Candlelovr

I agree..that candle looks very nice! I would be happy with that I believe, although I am going for alot of frost at the same time. But it looks very much rustic in the picture. The tin mold didnt work either, got the same results as in the alum molds. If the stearic isnt bad, maybe the mold is just too warm. Next thing to try is cooling the mold in the fridge. I'll work on that tonight and let you know how it turned out.

Pic Please!!! :yay:

I have also heard that tin gives better frost than alum, but ppl on this board using the same wax and alum molds are able to get rustics. Im will try one in a tin mold and see if thats better.

I am trying to make a nice rustic and cant seem to do it, although I followed instructions to a T. 1343, 1 oz FO pp, 3 Tbsp steaic, poured at 140 into a room temp alum mold. Tried it twice now and cant seem to get any frost at all. Then I started wondering if my stearic is bad. I got it from Taylored Concepts which is a local supplier to me. A while back, I got some mottling wax from them that didnt mottle at all and a couple of FO's that smelled horrible, so its entirely possible that the stearic is no good also. What do you guys think? Has anyone ordered from TC and been very unimpressed with them? Im just really banging my head against a wall here trying to figure out what the problem is, and this is all I can come up with. Thanks!

Those are some of the best candles I've seen in awhile! Im hoping after my long break from candlemaking, I can pop some out that look half as nice! Great Job!

Hi all! Im going to be making about 200 votives for my sister-in-laws wedding in July, and her colors are Victorian Lilac and Olive Green (dont ask me! LOL) I ordered the wax from Peak last night but they dont have these colors. Can anyone lead me in the right direction? I need to get started on these this weekend and need to get the rest of my stuff ordered. Thanks Much!

Im giving up the candle thing for awhile so Im selling just about everything I have...just wanted to let everyone know I posted in the classifieds. Thanks! Dana

Yeah, my wick tabs hold them in place just fine.

What I do is figure out how much pp I paid for wax..say you used 1 lb and wax is 1.25 pp, so there you have your wax cost...I used 1 oz of FO..so that is 2.50 for FO, Jar is 1.19, dye is .10 (for me it is anyway) wick is .10 (estimation) so far you have put 5.19 into the cost of the candle. Now multiply that by 3 for retail and 2 for wholesale. HTH

HenryK..Im having the same problem with my 4045H rustics. Very distinct layers, no matter how soon or late I pour. Its kinda frustrating but I keep hearing that practice makes perfect so thats all you can do. Good luck and if you find a method that works, let me know and I'll do the same!

Darnit all...I seem to be all out of foil! What am I gonna do now? Ive also heard that standing on your head while singing zippidy doo dah works well, have you tested this theory and what was your conclusion? Thanks Top!

Not sure what you mean by "rustic glow" but pouring slow has nothing to do with getting the rustic effect. Rustics come from pouring cool. Pouring slow is to avoid bubbles.

I 2nd that! I cut myself almost daily cleaning whatever mold Im using. The edges are sharp so be careful.

Ive been curious about this also I remelted a mottled pillar the other day to add more color and it mottled again the exact same way, it still has excellent cold throw but I havnt burned it so I dont know what the hot throw is like. my guess is that you would have to keep it on very high heat for a long period of time to lose any FO, but I could be wrong. Can someone give some insight to this dilema?

Very nice

No, not scented, I was just trying out the technique.

Cool, thanks E! I noticed you dont have wick pins in your molds! You drill the holes after unmolding? I never can get mine straight..but then again, my wick pins arent straight either. I always have to stick the tip of a knife between the wick pin and mold to keep it centered.

Wow, one of my local suppliers advertised it as a colorant. They had some container candles sitting out showing what the white dye will do for you as far as coloring. I've never been really fond of that place. They have discontinued all of their IGI waxes and others..they're down to basically their own blends except 1343. I bought a slab of their special blend, was supposed to be a mottling wax. Mottle my a#&!! Crappy wax..almost as crappy as Michaels wax. So anyway, it doesnt surprise me that their so-called "white dye" will never work as a dye. Thanks Scented!

I think 1343 makes beautiful smooth shiney pillars. Thats JMO. There are a few places that carry it, just do a google and it should pull up some places.

In which case you would use a bigger wick? Would that work? I have a wick clog on me one time, it was from some white liquid dye that I used but I decided Im not gonna use that dye anymore cause it never blends completely. You can always see the dye in the mp.

yep, theres even this one :cakegirl: I LUV it!

If Im reading your post correctly, you put 1 oz of FO in 4 oz of wax? Thats wayyy to much, its no wonder its sweating. It cant hold that much FO. For a 4 oz candle, you should only use .2 -.3 oz of FO.

Not sure how this happened

Me too. The thing that comes to my mind is to heat gun the crap out of it until its smooth, but making sure not to do it too late to where the candle has pulled away from the mold.

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