back at it. lots of questions

[Gbhunter]

Well its been a bit of time since I have been here. Unfortunately I had to battle a life threatening illness. But im back.

I do have some questions though.

I have 8 oz jars that are about 2.25 in diameter. I use straight soy. I tried Eco 4 wick and it seem to not be big enough it tunnels.

So herevare the questions.

A. Does eco 6 seem too big for said jar? It leaves a sort of deep pool but no hang ups and the flame is nice nice.

B. Do you guys twist the wicks? Especially the ones that curl.

C. How hot is too hot for a jar to be?

D. Does adding FO cause wick size to go up?

E. What does a wax coating on the wick do vs a raw wick?

I use soy-125 from Candlewick to it I add about 8% palm styrine.

Thank you .

[Jcandleattic]

5 hours ago, Gbhunter said:

B. Do you guys twist the wicks? Especially the ones that curl.

C. How hot is too hot for a jar to be?

D. Does adding FO cause wick size to go up?

E. What does a wax coating on the wick do vs a raw wick?

 

B - I only twist my wicks in pillars and that is more out of habit than anything else, because it doesn't change the burn of the candle a bit, ime. 

C- If you cannot comfortably "hug" your jar without it feeling too hot, than it's too hot. 

D- Do you mean do you have to wick up by adding FO? Sometimes yes, sometimes no, depends on the FO

E- In my experience the only thing a wax coating does for me is help the wick to stand straight in my jar candles. YMMV

 

HTH - I don't have answers for A as I don't use that wick series. 

[kandlekrazy]

I agree with J.  I don't use your wax or wicks.  I do twist all my flat wicks before pouring the wax.  I just think they burn more evenly in the jar.

[birdcharm]

E. What does a wax coating on the wick do vs a raw wick?

 

I know that not everyone primes their raw wicks, although I do, as it does make them stand straight, as mentioned.

Supposedly, priming a wick fills in any gaps within the fibers of the wicking to ensure consistent burning.

 

 

[Gbhunter]

Cool. Thank you. It seems the Eco 6 will be the wick. Currently I do not have any FO. How does stirine help FO load?

On a separate issue is there a way to slightly soften palm wax? Currently the only wicks that work for me is 42 ply (kind of thick shell) 45 ply (thin shell).

Also could someone tell me how palm pillars are sopposed to burn? Are holes in the shells normal? Or is it a sign of a wick that is too large?

[Gbhunter]

I have missed being on here.

[Moonstar]

1 hour ago, Gbhunter said:

I have missed being on here.

?

[moonshine]

Wow hunter may I ask what happened?

regardless glad to see your back and ok ?

 

-when I used ECO wicks I believe I was using 464 and 135...with the 8 ounce square mason I used a 10 so try one along with a 6 and a 8 - I'm not familiar with your wax and that will have an impact on burn as they all do not behave the same 

-I use CD wicks and do twist them, not sure why I just do 

-jar is too hot like JC said if you can't hug it 

-FO Can have an impact on wicking so it's very important to test all your FOs 

-I have never used raw wicks and I don't think I ever would 

-styrene?....I don't know what that is and never heard of anyone using that in soy wax 

-I don't use palm but I believe candybee does and maybe she can help with those questions 

 

Edited November 30, 2016 by moonshine

[Gbhunter]

Lol its supposed to be steric not styrine. I add palm steric.

 

I was diagnosed with advanced stage 4 Hodgkins Lymphoma. So that took me out of the running. Unfortunately for me the surgeries needed to identify it have left me disabled. But at least im alive.

[KrisS]

At one point, ASTM had declared that 175° F is the Maximum temperature that the candle container can be at full melt pool.  I, admittedly, haven't purchased the most up to date spec, so that may not be accurate as of today