Jump to content

jonsie

Registered Users Plus
  • Content Count

    482
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jonsie

  1. Not urgent at all! Just thought I'd ask and see if my printer could handle it. But on second thought, I'm remembering that here in Australia, most paper is sold by grams/meter^2, as opposed to the U.S. convention of #s. I'm not sure of an easy conversion either.
  2. Redraider, how horrible!!! That's like a horror movie to me. I recently had a few moths in my pantry and I was completely grossed out by that. Seeing your picture makes me want to hurl. Hope you didn't lose anything else besides the printer. BTA, how heavy is the card stock you are using?
  3. You might have seen another thread I started on the topic from awhile back. I had a black & white Brother laser and it was a nice little work horse. The only problem was that when I wanted to print small black text on clear labels it simply didn't have the clarity so I needed something different. The local printer sellers here in Perth would not let me run any test pages, so I took a leap of faith and bought a Fuji Xerox DocuPrint C205 w color laser. I don't believe the Fuji Xerox is even available in the U.S. so I don't want to oversell it. So FWIW, I have been very pleased with how
  4. Soy oil is generally extracted using hexane. Anyone selling you 'organic' soy oil should be prepared to explain how they squeezed the oil out of the beans in bulk without using hexane. Then, as robertgibbens explained, there is the hydrogenation process to make it into a wax. Bottom line, mass-produced soy wax is neither organic nor all that natural, and creates quite a foot-print on the environment. If you are hell-bent on making a crayon with organic materials, you can try organic beeswax (not impossible to find but expensive). Compare the cost of the beeswax to organic Melt & Pour s
  5. In some occasions, I have had water in my wax from the double boiler, but it will fall to the bottom of the pour pot. I use glass pour pots so it is easier to see the water than with metal pour pots. You can also tell if water ended up in your container candle because the frosting pattern will have uncommonly straight lines. And for laughs, try pouring at 100-104F (right before the wax gets cloudy). It might solve a few problems for you, depending on the FO.
  6. Soooo gorgeous! You deserve to be proud of that!!!
  7. I won't say that breast milk soap is gross. I mean, we've adapted to cows milk and goats milk as a drink and for all kinds of purposes. But what bothers me about breast milk soap is that breast milk, with all its health benefits, is in limited quantity and women are choosing to saponify it instead of donating it to a baby that can benefit from it. Unless it can be proven that breast milk soap cures things like skin cancer, then I believe it is a terrible waste of breast milk.
  8. I would love to have a pot for each fragrance because I hate the wiping down part, but I don't have the room for all the pots. It looks like Sharon's are nestable (if that's a word) so that would definitely save space. As for my preference, I've been using old glass coffee decanters that I picked up from 2nd hand stores and usually only cost about $1. The glass seems to retain the heat longer than the aluminum pour pots, but I can't nest them.
  9. Just wondering if anyone else has the same experience as me. When testing a candle and it produces a deep melt pool, I'll blow out the candle and pull the wick and replace it with a different wick. I'll let the candle cool off for about four hours then relight with the new wick. However, it seems that the burn after a deep melt pool is usually small with a low flame. It reminds me of the small flames I get if I don't let my candles cure long enough after the original pour. Should I let the candle re-cure for a couple of days before testing again? Seems the deep melt pool would have nearly
  10. I agree with Judy that is has something to do with the trimming. I only have about two years experience with candles, but I have noticed that there is the type of mushroom that will go away, and there is the type of mushroom that continues to hang on, and maybe even grow. From my experience, the type of mushroom that eventually goes away usually disappears within about nine hours of burning (3" diameter container). My theory is that at first, a cut wick will fray and blossom in the flame and make a significant mushroom early on. As it burns, it slowly incinerates those frayed ends until i
  11. Thanks for the responses After about 26 hours I got impatient and gave the soap a slight push on one end of the mold and was happy to see it sliding easily out. It still seemed too soft to stand the whole log on one end so I layed it on its side and cut with a crinkle cutter. It appears to have not gelled (yay!) and the color is a lovely creamy light yellow which is nice and even on all bars. They are drying now and hardening up nicely. Still gives a bit when pushed but doing much better than the batch I made last week. I can't wait to use them! Steve, you were right about the honey. U
  12. Congrats! Sounds like it went really well! Odd that you can't smell it, but maybe someone else can test for you?
  13. I've made a few batches of Goats Milk, Oatmeal and Honey CP soap, and I'm learning new things with each batch. I took a break from soaping for about six months, then last week made a 5# batch with too much castor oil, lots of shea butter, and burnt goats milk... ugh... I am clearly out of practice So after doing lots more reading I attempted another GMOH batch yesterday and kept my recipe simple: Water: 38% Superfat: 7% Olive Oil: 35% Coconut Oil: 30% Palm Oil: 30% Castor Oil: 5% Honey at 1 Tbs ppo Fine Oatmeal at 2 Tbs ppo In an attempt to keep the CP from gelling, I tried the method w
  14. Back to your original question, BTA, I feel extremely uncomfortable leaving an oversized wick for a customer. True, some candles might puff up and would benefit from a longer wick, but that would be the exception, not the rule. I am also concerned that some customers might take that extra-long length as how long a wick should be trimmed from there on out. I say, keep it simple and safe; no need to assume your candle is gonna crap out before it's even burned. I never knew such a creature existed! Well done! I married a Vol, and until then I was completely clueless about the rivalries. A
  15. I use something very similar. Long neck with a trigger, has a safety lock on it and is refillable. It also has an adjustable flame. Here in Australia they cost about $5 at Bunnings and I have not needed to use anything else. They are especially useful for lighting wooden wicks deep in the container.
  16. In my spare time I'm playing around a bit with beeswax. I found a major honey producer in the area and buy my wax directly from them, which is much cheaper than buying it from the candle suppliers. It isn't in an easy-to-use form, unfortunately. It comes in a big 20 lb block that I need to whack at with a hammer, lol. But back on topic... I haven't tried working with pillars yet so I've been using the beeswax in maxi tins (like a tea light but much bigger). I agree that although the BW has a nice fragrance, it certainly wouldn't overpower any amount of FO or EO added to it. Anyway, I lik
  17. Hey Richard, I appreciate you sharing your experience with such detail. I have been curious about C-3 but could not justify the cost of having shipped across the country. Was is simple curiosity that got you to try it or are you getting fed up with 464/palm? Haha... "fragrance balls"... And I do like the description of the difference between the types of shrooms. I was aware that some shrooms are simply the little cotton strands fraying from cutting the wick, but never thought to identify it as having produced its own shroom shape. But looking back now I do see the difference. Lol, had a
  18. What I have wanted but could not find was an independent wiki on candle making. That way the topics have their own individual page that users can make additions to and post references to verify sources. Forums are wonderful for discussions but one topic might be spread over 20 different threads. With a wiki, one page is established for that topic but can allow for updates and links to sub topics. I have actually gone as far as to install the wiki software with my web host but there is a learning curve to the wiki that I haven't overcome yet. I'm also debating the idea of including other c
  19. Woodwick by Virginia Candle Company is offering candles made with the cross-shaped wick (more like a + shape). They will also start offering something called a Ribbon-wick soon. I haven't burned either one of these so I have no idea if it is an improvement on the original, flat wooden wick. I don't know if these new-shaped wicks are available for crafters yet. I'm sure whenever they are available, they won't be sold by Virginia Candle company, but by someone like Unity trying to reverse-engineer what Virginia is offering.
  20. I plan on using these in maxi lights that will have a higher MP than usual. Anything like that out there? Anything w/o a metal core. I hate cutting and crimping my own wicks
  21. Hey snowman, your roses look gorgeous! I worked a great deal with wooden wicks but I never tried them in beeswax, so I'm interested in learning about your experience. If you don't mind trying another type of wooden wick, I suggest the ones from BCN. Why I prefer them over the Unity is that they are a lot simpler (no oily treatment to dry out, no binding to stick the two wooden pieces together). They are sold in single pieces that you can double up to improve the burn when needed. Hardwood Wickster, I am so impressed that you make your own wicks! I would love to experiment with them, howe
  22. I love the smell of beeswax too. The 'naturally bleached' wax pellets I had hardly had any smell, but the block of barely filtered beeswax smelled divine! Makes complete sense what led you to it. As for the wood wicks... I have been up and down that road, and jay-walked it back and forth a few times. If you have any questions, please PM me. Let me know what type you are using. I started off being completely in love with them, and now I am kinda lukewarm on them. A combination of beeswax and timber wicks would be truly lovely, but a container for that inferno would involve Star Trek IV-ty
  23. Thank you both very much, that is extremely helpful!
  24. Yeah, the requirements for new accounts are pretty crazy. But if you had an existing account with EO University before the switch, your yearly minimum is $1000 and no minimum per order. Still high, but not as bad as $6000.
  25. Hey Sparky! How've ya been?? Hope your Summer is going well. What got you interested in beeswax? I never used it before until now and I'm impressed with how hard it is, but I feel intimidated by it, lol.
×
×
  • Create New...