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wthomas57

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wthomas57 last won the day on October 12 2017

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About wthomas57

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    candles

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  1. Yah, I could care less about the color of candles... but hands down, customers prefer color. Its not even close. Especially around holidays. Someone mentioned they dont like the cost of coloring (dont remember who), but there is VERY little cost.... I mean, pennies per candle if that. A few drops of color cost nothing. I think the most any candle has cost me in color was still under 10 cents and that was to get a true red or black. The worst part about color is having to deal with the color, lol. But you get used to it. Its not that I dont sell any that are non-colored. But colored sells about 20-1 for me now over the long run. Actually its much higher than that. The 20 to 1 ration included scents that make sense to be white or creamy with no color. So, those are non colored anyways. All in all, I will sell 0 blue spruce that are off-white while selling 50 that are colored.
  2. wthomas57

    Hacked---AGAIN! Anyone else?

    I don't use prepaids so not sure. I use a business credit card for my inventory and material purchases. And, by the way.. Aztec was one of the ones I had issue with as well. Which is a bummer because I like them.
  3. I have a sample of it but haven't tried it. For me I chose 3022 as a more soy based option than 6006. Its hard for me to leave 6006 for something similar that I already know so well. But would love to hear some feedback on it.
  4. wthomas57

    Hacked---AGAIN! Anyone else?

    This happened to me twice... both from 2 of our candle suppliers. So yes, its a real concern. They all need to up their security game. At first I was getting a lot of bogus deflecting and passing the buck. And general customer service has no idea about security so they responses and attempts and trying to explain or mitigate fault was just hilarious. I still use one of them but cautiously with a single card that I watch a lot. I typically keep it locked until I need to use it just to be safe.
  5. wthomas57

    WOODEN WICK

    PROs: more intriguing Better and quick full melt pools (without being overwicked) crackling.... not consistent though. Easier to get a good wick size (and less choices. testing is easier) CONS: More expensive I think the wick tabs are a huge pain in the A$$ Inconsistent crackling Limited suppliers and limited quality Generally more soot which freaks some people out
  6. wthomas57

    fragrance flashpoint

    I dont think think that curing is a myth, but I think people have different results. Some environments have different cure times. Different FOs have different cure needs. Also, some noses are more sensitive to smell than others and find their candles plenty strong just 1 day later. I know people who use my wax of choice and say they get different HT and different wicking actually after a couple weeks cure. But, not for me at all. I test every new scent/jar/wax/wick combo 2-3 days cure and then again at 2 or 3 weeks. Its always the same for me. I see WAY more vairance in the wax we receive from our suppliers that have an effect on our finished products much more than cure time does. That is scary. Anyway, thats just my experience.
  7. Parasoy (6006) for most my candles. Cleaner burning than straight parrafin, can tell customers I have candles that are partial soy (which helps believe it or not) and I like the creaminess. But, I also just know this wax the best and its nuances. Years of working with has made me most comfortable with it, although its still not perfect. Depening on the jar and the FO, I use many different ones including HTP, CD, Premier, LX, wood wicks, and zinc. Next parasoy choice would be Clarus 3022. I prefer everythign about it over 6006 except the HT is weaker than 6006. That is the only reason it hasn't replaced 6006 for me. Wicks: HTP, CD, Premier, Wood wicks, and Paper When using just parrafin, I use 4630 for the smoother/creamier look. And I use mottling for my mottled candles. Mottling wax is much tough to work with, but my customers love it. HTP, Premier, and Paper mostly.
  8. wthomas57

    HELP PLEASE 6006 wicking & FO

    I disagree with cure time. A couple days is usually plenty for 6006 but it doesn't hurt to wait longer if you want. Your biggest issue is the wick. That wick size is awfully large for your container. Heck, you may be burning off half your scent with that wick. Back that down several sizes. Also, that vybar you are adding is trapping your scent. 6006 is pre-blended with vybar already. You need 0 vybar in 6006. So get rid of that entirely. Finally... something else to try. Increase your melt to about 190 and then add your FO at 185. Temp drops as soon as you start adding FO. If you pulling off heat at 180, then starting to add FO. you could easily be around 170 by the time you are really mixing it in. Many FOs dont blend well until they are 180-185. My standard practice is melt to 190-195, pull from heat and add dye if applicable. Add FO at or just below 185. Pour at 170 You also could be getting weak throw because of the FO's you are using. Try some Mac Apple or something very common and use that as your baseline. I've never used either scent you are using but perhaps they are just super light. Hope this helps.
  9. wthomas57

    6006 cure time

    I've used 6006 for years and these extra long cure times of like 2 weeks is just not necessary. Sure... you MAY get a i bit more noticeable HT or CT after they sit longer, or it may be because you spent time away from the candle and not used to it. My test results have never been different after a couple days vs a couple weeks, especially with wicking. It is mostly parrafin after all. Ive reached out to manufactures and distributors before and asked about cure times.. and most laugh at the idea of letting cure for a couple weeks. Most say 2 days is plenty. Just my two cents. If you notice otherwise, then go with what you think. For me... a couple or few days has always worked fine.
  10. Have you tried 6006? (Its more parrafin). Its pretty straight forward and not bad to scale. Yes you can still have some "fixing up to do" sometimes from dips or holes, etc. But hard to find a worthwhile wax that doesn't have that. Do you poke relief holes? That helps a lo. If you do that a couple hours into the cure it makes a big difference. Yes it takes some extra time, but it rids you of hidden craters later on that lead to poor candles. If you are wanting it to scale and NOT need that extra attention like slowing down cure, poking relief holes, etc... that I am not real sure. Most waxes I have ever used need that to a degree. You can try Clarus waxes as well. I like all their soys better than I like 464.
  11. Welcome! What you are describing is actually more of a characteristic of using 464... not 4630. 464 is known for that. Also, over the past year soy has suffered major issues. So i would be looking at your 46r being the problem. Not the 4630. All that being said... slow down your cure but covering them while they cool..pre hest jars if u have to in order to slow it down. The wax is contracting so much leaving craters and air bubbles probably too which wxplains why they show up after burning as well. Paraffin coolers down more quickly as well so gind that right pour temp and slow down your cooling after you pour. Good luck
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