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wthomas57

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wthomas57 last won the day on October 12 2017

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About wthomas57

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  1. wthomas57

    HELP PLEASE 6006 wicking & FO

    I disagree with cure time. A couple days is usually plenty for 6006 but it doesn't hurt to wait longer if you want. Your biggest issue is the wick. That wick size is awfully large for your container. Heck, you may be burning off half your scent with that wick. Back that down several sizes. Also, that vybar you are adding is trapping your scent. 6006 is pre-blended with vybar already. You need 0 vybar in 6006. So get rid of that entirely. Finally... something else to try. Increase your melt to about 190 and then add your FO at 185. Temp drops as soon as you start adding FO. If you pulling off heat at 180, then starting to add FO. you could easily be around 170 by the time you are really mixing it in. Many FOs dont blend well until they are 180-185. My standard practice is melt to 190-195, pull from heat and add dye if applicable. Add FO at or just below 185. Pour at 170 You also could be getting weak throw because of the FO's you are using. Try some Mac Apple or something very common and use that as your baseline. I've never used either scent you are using but perhaps they are just super light. Hope this helps.
  2. wthomas57

    6006 cure time

    I've used 6006 for years and these extra long cure times of like 2 weeks is just not necessary. Sure... you MAY get a i bit more noticeable HT or CT after they sit longer, or it may be because you spent time away from the candle and not used to it. My test results have never been different after a couple days vs a couple weeks, especially with wicking. It is mostly parrafin after all. Ive reached out to manufactures and distributors before and asked about cure times.. and most laugh at the idea of letting cure for a couple weeks. Most say 2 days is plenty. Just my two cents. If you notice otherwise, then go with what you think. For me... a couple or few days has always worked fine.
  3. Have you tried 6006? (Its more parrafin). Its pretty straight forward and not bad to scale. Yes you can still have some "fixing up to do" sometimes from dips or holes, etc. But hard to find a worthwhile wax that doesn't have that. Do you poke relief holes? That helps a lo. If you do that a couple hours into the cure it makes a big difference. Yes it takes some extra time, but it rids you of hidden craters later on that lead to poor candles. If you are wanting it to scale and NOT need that extra attention like slowing down cure, poking relief holes, etc... that I am not real sure. Most waxes I have ever used need that to a degree. You can try Clarus waxes as well. I like all their soys better than I like 464.
  4. Welcome! What you are describing is actually more of a characteristic of using 464... not 4630. 464 is known for that. Also, over the past year soy has suffered major issues. So i would be looking at your 46r being the problem. Not the 4630. All that being said... slow down your cure but covering them while they cool..pre hest jars if u have to in order to slow it down. The wax is contracting so much leaving craters and air bubbles probably too which wxplains why they show up after burning as well. Paraffin coolers down more quickly as well so gind that right pour temp and slow down your cooling after you pour. Good luck
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