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Tea

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  1. Tea
    Just a question. You posted once where to get the dried flowers from. My computer crashed and I lost the address. could you please reppost it. Many thanks. Tracey
  2. Tea
    Donita, as usual I love your work. One of the first things I tried was an orb, because I loved yours. These are beautiful as always. Tracey
  3. Tea
    Thankyou very much. That's the one I was looking for. Much appreciated. Tracey
  4. Tea
    My computer crashed a while ago, and along with it all of the sites that I have saved. There was a site that I had, were you could put in a list of fo's, eo's that you have and it would give you a varity of different blends that could be used. I was wondering if anyone could help me. Frustrated and hoping. Tracey
  5. Tea
    I agree with Eugena, used it many times. Maybe it's the brand that you use? Is the smell still there once cut? Tracey
  6. Tea
    Well I've got the fairy's that live in Australia. Make a 10 pound batch with a scent that has never seized, and lost the lot. Soap in a pot. Yesterday make a 7 pound batch with another scent that has never given me problems, and soap in a pot again. Someone take them, as this is getting to expensive. Please, Tracey
  7. Tea
    In a soap book that I have, it uses rice water, as the rice starch is soothing for baby skin. Just boil some rice in water, and use that as your water count. I usually keep it as cool as possible while adding the lye. Also I use olive oil that has been sitting with calendula. Calendula is also recommended for baby skin. Scent is not supposed to be used till babies are at least 6 months, as baby skin is too soft and sensitive and their liver is too immature to cope with the absorbsion of them. This is the only soap that I make for babies. Just my experiences. Tracey
  8. Tea
    I just posted the same question below. The answer in the thread, Mould Capacity, below. Tracey
  9. Tea
    Thankyou very much for that. That is very helpful. Tracey
  10. Tea
    Hi Everyone, to work out the capacity of a mould, it is width x length x height? Is that right? So if it works out to be say 144in, then it will be 144 oz of oil? Could some please let me know if this is right. Tracey
  11. Tea
    Yes thankyou, that is a great help. Thankyou very much. Tracey
  12. Tea
    I have just made my first batch of cream soap. I was wondering at what rate the fo/eo's were added? Colouring I assume is to your taste. I have just finished "cooking" it and tomorrow I hope to do the final steps. Should I let it "rot" before I put in the scents ect, or can they be put in before hand? Just wondering how botanicals go in cream soap too. Thanks in advance for your help. Tracey
  13. Tea
    They are absolutely beautiful. Have been thinking of doing something very similar, but have only got as far as buying the moulds. I am always looking for something to package and present in, so where did you get your boxes from. They look woderful. What a wonderful gift to receive. Tracey
  14. Tea
    I have soaped with soy, and as long as you treat it carefully it works fine. I usually freeze the milk, and then put it into a sink of ice water. I buy a bag of ice and add that to the water. Even still, don't add the lye too fast, and stir, stir stir, even after the lye has disolved. Hope it works out for you. Tracey
  15. Tea
    I know when I am making liquid laundry soap, that it has a very low super fat level. Tallow is also supposed to be a good "cleaning" soap. So make a liquid soap with say tallow and olive might be a place to start. Or even start with a soap bar and make that into a gel? I remember we used to use a very hard piece of soap in a wire frame for the dished, that was swished around iin the water. I was wanting to try a pure tallow soap, with very low sf, and see if that worked. Let me know what you discover.
  16. Tea
    Well, I am 34 weeks pregnant now, and apart from the first 3 months, when I couldn't stand the smell of anything, I have soaped continuously. Just make sure that the lye is being blown away from me, and follow the usual safety precautions, and everything has gone well. We still use our fagranced soaps in the bath, so I can't see what difference it makes, making the soap. Just my thought. Tracey
  17. Tea
    You can swirl in a log mould, but you need the base soap to be poured just at light trace. Then pour in you colour from a height of about 12" and coming gradually down to 1" height. Then take a chop stick and make long strokes down the length of the mould then zig zag across the width. You can do this a couple of times. If the soap is past light trace, you are better off doing a pot swirl, as the colour will only go in a little way, and sit on the top. HTH Tracey
  18. Tea
    I love using avocado oil in soap. My only drawback is that when used in higher amounts you can't get a nice white soap. So you need to think ahead as to whether you leave it uncoloured or not. Tracey
  19. Tea
    According to the "Soap Naturally" book that I have, and use all the time water discounts for a DWCP are calculated as follows; water amount = NaOH weight divided by 40 times by 60. This gives a 40% water discount amount. water amount = NaOH weight/33*67. This give a 33 % water discount amount. The same for any amount that you need to calculate. I hope this helps. Tracey
  20. Tea
    I have soaped tea on many occasions. I usually use triple strength or more. Usually make up the day before, leave tea bags in for extra strength, then put in the fridge. Measure out what I need, then add lye slowly, trying not to burn too much. Everything has always gone well with no vulcano happening. Try again, only a little slower, and see how things go this time. Tracey
  21. Tea
    Cranberrygirl, the coconut that is in the soap will be fine, it is only the stuff on top that will mould. Unless you go overboard on the coconut in the soap. Tracey
  22. Tea
    Sap value for lard 0.138 sap value for palm 0.141 sap value for palm kernal 0.156 If your original palm used was pko you might want in increase the lard amount a little, otherwise you might end up with a drier soap than usual. Just my two cents worth. Tracey
  23. Tea
    I have soaped with coconut in and on soap. My only problem here is the humidity, which eventually turns the coconut mouldy. But then again it does the same to all dried botanicals too. Certainly try it. It looks good. Tracey
  24. Tea
    WHen making a 100% coconut oil soap, superfat between 15 to 18%. This way the soap will not be drying. Adding Fo's and some cheap Eo's will discolour coconut soap a pinky/ivory colour. I have found though that it doesn't effect the over all quality of the soap. Leave to dry for a good 8 weeks at least, and these are a great hard, lathering soap. It never ceases to amaze me how a normal bar of soap dies in salt water, but this soap works equally well in either salt of normal tap water. Tracey
  25. Tea
    Glycerine, the base of M&P, can only be made by adding oil and lye. It is extruded from commercially made soaps, and also a by-product of diesel manufacturing. I get frustrated when I see people who make M&P soaps, claim how wonderful their soap is for the environment because "they" don't use lye! I started making soap, so I could reduce the amount of chemicals that are used in our household. M&P held too many unknowns and undisclosed for me. At least with CP soap, I know what goes in. Just my two cents worth. Tracey
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