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LCF

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    Soap, Candles, Salves

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  1. Thanks for the info! There have been times I put fragrance oil in when the temp is way to high and accidentally inhale the vapor. Its made me cough and feel so sick and to this day the fragrance makes me cringe. I always assumed it was because of the flash point.
  2. Thanks very much for the advice! I will try both raising and lowering temp at pour. Do you think I could have a problem raising temp and burning off some of my fragrance? Some of the flashpoints are around 170 - 180. Thanks
  3. Its been awhile since posting but I was hoping for some advice. We use 4630 and were pouring in 8 oz tins for awhile. I got tired of all the dings and dents so we switched to glass, and now 4630 is getting sinkholes. I know some will say we can heat the jars first but that is not an option so I was hoping for some other advice? Would a small percentage of pillar wax work? If so, what kind of pillar wax and what percentage? Thanks so much!!
  4. We have been looking for something to make life a bit easier as our business grows to allow us to transfer hot liquids (candle wax, oils, lotions, balms) from our hot water jacket tank to our bottles and jars. We saw WaxMelters and it would cost about 8k to get a system that automates dispensing so that each fill is adjustable to the required fill volume but then we found RiteHete Ez Wax Transfer system and it includes the heated teflon hose, a pump and also a timer to automatically adjust volume and it only costs $1800. Does anyone use any of these systems, or anything similar and comparable in price? We currently pour both by hand and by using a no-drip valve for lotions via a funnel into each lotion bottle, but our candle sales are picking up and we want a versatile system that will allow us to fill everything, and even better if it has a timer to help automate filling. Thanks a lot
  5. 4630 Paraffin wax. We plan to pour directly from the bottling tank, its quick and easy but we can either unplug so it stops heating once we add fragrance, or we can maintain temp. The tank is stainless so cleaning between scents is easy.
  6. We're getting ready to start producing our candles for the upcoming holiday season and as this is our first year we are still working everything out. We have a bottling tank that is part of our apiary and we typically have used it for bottling honey. It has a water jacket that can be temperature controlled up to 250 degrees. We tested it for candle making and it works great and will allow us to melt 15 gallons of wax at a time but we aren't sure about the best method. Lets say we add fragrance at 185 degrees, and begin opening the valve on the bottom to pour each individual candle. It may take an hour to get through them all, so should we be maintaining the temperature at the temp we added the fragrance, or allow it to cool for the hour? We want to make sure we don't harm the fragrance by keeping it consistently warm if this is a risk. I appreciate your advice!
  7. TallTayl, that is very good to know. I use a few different suppliers and I will make sure to keep buying from who I have tested from.
  8. You guys are amazing. I finally, FINALLY have the right wick type. the HTP is burning beautifully but I am still not sure of the exact size I will use, but I am going to test different wick sizes for each scent we're making. We tested HTP 93 and its great but may be a little too hot so we may go down 1 size, and hopefully will make a decision before the end of the week. My next question is, if we were to go up to 8% FO, would we wick up or down? More fragrance, bigger wick, or more fragrance, less wick?
  9. Really? I went based off of the size recommendations I read on FlamingCandle. 52 burns all the way to the sides but I will take your advice and try a 93. Heating up lots of wax right now!
  10. I wanted to update everyone on my wick headache! We tried the HTP wicks. We tested 31, 41 an 52 with our 3 inch tin, 4630 wax. WSP Frasier Fir at 10% and unfortunately the results are not impressive. HT is nowhere near as strong as it should be and the 31 and 41 wicks have awful mushrooms and with low, flickering flames. The 52 wick still has mushrooms, but they are smaller and its burning much better, but its not putting out a HT I would like. I ordered Peaks and CS Frasier Fir as I am dead set on making this scent my first success in time for holiday season. Today I am going to try ECO wicks and see if I get better burns. Any further advice is much appreciated! PS - I know many say 10% is too much which is why I may be having wick issues, but I added more FO because this Frasier Fir is not putting out HT like I expected from previous tests.
  11. I am going to order a sample set of HTP so that I may find the best one. TallTayl, you mention 6% and I am wondering if the throw will still be as strong without going higher? I am trying to make aromatherapy candles that have maximum scent and if I can accomplish the same thing with 6% I will do it. The last thing I want is a fire hazard. What can I do to get a FMP, without causing it to be way too hot in the middle? If I go down a size, won't it cause the MP to be too small? Thanks so much for all the great advice!
  12. Thank you for the advice. I will buy a sample pack of HTP. None of the dealers recommend HTP which is why I didn't bother trying it. Something has to work with this wax!
  13. Thanks for writing Birdcharm. LX30 is where I ended up after none of the lower LX wicks created a burn pool wide enough in 3 hours of burning. I kept going up to see if I would find the right one because I was afraid of tunneling. While we aren't trying to rush, we have been experimenting for some time and still haven't found the right one. I forgot to mention we also tried premiers. Right now we have all size CD, Premier, and LX. I have some zing core on order which will hopefully be here tomorrow or Monday. Thanks!
  14. Hi everyone! I have been a lurker here on the forum for months and have been using lots of advice to help us begin our candle adventure. We are typically a soap company, but we promised our customers we would have a small line of candles out before the holidays and we are determined to deliver. We have been doing an lot of testing and have decided on IGI 4630 or 4627 wax. We prefer the 4627, but they don't offer it in 10 pound slabs and we wanted to do each scent in batches of 10 pounds to try and streamline the process. We are using tins and the ones we like are 3" wide, by 2" tall. Unfortunately we have been striking out with wicks. We have tried everything and nothing is working the way we have read that it should. Fragrance is 10%, and we have tried CD and LX, and we haven't been able to get a test burn to consume almost the entire top of the candle. When it seems as though its burning right, we can look into the candle and see the tab on the bottom which means its burning too hot, correct? We just ordered some zinc core samples because IGI recommends them, but we were hoping to start production this week, but unfortunately we're delayed because of the wick issues. Does anyone have any advice or recommendations? We do like the LX wicks because they seem to not smoke or jump as much, but the latest LX we tried was the 30 and it works great at first, then starts jumping and sooting. Thanks in advance for advice! I look forward to being a member here.
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