Henryk

I stuck LX's in mine (I used three different waxes in the past few hours that I completely forgot that I wanted to test-wick these and permanently put the wicks in!). Thanks for letting me know about the cottons - I'll definitely try that as I have a ton of cotton test wicks.

Post of the top of a 6006. That hole needs a repour. Not much. Its at about an inch deep. You can probably heat gun it I guess, but ... I'll post about the other jar types later. The 6006 is definately stronger in cold throw than either CBA IMO.

Closeup of the new. I didn't post the tops of the old as in this case, they look exactly like the new.

Closeup of the old:

Well, here they are. This one is of 4. The first two are the new, the second, the old. These are less than 12 hours old. The old version has large wetspots already.

Halloween is very big here, our BL had their Halloween stuff in last week and there are 3 full isles of the stuff. The one thing I didn't like about the pumpkin jars is they are pre-colored orange. I wanted to do mine in different colored wax to create a display so ....

Later I will post pics, but to complicate things, I poured sets of old and new - NEITHER of them had caves this time! So, this got me thinking, is it the jars? When I last tested the old, I used my standard 7 oz. "Status" jars. I've been testing the new in 7 oz. "votivo-style" jars (you can see them in the other thread) where I had the cave ins. These jars are thicker and a bit more vertical. I thought, wouldn't it be something if it’s the darn jars? Therefore, this morning I poured another set of the old and new - in these jars. They are cooling now. Finally, I poured yet another set (these were all with the same percent FO) with IGI 6006. I have a slight dip at the wick in my status jars, BUT, the cold throw is IMHO MUCH stronger (even at this early stage) and the wax is so much whiter and it cut effortlessly with a knife. So far I like the 6006, but I really need to use it more. I like to do dark colors for fall/winter like last year, so I'm looking back into para/veg blends. I did not color any of the containers, so I don't know how the 6006 will take color. It seems opaque, but the other para/veg wax I used (KY Parasoy) colored much deeper than regular soys I've used (just because there is some paraffin in it would mean that it has to be less opaque than straight soy). Every container wax was poured at ~165F (the temp the waxes are right after adding FO after heating to 175).

Do you find 6006 a one-pour? Just started testing this and so far, for me anyway, its not. Slight dip at wick. If it is for you, can you help? Also, if you've tried more than one of the IGI veg/para container blends, which one tends to me more of a one pour? How about the Astorlite blends, any that give you a perfectly flat surface most of the time? Thanks very much, Henryk

Brooke (et. al.), When you poured the 6006 - did you find it was a one-pour?

I just poured some 6006 today for the first time. Been doing straight soy containers for nearly 2 years. I'll be using 6006 with LX wicks. I couldn't believe how easy it was to cut this wax - like butter as they say. I would love to hear any opinions and test results on 6006 or any of the other IGI "V" waxes.

Let me guess - are these a certain seasonal jar perhaps? (see you mentioned this above). And, do the plastic lids you speak of have a ring of concentric ridges on top? I got the same stuff in, was disappointed also.

http://www.geocities.com/lwoollen_25/FragranceFinder/P.html#PinkT Its not on this list - but I got mine from http://www.thecandlemakersstore.com/category/fragrances.perfume_types.pink_type/. I didn't use it for wax, only for sprays so I can't tell about the throw. For perfume dupes especially, I'd advise you to get small samples first no matter who you get them from.

I would like to know, after reading post after post in the archives, for those who have tried both, do the paraffin/soy container blends tend to smoke more in general than the plain paraffin container waxes? Is there something inherent in a blending of soy with paraffin that causes it to smoke more if its wicked incorrectly? (meaning, which container type, paraffin or paraffin/soy is more "forgiving"). TIA

Great thread. Just wanted to add if "vegans" didn't care if there was beeswax in a product then they aren't vegans. Its like being "half pregnant" - you either are, or you aren't.

Well, I'm going to look at soy/paraffin blends too. I poured a couple with the old and the new CBA today. Tomorrow, I'm going to do the same with IGI 6006. Eventually I'll also try 6098 and 6095. I used the KY Parasoy last year and I loved the way it colored and looked. I only bought a sample, then went back to the regular KY soy after that. It was back in the days when I wanted to use all soy in containers. Nowadays I don't feel that way so thats why I'm in the wax-trying stage again. Funny thing, the wax came, and it was so hot when it arrived it was actually clumping together and felt just as oily as the new stuff! :rolleyes2 I was told by multiple folks that its the old stuff though. I can tell you that the old has much larger flakes than the new. The new's flakes are much more uniform in size also. This is just what I see between my stuff that I have right now - thats not a iron-clad rule I guess depending upon how its processed. I did try to insulate the new ones I poured before - it didn't make a big difference. What did was shutting off my air-conditioners, but thats not an option when its been in the 90s for weeks on end. The coolest I poured was 130. I'll try pouring lower and see what happens I guess, but I really just want to heat to 175, add FO/dye, stir, and pour at 165 - which is where my wax usually winds up at. Whatever wax can do that for me and look good, burn well, and smell at halfway decent if I use FO, then thats what I'll probably end up using.

Per my other post at http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892 I am getting some caves around the wick. I had very little of the old version left (probably about a pound) since I was waiting for this new version to come out. The last time I really worked with this wax our temp/humidity was no where like it is now. So, I ordered more of the old (actually got it today). Now what I'll do is pour more candles at our current high temp/humidity with both the old and the new and see exactly what happens. I'm just concerned about the caves around the wicks because I'm lazy and don't want to poke or repour - never had to with this or my other soys before, so got spoiled - plus I do it enough will pillars I doubt Eco will keep both versions on the market though. If it turns out I have to repour, then I will. FO throw, for me at least, is secondary to a good burn and no frost (I know, most people don't feel that way).

My new stuff wasn't pulling away from the sides at all - therefore, no wetspots (stayed that way for at least three weeks). Now if it continues to uniformly pull away - great. I read that the formula was changed to make the oil in the wax more open - to increase scent throw, and that it is supposed to contract. (Would be great if it was like J300). As far as who has what version, you have to ask unless its on their website (BCN had it since mid-July. The site is not updated to show it but the shopping system is. Click the shopping cart, then waxes, then pick it from the drop down list - you can read a description there also). Candle Science has always carried it so it was on their website - but I called to see what they had in stock and what they where shipping Like I mentioned, you should be able to tell the difference once you've had both. I noticed right away that the new flakes are much more oily in feel - so they changed something.

Jeana, just so you know - if you got yours at CandleScience - then you got the OLD version. BCN and BCS have the new one. (Don't worry about it - the old one IMHO is a great wax). I'm going to be pouring the old with the new (again) this weekend to test - yet again Regarding the wetspots ---- it finally happened after all this time. :-( Still pretty good after all this time. With regular soy I got wetspots almost overnight - this stuff takes a couple weeks, at least in this weather.

WYW and CandleCocoon. (French Color and Shaw Mudge for anything else, though the samples I get on any Peaks orders are really good also.)

I've seen those sizes of LXs recommended on charts for paraffin 3" pillars. In my (I'll admit, limited) experience with 1343 they don't work ... too cool. I don't know how they are getting away with 16 to 20.

itsjustme - yes, the new flakes are oily - the old was more dry. I'm at the point where I'm ready to order some more of the old to compare again to satisfy my curiosity. What was left of my old I made into containers but saved a bit for comparison because I knew I'd get the new version as soon as it came out. I did not have the repour issues with the old version and unfortunately did not have enough left to continue testing side-by-side with the new after the temp/humidity stayed really bad here. I still have candles made from the old version - no frost after all this time - but some wet spots. This new version doesn't wet spot at all for me even in thicker glass containers, which is where I'd see it right away - usually after one day (don't ask me why). The cold throw is definitely better IMO. I still can't decide about hot throw because our air conditioners run all the time. I do stick them in a back room but our place is so small its still hard to tell (and our bathroom is so small its not really a good test!). Plus, and I know its apples and oranges, but now everything seems weak to me (hot and cold) going against the IGI waxes I've been playing around with. islandgirl - I don't think C-1 and S-1 are the same. I actually used to get my S-1 (and their palm waxes) at the place you mentioned so I'm sure I'll try the C waxes since they carry them. They are big Astorlite distributor, but when Astorlite's S-1 soy started being hard to obtain, they got in Cargill waxes instead. I think that is what they mean by "formerly". Unless Cargill bought the S1 formula from Astorlite? I have no idea. I do remember S-1 frosting a bit on the edges after it was burned and set back up - but very little. The surface was flat however. I too remember a less strong throw - but at that time I was happy just to be able to pour hot. There are so many positives to the new CBA (zero frost, zero wet spots, hot pour) that I too think I am going to stick with it for now at least for 100% soy containers even if it means a heat gun or a slight repour.

No. You can try things like drapped layers with soy pillar wax but with the meltpoint and opacity I don't know what it will look. Even the pillar soy/parafffin blends I've seen are opaque. Soy doesn't mottle so that lets that out. Even if it did it wouldn't look the same because of the opacity. Forget hurricanes - for the same reason, plus the meltpoint is too low. Soy chunk candles you can do but again, it won't look the same as paraffin. Marbled pillars I guess you could try. Rustics - no idea. IMO, I would just use paraffin. Sometimes its hard enough to get a really consistent effect - even if you are using the proper materials to do it.

I use BW in silicone pillar/taper molds. What I do is find out the highest temp the mold will accommodate from the vendor (don't guess, all silicone molds are not made of the same material) and pour in water at that temp if need be, or preferable, if lower, just higher than the melt point of the wax you use in them. Wax should float to the top. You can wait till it cools or scoop it off. (Be carefull of your plumbing). Coffee filters can then be used to get off any leftover smears since they won't leave lint behind. With silicone molds, I've found imperfections on candles are caused by left behind wax in the molds. Pouring at the highest temp feasible allowed by your wax and mold will usually make the molds self cleaning for many pours. Silicone holds heat, so don't be in a hurry to unmold them or else you will cause the problem you are trying to avoid (wax will stick to silicone until its cooled properly).

Hi Marsha, At this point if using the LXs I'm using at least a 22 in 1343 3". Will be trying the braids next.

I've heard blocks more so than the diamonds/chips/buttons (whatever) will clog if a lot is used, likewise the white color. That is what I've heard - I've not used the blocks. If you are doing soy or a soy blend I'd recommend the diamonds if you don't like to mix colors or want very dark colors. I've had no problem with them dissolving. I bust them up a bit and put them in before the FO so the wax is still hot - your wax should be at least 170 anyway if you are adding FO. (There are soy-based diamonds also but so far I've found them only in primary colors). The diamonds seem to be also of a lower melt point that crystals/flakes - which I've had to put in at least 180 to get them completely dissolved. I've also had no problem with residue with the diamonds - which I did fully expect. Perhaps your wax simply isn't hot enough when you add your solid colors? (I don't know if there is one large company making them or not - but I know with flake dye I've had different results with different vendors - some seem to be made out of a really high melt point base). I have had problems using liquid dye in soy if enough is used to get a very dark color. It seems to interfere with the setting up of the wax. I've had no problem with them in my paraffin though. If I do a color blend with black liquid dye it does cause a need for me to wick up one size in soy. Peaks sells both they solid and liquid dyes. I can PM you where I get mine, but basically, they are so light in shipping that I would just buy them when you order something else.