Soja Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 OK, here are 2 poured at 218 degrees with preheated molds. Just like the bigger ones. These are with Aluminimum molds which I think make all the difference.Tin just doesn't cut it but Alum. gives nice feathering.Soja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mtngrl Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 Thanks for all your hard work, Soja, and for posting pix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candlesprite7 Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 That's amazing how the different types of molds can do that, I wonder what the results would be with a Poly mold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JudyN Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 OK, here are 2 poured at 218 degrees with preheated molds. Just like the bigger ones. These are with Aluminimum molds which I think make all the difference.Tin just doesn't cut it but Alum. gives nice feathering.SojaI asked you during the last post if you were using aluminum or metal? I've read that aluminum works the best, but when asking people have also said they did well with metal. This is very intersting. I didn't think you were supposed to heat hotter than 210 degrees - at least that is what the palm wax I'm using says????? I have been preheating my molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasterBaker2 Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 Those turned out great. I've been wanting to try doing soy pillars but haven't worked up the courage yet. Good Job.Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnitaG Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 Those are pretty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SheilaW Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 :whoohoo: Those are beauties!! Full on feathering:thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheri Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 Very pretty! It seems your hard work and determination has paid off. Way to go!:highfive: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mei-Mei Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 Beautiful! I'm glad you've finally gotten them the way you wanted them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokin'Hot Posted March 25, 2006 Share Posted March 25, 2006 WHEW! There is nothing quite like the feeling of unmolding a candle and finding it to be PERFECT! Those are beautiful. Your hard work definetly paid off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soja Posted March 26, 2006 Author Share Posted March 26, 2006 To further test our theory, I poured into another tin mold with different capacity. It turned out the same as the other tin mold. :undecided Conclusion:In any tin mold I tried, I could not get the palm to take any other pattern but this one in the pic. Different shapes of mold and different temps/wrapped-not wrapped/pre-heated, not pre-heated... All gave the same pattern. Alum. molds are a different story. They pattern all the way up and down with slight differences I'll attribute to different mold shapes.Now I'm gonna try different Alum. molds... More later.Soja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julwid Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Those are gorgeous. If they need a home let me know lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scentcerely Yours Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Help!!! My candles turn out beautifully every time - but I can't get the wick right. No luck with RRD 55, I tried 2/0 and even doubled them in the same hole. I thought that was going to work with the 55 but then it blew! So, I used everything else I have on hand which was the 44-24-18 and 51-32-18 No Luck!!! I read somewhere to try a #30 or #40 before I have to place another order for wicks could someone please give me some guidance?:embarasse I've posted on several boards and have not had 1 response. I could cry!!! Thanks BK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donita Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Thanks for your hard work Sojo......your candles look awesome now. Donita Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soja Posted March 28, 2006 Author Share Posted March 28, 2006 The ONLY wick I use is bulk LX wick. The bigger ones get LX28 as I go down in size, the wick goes down, 24,22,,, Etc. If my Motherinlaw lights one of my palms in the evening, after supper, I might have to trim it once during the rest of the night. I read in the old board, from the palm makers that LX worked so I tried it and I agree. I also use a wick pin so the wick is not pulled toward the side during drying. I get it at Candlescience because Peak does not have bulk LX, just pre-tabbed.Thank you all for your kind comments.Soja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mei-Mei Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 The ONLY wick I use is bulk LX wick. The bigger ones get LX28 as I go down in size, the wick goes down, 24,22,,, Etc. If my Motherinlaw lights one of my palms in the evening, after supper, I might have to trim it once during the rest of the night. I read in the old board, from the palm makers that LX worked so I tried it and I agree. I also use a wick pin so the wick is not pulled toward the side during drying. I get it at Candlescience because Peak does not have bulk LX, just pre-tabbed.Thank you all for your kind comments.SojaI agree. I've been using the LX28 in my palm pillar and it seems to be working really well (except the flame is too high for my tastes, but I guess that's just a small thing considering how well it's doing otherwise). I too use a wick pin and the bulk LX from Candlescience. Gotta love Candlescience! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scentcerely Yours Posted March 29, 2006 Share Posted March 29, 2006 I noticed I didn't mention the size of my pillar is 3" across and I wasn't sure what you consider a large size. Should I start with the LX28 or would that be too big? Thanks soooo much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcgrayson Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 These are beautiful!I just can't seem to master them. Can you tell me where you get your wax from?Thanks so much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debbie73 Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 Those are beautiful candles! I have not tried the feather palm in the metal molds, I have only used the crystal palm (I think that is what it is called!) They turned out pretty, but then you're not looking for a pattern like the starburst or feather. I love the csn wicks in my palm pillars. I always get a really good burn. For a 3" candle, I use a csn 12. You can do a search about the csn and palm and find more info on it. Also, I do not get a big flame with the csn and palm pillars. It was a whole different story with csn's and containers. I did not care for the large flame and the mushrooms I was getting, so I switched to cd wicks. These worked the best for me.....thank you Jakalex for your help with these wicks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 bcgrayson, what problems are you having making nice palm pillars?This is an OLD thread!!! Lovely candles but the conclusion that the mold composition affects the patterning is not really accurate. Pouring at 195-200°F produces nice crystal patterns, but for even distribution, one has to cool the candles slowly and evenly. I insulate mine (towel, bubble wrap, etc.) or cool in a 200°F preheated oven (turned off when the candles go in) or styrofoam cooler. When making votives, I put a slightly larger mold over the votive to keep it evenly warm. We pour palm wax into molds made from aluminum, tin, steel, plastic & polycarbonate. Each material retains/releases heat differently so heavier insulation for the materials which lose heat more quickly is the key. We use CDN wicks in all of our candles made with wickpins. In the 2 part art molds (plastic) we use square braid. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcgrayson Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 HI!I don't know how I found these old posts! This is the second one that I posted on that was over a year old! I guess I just don't know how to use the site correctly! I am so sorry about that, BUT totally appreciate that you are taking the time to respond to me. Thanks so much!Your information is greatly appreciated and I will again bring up my supplies and try again. I think my problem is that I don't work consistantly on candle making and that makes me forget what I have learned. It is like learning all over again every time. Many many thanks!Corey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mparadise Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 Corey, if you are not making them consistantly I would suggest taking really good notes (should anyway but in this case even more so). That way before you start working you can look back and review what worked or didn't work before. I also vote for the LX series in palm pillars but for palm containers I prefer ECO wicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stella1952 Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 Awww, don't worry about it, Corey! Just check the date of the posts. Get back on the bandwagon and make a batch of candles. If you have issues, take photos, post and hopefully we can help you with specific suggestions. I sooo agree with taking good, detailed notes! Many of us cannot produce candles on a continuous basis, so knowing where we left off is vital! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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