leave any residue behind. TT's right, heat and that stuff won't get along at all... IF it's PVC naphtha might cloud it up, but it's probably not of the rare ilk of PVC that will cloud up. (If you'd otherwise pitch it anyway no harm in trying the naphtha). I personally can't stand goo gone, truly nasty stuff to me with all that d-limonene and mineral spirits... (gag) That's just me... -Sponiebr (see sig line for further info)

I wood ant (see what I did there?) give up on them just yet... You might split a strip off either side of the wick to make them less wide. Also try trimming the wick closer to the wax. I seriously only had about 3/32 ( as in 1.5 (16ths) of an inch above my wax and they burned beautifully. I "soaked" my wicks in hot wax, (not oil mind you) before I set them into the jars. But I made my own wooden wicks too... So working 12 hr shifts on midnights huh? I too am one who dwells in the darkness... Tell ya what, I'll bring the soap, YOU bring the light. Sponiebr The Executor of Bad Ideas and NOT A CHANDLER...

Hmmm... "Christmas Past" How about THIS for a name: "Used Syndicate" (Knocked it straight outta Lynwood!) Sponiebr

We NEED a LOVE <3 <3 <3 button for our reaction button Keeping with what TT mentioned (I'm NOT a chandler BTW) wood wicks IME have to be trimmed VERY short. WAY shorter than a fiber wick. Some of my home made wicks were only about 3/32" high for a nice "normal" flame.

Oh.... I'm SO sorry AJ! Ah, well... the precedent has been set... They DO look pretty though!

ERMAHGERD ERTS UH MERMERHD!!!!