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Green Leaf (again)


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I got 10 pounds of the 70/30 and it has worked like a charm for me! I've got wet spots, but no frosting. My main computer is down at the moment :cry2: otherwise I'd post a pic too. I think it takes color well, and poured up very smoothly for me. The scent throw is awesome. I too tried the fig dolce and not 24 hours went by and I was burning the candle and getting really good hot throw. I got some of those bean pot jars and I'm using an HTP 105 in it and getting a full melt pool. Oh, and I used 1.5 oz FO per pound. I too love this wax, and if they can get a somewhat better shipping rate I'd order more too.

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I got 10 pounds of the 70/30 and it has worked like a charm for me! I've got wet spots, but no frosting. My main computer is down at the moment :cry2: otherwise I'd post a pic too. I think it takes color well, and poured up very smoothly for me. The scent throw is awesome. I too tried the fig dolce and not 24 hours went by and I was burning the candle and getting really good hot throw. I got some of those bean pot jars and I'm using an HTP 105 in it and getting a full melt pool. Oh, and I used 1.5 oz FO per pound. I too love this wax, and if they can get a somewhat better shipping rate I'd order more too.

That's my feeling. It's a really nice blend, but I wish it were cheaper to ship. I'll have to put that Fig Dolce in wax this weekend. I don't like it oob, but I hate to judge it that way. I have customers who would probably like it, so it's on my to-pour list :)

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Sorry to leave you hanging with the burn info. In regards to the pure soy wax, the adhesion was still 100% until I fired it up. Then most of it came off the glass.

Honestly I can't get this wicked. I tried CD, ECO, & LX. I couldn't get any of them to burn out to the sides completely and give any kind of MP. This seems to be the luck of all the waxes I have been trying for the last six months though, so I am not sure if it is me. Everyone else seems to be able to wick this one fine.

I burned the stem glass shown in the picture for close to 10 hours one day trying to get a full MP. It still didn't happen. The flame is big enough so I don't know what the deal is.

When I burned it the regular amount of time it set up again nicely, but after this power burn it is very cottage cheese like.

I have pulled out some of my CBA to test again to see if it really is me. This was the last wax I could wick easily.

What width is that container you are using? Maybe I can help.

Thanks

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I tried using two containers. One was has a width of 2.75" (straight sided) and the other is a bulb jar. It starts about 2.5 and goes to about 3". I noticed that the melt point is 140 for the pure soy. Maybe you could answer a question for me. Do you know why a wax with a lower melt point would require a larger wick? It seems like it would work opposite.

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I tried using two containers. One was has a width of 2.75" (straight sided) and the other is a bulb jar. It starts about 2.5 and goes to about 3". I noticed that the melt point is 140 for the pure soy. Maybe you could answer a question for me. Do you know why a wax with a lower melt point would require a larger wick? It seems like it would work opposite.
I've found this to be true myself. A larger wick consumes wax faster. With a higher MP more of the fuel will come from right around the wick because not as much is melting from farther out. That makes the wick tunnel down a bit and it's harder to get a wide melt pool. I've seen larger melt pools with smaller wicks in all kinds of candles, paraffin and soy, container and pillar. You have to observe carefully and not only consider wicking up when the melt pool isn't wide enough.
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The Eco 10 and the Eco 8 were too large of a flame for this container. I put a CDN 10 in it. It had a perfect flame but like I said even close to 10 hours of burning and it never burned completely out to the sides.

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Hi all, :)

I just received my slab of the GL 70/30 yesterday. UPS wasn't even gone a half an hour and I had some poured. :yay: I made 2 8 oz Tins and 1 16 oz Balmoral Jar. I will post some pictures. :) I really like the way this wax comes - the slab is super easy to cut. I also love the way you can pour hot and it will set up so fast. :) I had perfect tops but I hit my candles with the heat gun anyway. I always make an "x" with my wick "just in case" there are any hidden air pockets and then I hit the tops with the heat gun. :)

I test burned two of the candles I made today. I always test mine 24 hours after it cures. I figure if a scent won't throw well 24 hours later, I don't want to work with it. There are so many FO's that throw beautifully strong the next day. :)

So anyway, my first tester was an 8 oz Tin - made with 8 oz of 70/30, an ECO 10 wick (first time using Eco wicks), and the FO was GL's Oatmeal Raisin Cookie, 3/4 oz. WOW is this one STRONG. LOVE the FO. :) :) A truly amazing cold and hot throw. We have a big house and when I was coming down the stairs I started to smell this and I had the candle all the way on the other side of the house in our morning room!!!!!! THAT is a strong scent! :) The ECO 10 is too small as it doesn't have a full MP and I have had this burning for 4.5 hours. It almost made it, but I am going to wick up. I didn't get a mushroom for 3 hours into the burn. Normally I use Cotton and HTP wicks and I get awful mushrooms ( :( )...so I have been searching for better wicks - I am liking these ECO's. :)

My second tester is in a 16 oz Balmoral Jar, 8 oz 70/30, GL's Hazelnut Coffee FO, 3/4 oz, and a Cotton 62 wick. Cold and Hot throw very weak - but perhaps this particular FO needs a few more days to cure. A big wet spot - melt pool 'fell' down into so I lost some of the MP, but it came back as the candle burned further.

My third tester is in a 8 oz Tin, GL 70/30 wax, Cotton 62 wick, and GL's Creme Brulee FO, 3/4 oz. I will burn this one tomorrow.

I love the wax so far! I am crossing fingers and toes that it continues to perform well. :) I will be pouring candles all week in various suppliers FO's that throw perfectly in my regular soy blend (no paraffin in my soy blend). I want to add a parasoy to offer my customers. I am sick and tired of the soy characteristics - ESP at craft shows. I want my candles to be purrtty. ;) I LOVE soy, but until a perfected blend comes out, I am going to stop coloring my soy blend candles and test and test until I find a parasoy that rocks so I can add it to my line. :)

Take care, :)

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Yep, I did, and it was too small. Figures.

It seems like the 70/30 is a real hit. And we aren't hearing from anyone elso who has tried the pure soy.

Is it my imagination or do a lot of people not mind using brute force to melt wax? Just put a big enough wick in there and whatever happens, happens?

I see 140 MP for a container wax and I'm like, no I don't think so.

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Now I wouldn't say that Top. We use this wax all the time for our private label customers. It was definitely tested in their glass, along with about every series of wick imagineable to figure out the best series and size to use for their oils. It is a good soy container wax and works well. It is harder, with a higher melt point than most soy container waxes because that's what it took to get rid of the frosting and be able to pour hot in a production environment. We certainly didn't throw the biggest wick at it and "hope" that it worked. It may not work for some - and I would be more than happy to assist Jeana if she really wants to try to use this wax. Even to the point of getting one of her glasses and trying to do it ourself and then getting back with our results and recommendations.

Thanks

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Well I test burned the 70/30 and I got black smoking wicks/soot on the jars, with every wick we tried - Cotton, HTP, and Eco. The Eco's smoked the most. :(

It makes a gorgeous candle, it is easy to work with, and it throws cold/hot WELL (except GL's Hazelnut Coffee had no throw whatsoever)...but I will not burn a candle that soots, much less sell one that soots. :( (huge sigh). I really want a good parasoy blend to offer along with my soy blend...but I am not having luck.

I didn't care for the adhesion either. :( It pulled away except for one spot - and I want it to either completely adhere, or completely pull away...I will attach a picture.

I still have some of the slab left to play with. I might add 50% soy to the 70/30 to see if that cuts down on the smoking.

Take care, :)

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Liljean, I noticed that is a frosted jar in the pic. Did you use frosted jars in all your wick testing? It sounds weird but when I was using frosted jars I always seemed to have more wet spots than when I just used plain glass. (I know they aren't usually frosted on the inside but ...)

Two things I would try: make sure the insides are your containers are VERY clean and dry. No hint of wax, fo, or finger grease of any kind. Secondly, pour cooler, which should make the wax shrink away less from the sides when it sets up.

The only thing I can say about the sooting is to wick down. I know from the other two para/soy blends I've tried I've wicked down 3 (or even 4) sizes of LXs from soy in the same size container. (The GL blends seem to follow this pattern).

I would be very grateful if you would continue to post your results on these waxes - including your mixing experiments.

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I am currently testing the 70/30 as well and I get alot of soot with the Eco 8's in my 8 oz square mason jar. At first i just thought that it was from the draft in the house but after reading your post im not so sure. i also had dancing flames. i had wet spots as well after about 24hr cure time they showed up. The wax took the color great and the tops were as smooth as can be. i only tested two FO's so far. I cant get a cold throw at all. The only time I can smell the candle unlite is when my nose is right on top of the jar. the hot throw is ok, Im not sure if my expectations are too high for this wax or for any of my candles in general, but i couldnt smell the candle when lite more than 4 feet away. Ill be watching this post as well. keep us informed on your progress, If you find the solution to any of your issues please share!

I ordered 5 more lbs. of this stuff on wednesday so hopefully by friday of next week ill have test results for everyone. Wish me luck :wink2: and good luck to you as well

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If the ECO's aren't working for you and the container you are using - I would try an LX or an HTP. Our users are finding that this works for them most times if they move to a different series wick. The ECO-4 has been the wick of choice for the 8 oz jj - but other shape jars may require a different series.

Wet spots and cracks by the wick are shrinkage related as most of you know. I would pour a little cooler (too cool gets jump lines) into a warm (not hot) jar and then cover it with something to slow down the cooling process. If you are in a part of the country where it is still fairly cool outside then this is a definite recommendation. With our wax, it tends to be temperature related and how fast or slow they cool down.

HTH

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Just to clarify, I did contact Brenda directly and she gave me a quote of appx $120 to ship 4 cases of wax to me (that $120 is for the shipping only, not including the cost of the wax). I can get 4 cases of the wax (with same weight) shipped from Candle Science for about $38. I honestly cannot afford to use this wax. Maybe they'll open another store in VA, lol. Would be nice :D

I get my wax from Gateway and they are across the US from me and they got me a great deal on shipping. They actually use a truck line to haul it.

Maybe some of these other companies like Greenleaf can shop with them too if they are a better deal. It would probably help them get more customers to buy their product if they can get the freight prices down.

Rhonda

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  • 3 months later...

i Was Going To Order The Wax From Greenleaf ,but I Searched Out A Candle Supplier In My Area And Ask If They Had A Ez Soy Or A Soy Blend They Had A 70/30 1275 Blend You My Find A Wax In Your Oun Back Yard..it May Not Be Greenleaf But May Be Something Close I Am In The Testing Stage Now I Picked Up A Few Lbs This Weekend ...hope This Helps..

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