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"Original" Wax/Millennium Wax


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This is either the best kept secret? Or the best kept worse secret. I have been searching and not much here or the internet about this wax. I know the difference between the "Original" and Millennium but do these have a different name?

 

CBA is pretty much fool proof. at least it was to me until they changed it. I am still grieving.

 

I am not worried about the tops I can use a heat gun.

 

Anyone have any advice on this wax? Are super low temps required for this when melting? Do you find that scents get lost when adding too much to a candle? is 7% really the best load for this wax? 

 

What has been your experience good /bad /ugly?

 

any advice is appreciated.

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3 hours ago, Kelliebeanz said:

This is either the best kept secret? Or the best kept worse secret. I have been searching and not much here or the internet about this wax. I know the difference between the "Original" and Millennium but do these have a different name?

 

CBA is pretty much fool proof. at least it was to me until they changed it. I am still grieving.

 

I am not worried about the tops I can use a heat gun.

 

Anyone have any advice on this wax? Are super low temps required for this when melting? Do you find that scents get lost when adding too much to a candle? is 7% really the best load for this wax? 

 

What has been your experience good /bad /ugly?

 

any advice is appreciated.

Millennium and Midwest waxes can be found at American soy organic and candlesoylutions

 

millennium is a super hard shiny soy wax with pretty good throw and yes it’s best to pour at low temps - following their instructions for temps is best - the tops can be ugly but a heat gun fixes that until you find the right temp for your environment  - I used 8% fragrance with no issue 

Midwest soy I liked better but it does require a longer cure in my experience - I have used it alone and with their soy modifier - the modifier makes it perform more more like millennium, I prefer it alone as it reminds me of my 415 I used to use - I used 8% fragrance with this one as well - I still dabble it in here and there but I don’t use it in on a regular basis only because I’m branching out with other waxes, the whole soy fiasco and changes made has kinda did me in from trusting to continue with just straight soy anymore 

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4 hours ago, moonshine said:

Millennium and Midwest waxes can be found at American soy organic and candlesoylutions

 

millennium is a super hard shiny soy wax with pretty good throw and yes it’s best to pour at low temps - following their instructions for temps is best - the tops can be ugly but a heat gun fixes that until you find the right temp for your environment  - I used 8% fragrance with no issue 

Midwest soy I liked better but it does require a longer cure in my experience - I have used it alone and with their soy modifier - the modifier makes it perform more more like millennium, I prefer it alone as it reminds me of my 415 I used to use - I used 8% fragrance with this one as well - I still dabble it in here and there but I don’t use it in on a regular basis only because I’m branching out with other waxes, the whole soy fiasco and changes made has kinda did me in from trusting to continue with just straight soy anymore 

Thank you Moonshine.

 

We have a distributer not far from me. The only instructions I could find were on the bag Heat 160, FO 140 pour 120.

There was nothing about Fragrance Oil.

 

What would you recommend as cure time. I didn't see anything on the website.

 

CBA I was always able to test the next day, I hate waiting. lol

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well....this wax can be beauty with the right amount of modifier added with the midwest and proper pour temps along with even cooling, its just a matter of getting to know it well enough

 

Kellie I would suggest letting them cure at least 7 days for the midwest and 4-5 for millenium..... the midwest I have found are stronger and better after a month cure but a week gives you a good idea on the fragrance being compatible or not - as far as pour temps I would pour at slush on both- 120 is still a little to warm for a nicer top and another idea if you like the wax is to add some of the pastilles to the tops of the candle and heat gun them in just enough to stick to give a different look to the candle and hide the bumps if your unable to get them smooth 

 

I do believe candle cocoon has added the midwest to their product line as well - for a soy product these are most certainly the most reliable in my opinion with very little variations lot to lot

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22 hours ago, moonshine said:

well....this wax can be beauty with the right amount of modifier added with the midwest and proper pour temps along with even cooling, its just a matter of getting to know it well enough

 

Kellie I would suggest letting them cure at least 7 days for the midwest and 4-5 for millenium..... the midwest I have found are stronger and better after a month cure but a week gives you a good idea on the fragrance being compatible or not - as far as pour temps I would pour at slush on both- 120 is still a little to warm for a nicer top and another idea if you like the wax is to add some of the pastilles to the tops of the candle and heat gun them in just enough to stick to give a different look to the candle and hide the bumps if your unable to get them smooth 

 

I do believe candle cocoon has added the midwest to their product line as well - for a soy product these are most certainly the most reliable in my opinion with very little variations lot to lot

Thank you again Moonshine. Waiting is the worst part.....lol

 

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22 hours ago, moonshine said:

well....this wax can be beauty with the right amount of modifier added with the midwest and proper pour temps along with even cooling, its just a matter of getting to know it well enough

 

Kellie I would suggest letting them cure at least 7 days for the midwest and 4-5 for millenium..... the midwest I have found are stronger and better after a month cure but a week gives you a good idea on the fragrance being compatible or not - as far as pour temps I would pour at slush on both- 120 is still a little to warm for a nicer top and another idea if you like the wax is to add some of the pastilles to the tops of the candle and heat gun them in just enough to stick to give a different look to the candle and hide the bumps if your unable to get them smooth 

 

I do believe candle cocoon has added the midwest to their product line as well - for a soy product these are most certainly the most reliable in my opinion with very little variations lot to lot

I don't mind using a heat gun when needed. If rough tops were the only problem then I can live with that...lol

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  • 3 months later...

After the soy fiasco, I ordered a 10 bag of Midwest and tested 6 fragrances I knew worked in Soy. I was NOT disappointed. I'm fortunate enough to have a large shop with shelf space and this is how I've made candles since 2001. 

 

I pour my test candles and cure for 6 weeks before burning. Why? Because after sitting that long the scent is better and the wick burns different than a 2-3 week old candle. I make candles in summer for my fall shows and need to have wicks work well in candles that are 2 months old or older.

 

i use Midwest with modifier. Its a 3 hour drive for me so we go with a trailer and make a day of it. 🙂

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5 hours ago, Soy-N-Suds said:

After the soy fiasco, I ordered a 10 bag of Midwest and tested 6 fragrances I knew worked in Soy. I was NOT disappointed. I'm fortunate enough to have a large shop with shelf space and this is how I've made candles since 2001. 

 

I pour my test candles and cure for 6 weeks before burning. Why? Because after sitting that long the scent is better and the wick burns different than a 2-3 week old candle. I make candles in summer for my fall shows and need to have wicks work well in candles that are 2 months old or older.

 

i use Midwest with modifier. Its a 3 hour drive for me so we go with a trailer and make a day of it. 🙂

Jelly that you live so close to the supply. 

 

Midwest soy has proven to be the most consistent in the lots I have purchased. Other than the prill sizes, they look the same too. If nothing else, it’s a good base for blends and a good ingredient to “fix” others. 

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