Henryk

It definately is the air-conditioning and hot temperatures that are affecting the setup of the wax. After I poured my last set I turned off the air-conditioning. I poured sets at 150 and at 130. I noticed both of these sets were setting up completely different than the earlier ones. With the other ones, the bottoms, sides and tops were cooling over before the center - thus causing the cave ins. With the air-conditioning off and the higher heat, the top actually stayed "open" much longer. I only got a very small hair-line circular split on the top but no cave in - 3 seconds with a heat gun and that was gone. (I'll try to post that tomorrow as I still have one that is not fixed).

I was in the same boat - did not want to buy whole boxes. This place has everything - and you can even buy by the sheet. I have to warn you though; it took about 4 or 5 weeks to get my order. She does say she is having some family problems. I got what I wanted though and saved a lot of money. Hope things work out because I did like ordering from there. One of things I actually got where the 2.5" clear labels - I use them on 8 oz. silver tins for incense supplies. If you get these, make sure you use them in an inkjet printer (not a laser). The templates there also work great. http://www.candleandsoapstuff.com/labels.html

Oh no - don't let me force you into your basement ! Actually, I wouldn't worry about 1/2 dozen candles here and there. I do that myself but I don't do rows and rows of candles and make an income out of it like the pros here do. Funny though, I can really tell my cats don't like the smells and they don't like the flame - their face gets this really disguisted look when they pass by a candle. PS. At least you have a basement !

Birds are sensitive because of their respiratory system. I have a relative who will only burn 3% FO scented candles (usually its unscented) with proper ventilation. She breeds tropical birds. Cats are sensitive to terpenes from EOs (some FOs are a blend of EOs and synthetics), and two respected authorities have different views on this - but I have it from a very reliable source that it is more due to contact with EOs than diffusing them in your home (do NOT put EOs on animals). However, I have cats and play it safe, I do not use straight EOs. I don't even like them in flea/tick treatments. As far as FOs, look at it from a cat/dog/bird's perspective. A dog has 120 to 220 million odor-receiving cells, and a cat 200 million. We have only 5 million. Interesting short article at http://www.catsinternational.org/articles/senses_and_features/amazing_sense_of_smell.html. And one more: http://www.quakerville.net/qic/q_glade.asp . I'm sure you'll have people tell you "I have made candles for years right next to my cat/bird/whatever with no problem". Good for them - they've been lucky. So, I would just use common sense. Animals need to be able to get to an open window or at least to a room/area where they can get away from that great-throwing candle. Unfortunately birds usually can't do that because they are stuck in cages and/or their wings are clipped to prevent flight. EDIT: Spelling

So far I've only used 1343 pillar wax - no smoke or soot at all (I was waiting for it but it never happened) - even on 14 hour power burns. Can I ask, the soot you were getting with paraffin - was it in containers or pillars? And if I may ask, what wax were you using. (I'm new at paraffin so just trying to gather some info). Thanks.

I poured another one just to see if having the top covered while it was cooling would help. Unfortunately it didn't. I looked up our humidity and its been hovering right around 80% and actually goes up in the evening. Rae Ann, I am also seeing some slight sweating around the edge of my containers - but I've seen that with other soy waxes too. Its just the heat. itsjustme, I think I'm going to do the same. Put what little I have left away until I can get better conditions to use it. I've had no problems with paraffin lately (pillars) so I guess I'll go back to playing with that for now. Thanks everyone. (Marilyn - sorry, didn't mean to ignore your question. No, I have not tried it as its a little far from me.)

Its now in the 90s here outside, but I have no idea what the humidity is inside with the air conditioning running. The other thing is that I'm forced to work 7 feet from the air conditioner. I tried pouring and then moving the containers to a non-airconditioned room - but that didn't work, plus I know that once you pour containers you are not supposed to move them. I'm really thinking its this heat/air conditioning situation. I'm going to try to repour one tonight and cover it. I can tell whats happening - its cooling pretty much evenly except right under the top there is like an inch that is still dark (liquid) while the top is lighter (already solidifying). What I need to do is stop that top from cooling so fast. (I have the same issue with BW sometimes). Other than this the wax burns great, and the look is fantastic (I'll try to post a pic or two later), so I'm not giving up yet. I may have to put it aside for a while as I don't have any options for a different working area. I have like six other IGI waxes I want to try so maybe now with these temps it would be a good time ...

Is anyone one else trying the new version of CB Advanced yet? I haven't poured too many because its unbearable hot here - to either pour or burn candles. I just poured more testers today and I got a small surface crack in all of them. The first set had the same issue. I fixed with a heat gun so its not a big deal - but my goal is to do a "melt and pour" type deal. I poured at temps between 175 and 145 all with the same issue. The last time I poured this wax was the "old" version - but it was back in April and May and we weren't using air-conditioners full blast. Its so hot here it would be impossible IMHO to live let alone pour candles without it. I'm wondering if that is the problem. The next thing to try is to pour cool, but then its back to waiting and watching temps though. Something I always wanted to get away from with soy. Positves though: I do think the throw is stronger, and again, zero frost and even less (so far zero) wet spots compared to the "old" version. I'm trying this set with a smaller wick because so far it seems even easier to burn than the "old" version.

Here's a couple posts from the old board. Never did like the way straight soy burned as a (tall) pillar. Paraffin IMHO burns so much better as a pillar (sorry). I tried mixing BW with it once or twice, but just decided to move on to other things. And I did try a couple brands. http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1110651533;start=14 http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1110843964;start=8 http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1110253436;start=9 You may want to try the recipe from this post http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193&page=2&pp=10, if you do, please post about it. If you are testing wicks in pillars I would make them with pins - then you can pull out wicks that are really too small or too large. Once you find a couple you think will work - burn the whole pillar. What starts out looking good can cause a blowout later on or when power burned ... another reason I went to paraffin for pillars. JMO.

If you are adding it like an additive, say 3% or so, it never changed my wicking at all. Not enough to make a difference.

I hear you I have been trying to get steady flames in my soy containters for a year and half and have finally got it - basically by accident by switching soys. It seems if your soy is hard to burn (and compared to paraffin - they are in general), you have to use a larger wick of course, then the flame is hotter so it needs more O2, it struggles for that and thats what causes the flicker - making its own draft. It gets worse as is gets down into the container. Basically what Kaybee23 says - you'll have to decide what you want. You need a deep hot meltpool for a large scent throw. I went for a slightly less deep meltpool and a steady flame - but the longer it burns, the deeper it gets. 6 hours is WAY too long for a 2 3/4" diameter jar either way as you know. Are you trying to get a full meltpool on the first burn? Now that I wouldn't worry about - but I know some people do. A full meltpool on the second or third is fine by me. I usually burn for about 3 or 4 hours and see how it does. I don't know who's FOs you are using but if they aren't good - then don't use them. Meaning if you have to add a ton of it to even smell it - switch FOs or suppliers. I've not used your soy or additive or RRD wicking - but the ROC for an LX21 is exactly in between an RRD 40 and 47. Now, with that being said when I was using a soy/cottonseed blend I used an LX26 in about your size jar so you may have to go up to that or even a 28 in your soy. (RRDs are cored, LXs aren't so the LXs are cooler wicks). Sorry, I just can't give you a less of a spread of sizes to try. You may also want to look at http://server.com/WebApps/db-view.cgi?id=71493. (Though I've seen LX entries that I don't know how they are doing it). All this is my opinion, hope you find something that works. Sorry if I confused you more! EDIT: Check both of these out also: http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Discussions;action=display;num=1074230291 http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1110307504

Hurricane wax is a high meltpoint wax that is used for candles like these: http://www.candletech.com/hurricanes/ . To be honest, if you haven't made candles, I would try something easier. The link I pointed you to is to use them as molds only -- I agree with SatinDucky and Elizabeth, sounds like a fire hazard.

Of the WYW, KY, and Cocoon FOs I have tried most that I have tried have mixed right away and stayed mixed. There is really no way to know until you try. The key words are "right away". I know some people say to wait a day but IMHO if it mixes in right away I don't have problems down the road. DW has had some for months and there has been no separation or discoloration. The way I do a test is to just put in a bit, maybe an ouce of the base into a spray bottle and add about a gram or two of the FO. If it mixes it will look swirly - like when you add FO to wax. If it won't mix the FO will stay suspended in bubbles - like oil in water. Those we don't use. You can shake them and it will look mixed - but later in the day you'll see the FO floating to the bottom. (I know there are additives you can use to emulsify but for me its too much of a bother - plus I would not want to alter the base and make things toxic for her!) I usually put in roughly about 7 grams per 8 ounces which is about 3% for body spray. I only use the "heavier" type FOs for body sprays (one of her favorites is "Sultry Angel") because you must use so little to be skin-safe. So, even though things like "cotton" type FOs are nice, they just dissipate so fast at 3%. Those things I use at the higher recommended value of 6 to 8% for room/linen sprays. HTH (edited for spelling)

Mine usually rot before they dry.

http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1105333782;start=1 -- sorry, I'm not a big fan of EOs in candles - but if it works for you We can't edit posts on the old board (for some reason I rarely could), but palm wax I have since found out has very little processing - so I would guess its about a step up from bayberry/unrefined BW). http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=Discussions;action=display;num=1109784019;start=2 -- pointer to lots of other links in this post.

Martha Stewart has Believe me, it is much easier to make candles out of them than to carve them as jackolanterns (those things are tough-skinned)! Here's a link: http://www.marthastewart.com/page.jhtml?type=content&id=channel1384&contentGroup=MSL&site=living She did these on her show and they did make a really great presentation. Very organic looking. PS: Curious, what do you do with them? HTH!

I thought cyclomethicone was a perfume base - not a body/linen spray base. Why wouldn't you use a body/room/linen spray base instead? You would get 128 ounces per gallon at around $15 which is about 4 times less than a similar amount of cyclomethicone from the place I just checked. I've tried a couple of them and keep going back to the base from KY. I (well, DW) uses 3% for body sprays, 6% for linen/room sprays.

Hi - I've been thinking I owe you an email update! Unfortunately I think your last one went into the digital netherworld with the rest of my PMs on the old board! I'm almost done moving my yahoo to gmail so I'll be able to get back to my private virtual life soon. Hope your pillars are going well! Nice surpise - our PMs are still there on the old board - thanks Allen !

You may want to look into microcrystalline waxes. (micro waxes). They are designed to raise meltpoints. On the whole they increase opacity though, so you may not want to use much if you want hurricanes.

BCN had it since last week. The site is not updated to show it but the shopping system is. Click the shopping cart, then waxes, then pick it from the drop down list. Assuming you can't get it from Peaks. You'll see a difference if you still have any of the "old" stuff to compare. The new is much more "oily in feel" - right out of the bag. At least mine was - was definately different.

Sean, EOs, whether distilled, expressed, or extracted, IMHO, are a waste in candles simply because of their expense. That's not to say that they are not used, but you aren't going to get the throw (hot or cold) that you will get with synthetic oils (some synthetics actually have EOs in them, but you get a better throw with them because the synthetics act as "carriers" for the EO). There was also something I read about burning EOs releases "Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons", then there's the concerns about pregnancy, and other conditions. Hopefully the archive of the old board will come up soon - there were a few long discussions about this there. EDIT: Wanted to add, since candles aren't applied in any way to skin like bath/body products, you don't have to worry about skin and body safe requirements. Naturally you can't use anything water-based. Just use candle-specific dyes, and since you are using paraffin you won't have a couple of the other concerns like you have with soy or gel candles, so your choice really comes down to preference and what works for you.

Belfrie, if its the same thing I saw, basically you want to melt a small bit of it, then take your thermometer and stick it in. At the point it starts setting up - note the temp - that is roughly the meltpoint. Its actually the "congealing point". The meltpoint is actually around 1 to 2 degrees higher (in paraffin). CMG - England is close so if you want to you can order supplies from there. I think its ok to post these here because I don't think people in the US will be paying the shipping http://www.candlemakers.co.uk/ http://www.candleicious.biz/html/candle_supplies.html http://www.thorne.co.uk/candles.htm (beeswax related) HTH

I was basically going to say the same thing. The solvents in the dyes, if something has a tendency to frost, could make it worse. I just bought a pile of dye chips in many shades from a couple places (including some that are soy based) to test. I don't like blending liquid dyes, but do have and use them. The other thing, if you have a dark color soy candle, naturally you are going to notice the frost more than in a light color. You may want to try Ecosoya's advanced blend (new version). I can get much deeper colors than I could with regular soy (plus its 100% soy) - and its frosts very little if at all. If you find a bit of frost on the top - which is the almost the only place I've ever seen real frost in this soy, you can add a very very small amount of BW but I don't think its necessary - you can also heat gun it. The other thing is to try a paraffin/soy blend if you don't mind the paraffin - that will also allow you to get much deeper colors without frosting. When I used the soy/paraffin blend I NEVER got ANY frosting - your wicking does change drastically though. I've not used the powder dyes because you may have to blend it seperately in melted stearic before you add to it to your soy. And again, there's the blending thing since they only come in so many shades from what I see.

Lorie, If you have the EL pillar/votive soy a great recipe (credit goes to Lyschel at Candle Cocoon for developing) is: 1 lbs EL Pillar/votive 1 oz Palm steric 4 oz beeswax I haven't tried it but its supposed to burn like a paraffin candle (you can actually hug the sides in unlike regular soy pillars). I'm not making straight soy pillars for myself anymore but when I did the 3x3.5" pillars were the best looking while burning.

No problem - it may be a while for hot throw though. I know what you mean about the paraffin blends - you have to wick way down for them, but I'm going to be testing a couple other container and pillar paraffin and soy/paraffin blends (IGI's) when my sample slabs arrive. (I've basically given up on 100% soy pillars so I'm curious what the premixed paraffin/soys will do).