Henryk

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the ideas. I did write off UA initially because it is supposed to make the wax more opaque. I don't have any here but may just get some to see how opaque it gets. I found 9 different micros and its hard to pin down much info on them to seperate them out from each other. Jeannie, thats exactly one of the places I was thinking about purchasing from as there are a couple other items there I want to try also. I was looking at the 195 though because its beaded. The 175 comes in cubes. I'll probably just get a small amount of each and try it. I think Devra used the 175 micro before and I think she was trying to do transluscent tapers - maybe she'll give us her results ? I made a few candles with 1343 and 1218 with no additves at all to test translucency and the 1218 IS slightly more transparent just looking at it. It has a "deeper" look. I have to light them though to see how they look and just haven't had time to babysit them. Both of the waxes mottled slightly. Enough to take away from the look of the candles. The 1343 had more smaller mottles and the 1218 fewer but they were larger. Funny thing though, I poured another couple pillars of the 1218 and had almost NO mottling. The thing I did differently is by accident heat the wax up too much (to about 240F !). I'm wondering if that was the reason why it mottled MUCH less or if its simply because these were larger pillars (3x6.5 as opposed to 3x3) that they cooled slower? EDIT: I'll check out the EP also. Thank you.

I was researching additives to eliminate unintentional mottling in paraffin waxes. What I want to do is eliminate it or at least reduce it as much as possible, but I do NOT want to interfere with the transparency of the wax. Therefore, I cannot use vybar 103 even in the lowest percentage, and I cannot use stearic. As far as translucent crystals, I know that hardens the wax without interfering with transparency, but does it do anything to reduce mottling? Same thing with gloss poly - I think this works similar to stearic, so in that case, I cannot use that either. Clear crystals won’t interfere with transparency, but again, does it have any effect on mottling? I've looked at microwaxes, but am unsure what one to try for this purpose. There is one called micro 195 which seems to be what I'm after that won't interfere too much. Anything else I can try? TIA

Georgia, THAT's the trick I was trying to remember all day! Thanks! Another one is pour color layers light to dark (if possible).

It would probably be difficult to wick because of the high meltpoint. In a perfect world you would want to have a midrange meltpoint for pillars - thats around 135 to 145F. (57C to 62C). There are things you can add to container candles to make it easier to burn but honestly I don't know if they would apply in your type of wax. (petrolatum, vegetable oil, mineral oil). Another thing would be to blend it with another lower meltpoint wax - even something like pillar soy wax. Sorry can't be of more help ... (PS - you can also try to make tapers with it since the diameter is relatively small - haven't tried it, but figured I would mention it - just a guess.)

Yes. I consider that temp hurricane/overdip/embed territory.

All the palm waxes (astorlite and candlewic) I have are the "older" ones I think (the last time I bought any was back in February) and I've not had any problems with release. (I let them sit overnight.) I did post a test of the candlewic stuff here http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1109546860;start= - it was the F (palm 3) wax, if you are interested.

Maybe someone else can help who's actually done this, but what I would do is use a straight paraffin (to avoid any other additives in the preblends) at the lowest amount possible. I've read that if you use too much it will start making the wax pull away from the jar, and if that isn't uniform, you'll have wet spots. I would try to use it just as you would use an additve, perhaps at 2% first. This is what I would do if I was trying to blend my own. I see you asked about joy wax. A lot of people like that wax and it has very little paraffin in it. Have you tried any of the J waxes? I've not looked into them much but I know at least the J300 has a good amount of soy in it and pulls fully away from the glass. My last suggestion is to go over to the KY board and post there for this. Those folks on there are really into mixing up waxes to try to perfect different blends. The only premixed paraffin/soy blends I've tried are the KY parasoy (I liked it) and IGI 6006. The 6006 was ok and you can get it at many places, but I wanted to get away from doing a second pour in containers. Both of these waxes are "sticky" slab forms of wax but easy to cut. I have not tried the KY perfect blend but I'm sure there are some posts on the archive board - and also on the KY board. All of the soy/paraffin blends will necessitate that you wick down - sometimes a few sizes if you use wicks like CDs or LXs - or else you can get smoking. I think I actually went down 6 sizes (!) from the KY125 to the KY parasoy (if you count the LX21 in the series). HTH

Sorry, I should have stated I have not had a reason to use it so I don't know what effect it will have on the patterning or if it will help. You seem to be having such a bad problem I thought I would at least suggest it though. :undecided

Actually, no, I hate testing, but its necessary to find a combination of products that give you the results you want. People have different expectations and so define "success" differently. Therefore, even though a thread can point you in a possible right direction, one personally still has to go through the process. As for the wicking, I still use an LX24 in 2.5" straight sided containers - whether the old, or the new version. I haven't tried the 2% stearic in these jars, but I don't think it will make a huge difference.

http://candles.genwax.com/candles/___0___Z501000.htm

Just curious, have you also tried Kemamide?

It was reformulated to address the scent throw issue (what I heard). Here are some threads: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2196 http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1120862091 If you got yours in June it most likely was the old version. AFAIK, BCN was the first to have this at that was around the beginning of the second week of July. So you know, candlescience.com now sells BOTH versions. They call them "advanced soy" and "advanced soy 2". Now that I got the 2% stearic thing down, I like the new version much better and won't bother with soy/paraffin blends for containers. The old version had a lighter throw, and got wet spots after about a day (that varies though with a lot of things). The new version has a better throw, and does not have wetspots. I had issues with small sinkholes with the new though. The 2% stearic seems to have solved that - so far the containers I'm burning have none on the top, nor inside. If you are worried about wicking - don't be. The wicking has not changed between versions. Still burns very easy. HTH

While both are translucent straight paraffins, the 1218 has a slightly higher meltpoint and has 2x the FO load of the 1343. I just use the standard 3TBLs PP of stearic with the 1343 - I wieghed it out once, I think it was 3% and yes, it does require a repour. Pour around 150. I don't chill the molds, but sloshing the wax a bit adds a lot to the look. Go to the gallery section, Eugenia is one of the expert on them. There are a lot of hints there and in the general candlemaking sections. Regarding the 6028, I'll let you know when I burn them a bit more, but so far so good. To early to tell for sure though.

Not Marsha, but Fil-Tec manufactures Ultra Core wicks. The Ultra Core are a very nice sturdy wick. Unfortunately they are rather hard to locate distributors for and if you buy direct you have to buy in 1,000 count quantitites. (Something I cannot afford to do right now). Their web site is http://www.fil-tec.com/candles/index.html. If you go to the ultra core section you can play a video for their wick against some standard wicks. I'd like to use the x-trim and self-trim also, but have not been able to find a distributor. You can get the Ultra Core from Early American Candle Supply in I think 250-count bags. (They seem to have a lot more sizes than what is on their website so you just need to email and ask). Obviously you may want to get a sample pack directly from Fil-Tec (see their website) before you commit to a large purchase.

Because you need to use at least two wick sizes from soy (and three sizes up from paraffin) because of how viscous BW is (assuming you are using a series that has a good spread - like LX or CD) - and the glass is pretty close to the flame if you use tight-fitting holders. Since votive holders are reused again and again I'm a bit concerned about the heat stress even with glass made for the purpose (like votive holders). Therefore I personally chose to use less viscous waxes in votives so I can use smaller wicks, and compared to BW, even soy is less viscous. (Its sort of on the same theory why you don't really see pure BW used for container candles much, just basically hard to do properly IMO - if you find them, most will tunnel, at least the ones that I've bought commercially have).

Those are 3" jars I'm testing for christmas candles. I bought sets of the three frosted jars at http://shop.candlesandsupplies.com/candles/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=Candles&category%5Fname=Christmas+Items&Page=1. I wicked them with an LX26 and an LX28 since I usually wick my 2.5" jars with a 24 in this wax. May have to try a 30 also. After that I'd go with a cotton - but I'd rather not use cottons because of the mushrooming - plus all I have right now are Peaks and I don't know if their hottest one will get a 3" in soy?

Rae Ann and Ellie - THANK YOU! Here's 2% stearic - right poured at 165, left at 125. No difference. I'll burn these tomorrow, if there aren't any hidden air pockets/holes, I'll be kicking myself for not trying this before.

I made group of soy container candles using many of the WYW top shelf as testers - and you really can get away with using less. IMO you can get away with 4% in soy. I really think even the regular line can be used in this amount. The only one I had to use more is the Winter Wonderland. I would buy samples first - you never know when you won't like something no matter who's it is. (i.e. I dislike anything maple - and I think I can smell that in the biscotti).

Thats another reason I'm trying to stick with the CB advanced - you can heat gun it to death if you need to and it still doesn't frost.

Kerry, that does sound wierd - but this summer is so hot (thankfully its almost over) I've had many bizarre results also. Just guessing but I assume the 2x jars have more wax and that it takes longer for them to heat up and sweat as opposed to the 1x? - who knows I just poured two 3" containers tonight with the CB advanced (new version) to test stearic as an additive. I used a soy-based dye chip (just had to try them), 4% WYW "Bamboo" and exactly 2% stearic. I poured one at 165 and one at 125 (and am crossing my fingers. )

Ha - thanks. It looks like there is a color cast to them, but there isn't The dye is "rust". In paraffin it looks like a burnt orange - in any soy or soy blend in the same amount - its cantaloupe/peach, so I got my perfect peach color down - just use rust dye chips

The best looking (and easiest) votives I've made so far are from 6028 (its a blend). They look great and its the only wax so far that I could literaly lift out of the votive molds. (posted a pic just now at http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3858). I also made them from 1343 paraffin - both with and without vybar. Vybar makes the wax opaque, pure white, but if you don't use it, when you light the wick, the whole votive just glows - really great looking. I used to use BW for votives, but the glass holders would get too hot. I'm still testing wicks in the 6028, but in the straight paraffin I really like the LX8 - the 10 and the 12 work also, but I like a low, steady, flame. For the KY soy pillar blend I used an LX 12 usually. Like was said - you have PLENTY of time. Just follow the directions at http://www.candletech.com/votives/ . They are much easier (and faster) to test than containers. Just make a few and wick them each differently going up a size. HTH

Why is it wrong? IMO I don't like the way palm wax burns though it looks great. Soy pillar wax is too fussy also. I use 1218, 1274, 1343, and 6028 (I will probably stop using the 1343 and go with the 1218 instead if I can get it to go rustic like the 1343 - haven't tested though.) I just started using the 6028 - its paraffin/natural pillar blend - here's what it looks like (pic may not be the greatest). You won't be able to get rustic/mottle/etc. out of it, but it is partly soy-based.

I've been using the TLs from http://www.candlescience.com/site/shop/wick/assemblies/pretabbed-wick.php The 13 through 18 will work with straight paraffin usually - its just how hot you want them to burn. You can get a sample kit from them, and the sample kit DOES have all the sizes 13 - 31, even though the website says 13 - 21. These assemblies do have a 15mm base so they WILL fit into the indent of a standard tealight cup. I use the 15mm wick stickums from BCN. or been tabing my own with the wTA3789 from http://secure.candlesupply.com/catalog_page.cfm?queries_index=index7&ProductCodeID=36&ProductSubCodeID=65 HTH.

I use this wax but have been doing a repour. I'll try the stearic because that is one additive I have not tried yet (tried vybar and bw), BUT, has the stearic caused any frosting or wetspot issues for you? I assume you are all using the "new" version of the CBAV? I don't use too many FOs. The ones I use are mainly from ShawMudge, WYW, and CandleCocoon (mostly the latter two). CandleCocoon specifically tests their FOs in all types of waxes (there is a test forum on her board) not sure about WYW. I use 6% in CB AV and 4% in paraffin (1343) and paraffin/soy blend (6028) and all the ones I have tried so far from CC and WYW have been good overall. There was only one WYW that wasn't a good thrower IMO that I have tried. Some, like WYW's Cinammon Stick, Wild Mountain Berry - and pretty much ANY of the "top shelf" ones, CC's Vanilla Voodoo, Seashells, Lemon Blossom are extremely strong in general. I use LX wicks for almost everything, but have been trying to get ahold of some more fil-tec wicks to continue testing. I generally use one size smaller in this wax than in other soys since the meltpool gets pretty deep and you don't want the wicks to flop over. (That is why I want to test the fil-tecs btw). I add FO at ~ 165 and pour around that temp if I need to do other things. If I want to lessen the chance of holes I'll pour at 130. This would be in 2.5" jars. Some other things from other posts: http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1113016238;start= http://www.candletech.com/cgi-local/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=veggiewax;action=display;num=1113179160;start= http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2196 http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=892 HTH