Old Crab

A picture would definitely help.

Not sure what to do. I have a friend that is a home brewer making wines and she asked if I could supply her with different colored wax to seal her wine bottles. I briefly looked online and I have noticed a similar wax being used for sealing documents and using a ring. I might have put that badly. Anyway - any ideas on a suitable wax I could use for this? I'm assuming it needs to be paraffin or beeswax or a lend of the two. I'd hate to tell her to just buy what is offered since she is a friend but i may end up doing that. Tia

I realize this post is is back in August last year, but where did you find a gargoyle mold to use? He is just super cool! I have an old Gargoyle downstairs my sister brought home for me from her trip to Europe a few years ago - the wife makes me keep it in the basement.

These are just for reference in the Photo Gallery. There is a small discussion in the Veggie Wax section.

Or, you could just not wick it and sell / gift them as a presentation, table setting type piece. I would hate too burn that - It is beautiful!

These are next day pictures. I noticed that the Lavender has a discolored top - pretty weird, and I am wondering if it is from the bowtie... but the bowtie wasnt on the whole time. Also, the white, natural, ones in the back you can almost see a small ring going around the wick - about a 1" diameter.

These are my pictures within a few hours after pouring. When I noticed the tops starting to "crumble" is when I took my bowties off.

Well, I poured 6 tumblers tonight of the coconut wax - it kind or reminds me a little of 6006. I did 3 pure plain Jane, nothing added and 3 with lavender vanilla. I did 3 of each because of wicks cd10, 12, & 14. I heated to 200, cooled to 185, added color, added scent, and poured at 175 - obviously the plain I just poured at 175 Anyway, they turned out very beautiful. Zero wet spots, a pretty creamy color. I do have an issue at the wick area though, it looks like the wax cooled there first / faster and kinda chipped/cracked away from the rest of the candle. I am sure a heat gun would take care of that since it is cosmetic but i hate adding another step. I wish I could figure out how to post a picture from my iPhone. I wasn't sure how hot to pour, so I treated it like i treat 4627. Accu blend says to pour around 200 I believe. Should I have poured hotter than 175? I will try to get the pics up tomorrow. Did you see that I said ZERO wet spots.... I wonder if that will be permanent or if it will eventually spot.

Sweet! Shame we can't get it anymore. I wonder if we could talk Peaks into carrying it. I would buy it - both the coconut & the Apricot waxes. There are a couple of other suppliers that I can think of that would do well with these also.

Could also try to double wick with RRD 29 - that's what I usually use on my apothecary jars.

Definately need a bigger wick. I'm not sure of your diameters, I must have missed it, but a 3" diameter (9oz Hex) a CSN 14 or RRD 40. The RRD 40 is a bit hot but works nice, the CSN 14 in a 3" does take a few burns to catch up. When I have time I'm going to bump up the CSN 1 size and down the RRD 1 size for this jar. I've always had great luck with the RRD wicks in Palm and I'm just now testing with the CSN wicks.

I will say that I have zero knowledge of how to use soy wax. If it is anything like paraffin, it's easier, healthier, and less stressful to just ignore the wet spots. They will be there, small or large. Just ignore them.

Hello Not sure if you have contacted Mann Lake Ltd. 800-880-7694 they are in Minnesota and are pretty friendly. Also - I googled and came across the following, unfortunately it is not the site I was looking for but may help: http://www.beesource.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-191354.html The bottom info is found at the below link. http://bindaree.com.au/hints/beeswax-filtering-tips/ From: LLOYDSPEAR Date: Tuesday, 10 September 2002 11:14 PM Frank asked how to ‘efficiently’ purify hundreds of pounds of beeswax to a candle grade. First, what is a candle grade? Roger Morris once told me how to tell is to burn some. If it smokes, drips, or both, the level of impurities are too high. Candles made following of the replies that I have seen so far on Bee-L will not meet this test…at least for processing ‘hundreds’ of pounds. I only know of two relatively SAFE ways of processing large quantities of beeswax to a true candle grade. One is to buy the Maxant Series 900 Wax Processing tank. Around $600, I think. 978-772-0576. It works by vigorously boiling wax and water, allowing the gunk to fall to the bottom, then draining off the pure wax on the top. This is a large self-contained and self-heated unit that really does the job. The second method, which is considered a closely-guarded secret by some, is to use the same kind of filtering device used for processing maple syrup. As these devices are ‘mass produced’ they are relatively inexpensive for the amounts they can safely process. The entire filtration line is constantly heated, which is a requirement when working with beeswax. A variety of filtration devices can be used, including diatomaceous earth. Should you choose to go that far, you can produce ‘white’ beeswax (its natural color) as the diatomaceous earth will remove the grains of pollen that gives beeswax its ‘normal’ yellow color. Many companies manufacture this equipment. As a start, try Dominion & Grimm. 802-893-3487. Hope this helps, Lloyd Lloyd Spear, Owner of Ross Rounds, manufacturer of comb honey equipment for beekeepers and Sundance pollen traps. Hope this helps

Omg & wow I hate apples spell checker - that was a horrible post I did. Well it arrived - I'm so glad they wrapped it in a bag. Very fragile, big chunks broken and such. Which will be nice when I go to break it down more.

I wish I could remember.... Once upon a time I was (still am) interested in beeswax. I did find a message board, very much like this one. It was very helpful, I'm sorry I do not remember the name. Google with luck.

Wow! I love the green apple candles, very nice. They remind me so much of what my palm candles look like, without the darker top. I guess if you are using the TP palm stearic, pouring at a high temp will cause it to have patterns like palm. Most of the stearic candles I've seen have been plain white, or solid, with a glossy type looking coat. I hope that made sense.

Same address, two different phone numbers and they insist that you call the other number instead of just transferring you. I guess it's all about keeping up the illusion for those that don't do their research. On the accu blend website it I'd mention free samples. I was willing o pay shipping, and when I asked - and offered - I was told no. That it is a mistake and that the website has just never been updated. I'm not truly into bashing companies, but I would think that if a mop any no longer offers a product or service I would think their website would reflect properly. Especially when I was told they haven't offered free samples in years - so not something new which I Luke understand. Oh well.... Wish my simple old show up

Well Linda, I took a chance last week and ordered some coconut wax. I did try to call Accu-Blend ~ very sad customer service... then I called the California Candle place, was a bit better but I got the feeling that I was interrupting something. Anyway, hopefully my sample box will arrive soon. I did find out that the Apricot wax is done by special order only, and 1 pallet at a time. No samples, nothing to buy to try... that's a leap of faith if I ever saw one. I did try to find out what the percentage of the wax was coconut wax, but they would just tell me it is a blend of natural waxes.

Hi Flicker Is that the diameter of the lid or the jar? I am looking for a jar no wider than 3 1/2, so I am guessing the lid would be under 3".

I've been testing a number of blends lately and I just can't satisfy my curiousity. So I have been doing some research into straight paraffins and additives. Earlier this week I was checking out stearic acid and came across a few sites selling pure stearin candles. These sites were all Scandinavian, UK, European. There really is no help (reference material, books, formulas, etc.) that I've seen so far on making a pure stearic candle except: 1 water bath (not sure why since stearin will shrink and I've Never used a water bath for any of my molded candles. Still don't understand why you would need to.) 2 pure cotton wick - no info on type though. 3 extremely brittle - sounds like palm pillar candles :smiley2: I understand the benefits of adding stearic to wax, I assume that here in the US we don't make pure stearic candles due to cost - and lack of knowledge?? Has anyone made a pure stearic / stearin candle? If so would you mind sharing your results / information please. I would really appreciate the help, either by PM or here in the forum. I'm thinking of trying it - just for fun. Using the TP palm stearic. I knew I should have paid more attention in chemistry class! I have to admit I have more fun testing than I do making the buggers. Lol Thank you

I agree. To me it is a devious thing to do to customers. I just want you to know I posted what I had read - not that I believe in it.

Make hurricanes

In case you are still wondering, yes 4627 is food grade. I also know that by law, not sure whose law - cant remember where I read it, but if a candle has at least 10% beeswax you can call it a beeswax candle.

Hello It has been awhile since I have messed with any of the palm wax. I've looked at a few of the suppliers websites an most say anywhere from 3% to 5% FO Load. I looked at my notes and I had one supplier telling me I could load as much as 9%. Types of palm - I got samples from: Peaks, BC, Candlewic, & C&S What FO load do you think would be good? Second question, How long do you recommend for cure time? In the past it took forever - I'm thinking I had some formula that has since been changed. What I have is no longer offered by anyone. TIA