LCF Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 Its been awhile since posting but I was hoping for some advice. We use 4630 and were pouring in 8 oz tins for awhile. I got tired of all the dings and dents so we switched to glass, and now 4630 is getting sinkholes. I know some will say we can heat the jars first but that is not an option so I was hoping for some other advice? Would a small percentage of pillar wax work? If so, what kind of pillar wax and what percentage? Thanks so much!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 Mixing new wax creates new sets of problems, without necessarily eliminating cavities. The variable that has changed for you is the glass. It cools much differently than the tins you were using creating the environment for cavities (sinkholes). Uneven cooling = high likelihood of cavities. If your candle making space is cool, the glass takes a lot of heat energy from your wax. Two options from different ends of the spectrum: 1) i would first try lowering the pour temp to reduce the shrinkage overall. If the outside cools fast when hitting the cold glass, the internal bit cools slowest, after the top seals over. This causes airto be sucked down the wick as the middle shrinks. Cooler wax shrinks less, so lower possibility of shrink related holes. Cool glass and cool wax can create jump lines, so it may not be the best... 2) increase your pour temp. This will push more heat into the glass to warm it, possibly allowing the rest of the wax to cool more evenly. The heat energy collected in the glass may be sufficient heat sink to control the cool of the rest of the candle. Both of these ignore your ambient temp, so you’ll need to experiment. If the air temp is very cool you may need to explore other options, like a griddle to preheat jars. Justvthought of a third: poke relief holes when the candle is cooled and fill/top off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCF Posted March 13, 2019 Author Share Posted March 13, 2019 Thanks very much for the advice! I will try both raising and lowering temp at pour. Do you think I could have a problem raising temp and burning off some of my fragrance? Some of the flashpoints are around 170 - 180. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 1 minute ago, LCF said: Thanks very much for the advice! I will try both raising and lowering temp at pour. Do you think I could have a problem raising temp and burning off some of my fragrance? Some of the flashpoints are around 170 - 180. Thanks Quality candle fragrance is designed to withstand heat. Palm wax, for instance, is poured at >200*F yet a mere 6% (usually much less) fills a house with scent when wicked well. So, short answer, no worries. Flash point has absolutely nothing to do with pouring temps. 🤗 Here’s a somewhat recent Thread that discusses FP concerns. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 Incidentally, you can quickly and easily raise the flash point of a fragrance or essential oil by simply mixing it with some other liquid oil. The amount is, of course, dependent on the fragrance and carrier used. 🤗 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LCF Posted March 13, 2019 Author Share Posted March 13, 2019 Thanks for the info! There have been times I put fragrance oil in when the temp is way to high and accidentally inhale the vapor. Its made me cough and feel so sick and to this day the fragrance makes me cringe. I always assumed it was because of the flash point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallTayl Posted March 13, 2019 Share Posted March 13, 2019 I get it. The vapors are killer. volatile aromachemicals compounds are designed to launch into the air with heat. That can be mistaken for flashing off. it’s also what makes candles smell when lit and melts throw scent when heated. Here are a couple of recent discussions regarding respirators. https://www.craftserver.com/topic/113856-headache-from-fragrances/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prs7979 Posted October 12, 2020 Share Posted October 12, 2020 In case anyone is still having this particular issue I just figured I’d contribute a solution that works for me. I use 8oz jam jars. I heat my oven to 200, crack it open and set my ready jars on top. Nothing else I do is special. I heat to 190 but after measuring the wax I stir in the FO and stir on top of a hot plate for 120 seconds and then immediately pour. If I forget to do it beforehand I still get sinkholes but if I remember there’s no sinkhole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pam W Posted October 13, 2020 Share Posted October 13, 2020 I use 4630 exclusively for my container candles and sometimes I do get sink holes..for me that is not a big issue because I either do a second pour or just hit the top of the candle with the heat gun to level it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptnKush Posted October 14, 2020 Share Posted October 14, 2020 Sounds like she got the same batch that I received where it sinks just like 4786. 😒 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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