Old Crab

I use 34-40 from C&S, might not be "the" wick for everyone but it does work for me. Not all wicks are equal, and if memory serves Peak uses an odd size or something for their wicks. A mushroom is a mushroom, could get it to occur from a number of different reasons. Not sure what 415 is, I've mixed 4794 with good results with other waxes but I always go back to straight 4794. Easier, less mess, quicker, less chance o add something unintentionally. My wife always tells me to "keep it simple stupid" Lol 2-3 days should be fine for testing, unless the FO is pretty heavy, possibly wrap in an unscented paper towel, and look for weeping if you are trying higher FO %. I work a lot of long hours now, so I make my candles on Saturdays and test on Sundays. So I make in bulk my wholesale, and then I've got testers as well. I love Black Sharpies! As far as your double boiler type system I have no idea. Way back when I first started I had an older lady friend that cared enough to help me with a hobby. She taught me about hot plates, presto pots, electric griddles, etc. I will usually have 8 or 9 presto pots going at a time, depending on what I am making and for who. When I do votives I do 6 pounds at a time, so I still have plenty of wax left over in the pot for repours later. That way when I do my top layer I just reheat the presto and go to it.

You might want to add: First part - How long you mixed your FO before you poured - Brand of the FO. - Supplier of the wick, not all wicks are equal, even same type. when I test I burn 1" per hour, usually. I check and measure (metal ruler) distance of melt pool to glass and depth of melt pool every half hour. I tried to do it hourly but would miss what I was looking for. So, Second part - room test occurred - temperature of room - AC, fans, windows open, anything that could possibly cause a draft. - distance mp to glass, 1/2 hour increments - depth of melt pool, 1/2 hour increments Might seem like a bit too much, but, if you are concerned about temperature of container prior to pour these last ones shouldn't bother you, I would think. I do test burn around 20 candles at a time so I need lots of notes.

1oz per pound, by weight - not volume - is typical. Depending on the manufacturer of the FO I have seen as high as 1.75oz per pound with no weeping with straight 4794. It was a premium special order uncut FO and I was testing some melts. Candles are fun, lots of testing involved. It could be as simple as mixing temperature, amount of time the wax stayed in your pot before pouring, incorrect wick, a particular wick that does not play well with your chosen FO, remaing wax for top layer heated to high to fast, etc. If your FO is fresh and you are mixing properly, pouring in time, repouring with same wax - not making up a new batch then I would start looking at your wick and your surroundings. AC vents, fans nearby? How long do you let the candle cure for before you light it. What type of holder are you using for the votive? A nice tight fitting holder is best, not flower pot votive holders - IMHO. I use 4794 and 1oz per pound of FO and a cotton wick, and I'm a bit controlling... My votives sit for a week before I sell/burn them. Melt your wax, stable the temp 170-185F (depending on scent type), add dye, mix, add FO mix, stir, chant, swear, giggle whichever works and pour. Let sit a few hours reheat wax to your desired temp (some say previous pour temp +10 degrees, I do not) and pour your top layer (I use metal votive cups). Let sit over night and pop out of molds while hoping you don't crack them when pulling out wick pins. Sometimes I forget to spray my molds. Lol I use to use zinc without issues but I got tired of explaining that it wasn't lead. Edit: Do not expect more HT from a votive than what it can possibly do. Think of them as baby container candles, that is basically what they are. Mostly used for mood lighting, multiples in a room, and what not.

Are you using wick stickums or glue dots? Huge difference. Glue dots are fine if they are "fresh" "new" otherwise they are a waste of money. I've had good luck with glue dots from Bitter Creek & CS - haven't tried any from the others. I thought about using glue sticks but some of my jars are double / triple wicked. Glue sticks and multi-wicker would get ugly in my thoughts.

How much FO are you using per pound? That could be the culprit. Are you using any other additives with your formula or just 4794 straight?

Hello & welcome. If I remember correctly I used htp 83 or 93 depending on the scent and the percentage in jelly jars. I only had so so luck with the htp, LX seemed to work better than the htps - for me. I had much better results using cd 7 or cd 8. There are some different opinions as to when you should get a full melt pool. Maybe I am aggressive in my wicking, but I believe that container candles should reach a full melt pool the first time they are burned. I do admit though that the cd 6 or cd 7 seem to burn a little better than the 8 in the jelly jars but will take longer to reach full melt pool. I've tried the LX wicks and I do like them but I always go back to the CDs. As far as 4630 the best results I got were with cd 10 & cd 12 in jelly jars. I felt they were too large but they worked better than the cd 8.

Ditto

Wellington Fragrance in Michigan will. They do need a sample, a small fee, and I believe 25 pounds of product to be purchased as well.

Betterbee and other bee keeper type suppliers have silicone type molds for votives that do that.

If I had to guess, and 4627 is not an option, then I would pick 4630. 6006 would be the parasol version.

I would cheat and use CD-8 through CD-12 and make one of each. All depends upon your formulation. I would think CD-8 would be plenty, maybe even CD-7.

Thank you

Chris it looks very nice! I noticed you accept credit cards at the show. How do you do that? I've been considering getting one of those "thingys" for my iphone.

I am very surprised you had issues with the FOs from Candle Science, with that wax. I use 4627 and have had the issues you've described in the past with another supplier. I do use 4627 with CS's you've mentioned without issue. I always heat my 4627 to 200, and let it cool. It seems to lend better when I take it up and then drop the temp. Once it hits 190 I add my color, at 185 my FO, at around 170-175 I pour. I keep it to 9% FO or less, the CS FO I keep at 6%. I'm surprised you would use 4627 for clamshells though, would be a bit messy wouldn't it? HTH

I just googled real quick as I'm stuck in traffic. Here's a company that offers something that I'm thinking of. http://www.custompapertubes.com/luxury/cosmetics_packaging.htm

Do you mean the ones for paper tube type packaging?

Well I started to test burn these yesterday. The cd-10 wicks continuously drown out, doesn't matter if plain or scented. The cd-12 did ok but no where close to reaching a melt pool, and even though I used 1oz pp and let them sit the hot through was very light compared to my parafin blends. I will try the cd-14 tonight but I have a feeling I should have started with cd-16. Oh well.

Even when paying by credit card they take awhile to send orders through, I have waited over 2 weeks to have orders shipped. Not received, but shipped. I only ever order from BCN when no one else has it, I would rather pay more $$ to another supplier. They have gone downhill ever since Doneen left a few years ago. The few times I've ordered from BCS they have been great, no issues. Which in a way surprises me since they are the same company. Flicker is a great resource, I have personally talked with her a number of times. Thank God for Peak & Candle Science.

This could be really wrong, but it is just my opinion... From what I have learned is that the wick charts are based on parafin wax, no scent, color, additives, etc. I also believe the charts are old. Pre blended waxes. I almost always have to wick up, except for my votives. IGI 4794, 1oz FO per pound, liquid dye, and using 34-40c wicks. Sometimes I'm amazed by some of the wicks I will read about being used. For example 8oz jelly jars I typically use cd-8 wicks with 4627 wax. I've read about people using cd-12 & even cd–14 wicks in this combo - whatever works for them I guess. Best thing I've found is to pick one wax, one container/pillar/style of candle get it right and go from there.

Zinc wicks are the easiest to use but mushroom, for 6006 I use CD wicks. CD wicks are my "go to" wick

Where do you get the plastic dust covers? I got some from BCN north and they do not fit at all

I really like how you went the extra step and have color at the base of the candle. Nicely done!

You should sell the mold to flexible molds and retire

More FO does not always mean more scent throw, sometimes it will make it worse or adversely affect the burning characteristic you are trying to achieve. In my opinion with the 4627 / 4794 blend you shouldn't have to worry about how much FO you are using till you hit around 25-30%. That is, if you are using more than 1oz pp. if you are using 1oz pp you shouldn't have any issues with however much your percentages are on the blend. I do know that once you hit a 30% of 4794 the wax, still creamy, is definitely much firmer.

Great ideas - thank you both. I did email IGI as well - good luck with that I'm thinking. I'll do a bit more research and see what kind of materials and such are available and do some tests on some old bottles when I can.