MoonShadow Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 After years of candle and M&P, I took the plunge and made my first batch of CP soap last night. For two months I read and read and read everything I could get my hands on, (including all the tips from the masters here) A couple of books, creating checklists and many Youtubes videos later, - I went for it.My first recipe is: Superfatted at 8%:Castor Oil at 1.82 Oz.Coconut Oil at 9.09 Oz.Olive Oil at 14.54 OzPalm Oil at 9.09 OzShea Butter at 1.82 Oz(I can get all the oils withing two miles of my house)Lye 4.97 OzFiltered Water 11.60 OzScented with White Musk.Blue Mica for swirls.I was surprised at how smoothly things seem to go, cuz I was REALLY afraid I'd screw it up. A stick blender really speeds up trace, but I was able to control it.I wrapped the baby up with 4 towels and put it to bed.The biggest challenge so far? O...M....G. How do you guys wait and not peek??? Argh! My hubby was making fun last night, because patience is not my strongest suit.But I'm being good. :tiptoe: (It's killing me)Very exciting stuff so far! But I'm prepared for a less than perfect first attempt...like failed swirls, or I screwed something up in the recipe... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck_35550 Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Well, the honest answer for me is that I always peek if gelling and give the mold a feel with my hand. Be sure and post some pics.Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitn Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 I peek too, to make sure it is all gelling and see if it might be to hot.. I always have to try an end of the soap after I cut it, even tho it is the same recipe I have used for years.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackie Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 I've only made 2 batches but I peeked on the first one to see if gelling and washed my hands with a sliver of both right after cutting (made sure there was no zap first). Can't help myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beelady Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 I've been making soap for many years and I still peak.. I even went on a tour at the zum soap maker factory which makes all natural soaps in Missouri and they told me they even peak.. They said it's very important while your soap is curing.. Helps you make a better product... And I still don't have patience in waiting either..:rolleyes2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Being a non-soaper, I don't understand what's wrong with taking a peek - can someone enlighten me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonShadow Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Well, as I suspected...I experienced #swirl-fail. LOL But all in all not too bad. They smell good! Even hubby likes the smell. They're pretty much invisible. I KNOW I have a LOT more to learn about colors. The soap is beige, and still pretty soft and sticky...Is that normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soycrazy Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 (edited) That looks great for your first time I always peek, I'm afraid it will overheat and crack which I get a lot in my logs ugh. Though hubby forbids me sometimes for peeking lol. Pam if you peek too much you can get it to cool down and get a half gel. It's just cosmetic though you can still use it Edited January 18, 2012 by soycrazy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I think your soap looks lovely. As it dries, the swirls may become more prominent... or not... LOL It's still pretty!! Congratulations!! I have this same problem sometimes and I try to make sure there is a lot of contrast between the colors until I learn more about how the different colors and colorant types behave... I admit it - I DO peek, but only for a teensy second or two, then I wrap it back up nice and snug so it'll gel its little heart out.. Once, when I DIDN'T peek, I had a volcano in a Pringle's can...*faint* Actually the soap looked very cool when I demolded & cut it - like faux bois (fake wood) slices. But I wouldn't do it again on purpose LOLOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kssoaper Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Regarding peeking - - - I'm not sure what the deal is with that.... been making soap for over 15 years, never cover the soap and can watch it from start to finish...Is the main 'fear' letting the warmth out? I pour my soap in a deep box so the bars are technically standing up - so it is deep. Some fragrances generate a lot of heat and I do sometimes get a crack in the surface.... but never cover.......guess my soap comes out ok - people still buy it ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soycrazy Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I also keep peeking to minimum to avoid ash. In my experience you let the warmth out and you get ash. So I try to keep it covered until it's done doing its job. I wish I could keep it uncovered that would make my life so much easier lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonShadow Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 (edited) Thanks everyone! I think they came out good enough to get me hooked. I am already plotting my next batch. I do have a couple of questions though.I have heard that CPOP soap is not as hard, and colors not as bright as CP soap. Is that true? Is it better to add water dispersible titanium dioxide to the lye solution right before blending it with the oils to make the base color brighter, or is it better to add the oil dispersible TD to the blended base right before trace? Edited January 18, 2012 by MoonShadow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 (edited) I pour my soap in a deep boxThe shape of the mold makes a LOT of difference! Had I left more "head space" my volcano would not have occurred.Is it better to add water dispersible titanium dioxide to the lye solution right before blending it with the oils to make the base color brighter, or is it better to add the oil dispersible TD to the blended base right before trace?I add colorants right before pouring. I have noticed that stirring thickens the soap, so I try to start out with a far lighter trace than I need to end up with, if that makes any sense. Edited January 18, 2012 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Thanks everyone! I think they came out good enough to get me hooked. I am already plotting my next batch. I do have a couple of questions though.I have heard that CPOP soap is not as hard, and colors not as bright as CP soap. Is that true? Is it better to add water dispersible titanium dioxide to the lye solution right before blending it with the oils to make the base color brighter, or is it better to add the oil dispersible TD to the blended base right before trace? CPOP can get just as hard as CP. It still requires a cure. I have never added TD to the lye. It won't make the color brighter, it will make it whiter, in other words lighter or paler.e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 (edited) Regarding peeking - - - I'm not sure what the deal is with that.... been making soap for over 15 years, never cover the soap and can watch it from start to finish...Is the main 'fear' letting the warmth out? I pour my soap in a deep box so the bars are technically standing up - so it is deep. Some fragrances generate a lot of heat and I do sometimes get a crack in the surface.... but never cover.......guess my soap comes out ok - people still buy it )Same here, 9 years soaping, no blankets here. I use mostly slabs, some logs, a wooden lid, that's all.e Edited January 19, 2012 by eugenia Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 (edited) no blankets here. I use mostly slabs, some logs, a wooden lid, that's allI want to make sure I understand... No matter what shape or depth mold or mold material you use, you simply cover it with a wooden lid and always get a full gel? I wonder why so many people recommend insulating molds (other than wooden molds with lids) to retain even warmth for a complete gel... Not to mention folks who put their soap on a heating pad to insure even warmth during the gel phase... Now I am confused... Edited January 19, 2012 by Stella1952 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonShadow Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Oh boy...so am I now...I want to make sure I understand... No matter what shape or depth mold or mold material you use, you simply cover it with a wooden lid and always get a full gel? I wonder why so many people recommend insulating molds (other than wooden molds with lids) to retain even warmth for a complete gel... Not to mention folks who put their soap on a heating pad to insure even warmth during the gel phase... Now I am confused... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eugenia Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I want to make sure I understand... No matter what shape or depth mold or mold material you use, you simply cover it with a wooden lid and always get a full gel? I wonder why so many people recommend insulating molds (other than wooden molds with lids) to retain even warmth for a complete gel... Not to mention folks who put their soap on a heating pad to insure even warmth during the gel phase... Now I am confused...Stella, yep, I don't even always use the wooden lid. Sometimes I (gasp!) leave the soap bare. You know what? It has never failed to saponify. I used to do all that stuff, measure temps, wrap the molds, blah blah blah.Things I have learned over 9 years of making CP:Room temp oils and lye allow for a much easier soaping experience.If swirls are your goal, use full water and pour the swirls at a thin trace.No need to insulate. In fact, if you do not and you have the soap lightly covered;remove the lid and put your hand over it, you will feel the heat generated by the process of saponification.e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powderblueboutique Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Moon shadow, Oh congrats! I think it was you and another that said you wanted to give it try:)I made hot process for years, but I find cp to be so much different. I wish that I had Eugenia's advice last night. Great advice! I and going to try a couple things tomorrow to change up my " " heating pad mistake.Titanium: I follow .5 tsp per pound of soap. when layering or swirling, weigh out your soap that you want to color with titanium (use your scale). add titanium into the emuslified oil/water once portions are separated (ie: 16 oz = .5 tsp). I find that I have to stick blend titanium, if not, I can't get it to blend. But maybe someone else has a technique better than mine. I hope that made sense. Best wishes, you can do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonShadow Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 Moon shadow, Oh congrats! I think it was you and another that said you wanted to give it try:)I made hot process for years, but I find cp to be so much different. I wish that I had Eugenia's advice last night. Great advice! I and going to try a couple things tomorrow to change up my " " heating pad mistake.Titanium: I follow .5 tsp per pound of soap. when layering or swirling, weigh out your soap that you want to color with titanium (use your scale). add titanium into the emuslified oil/water once portions are separated (ie: 16 oz = .5 tsp). I find that I have to stick blend titanium, if not, I can't get it to blend. But maybe someone else has a technique better than mine. I hope that made sense. Best wishes, you can do it!Thanks! I'm hooked! Even with a big OMH #fail last night, I'm hooked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
showoffs Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Congrats on making your first few batches of cp soap. I am about an hour north of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonShadow Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 Congrats on making your first few batches of cp soap. I am about an hour north of you.Thanks neighbor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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