racolvin

Oh good heavens...

I got those from Candlewic before

Chuck is correct. My post said Liquid Nails and it should have been JB Weld. Been so long since I sealed mine I totally forgot which product it was Oh and Roll Tide

Two options: 1) Use plumbers tape (teflon) to go around the threads of the spigot where it screws into the Presto Pot 2) Seal the area round the point where the spigot screws into the Presto Pot with Liquid Nails. This can be done either on the inside or the outside but I find it better on the inside. I take a Dremel tool and remove the non-stick coating of the Presto Pot just around the spigot connection area before I apply the Liquid Nails.

In my 3" diameter tureens, and square mason jars, I use an LX-24 in my GW464. All my oils come from Alabaster but frankly I don't think that matters much. The LX-24 burns beautifully but it does give me a full melt pool on the first burn, so some might consider that a bit hot. I personally like my candles to give a full melt pool every time and I don't find the glass temps to be an issue, but that's just me - your mileage may vary

If there are swirls of red dye still obviously visible then you didn't stir enough. As for the initial cracked top, what was the ambient temp and humidity in the room where you poured it and left it to cool? The white areas are probably frosting and I'm afraid that's just something you have to live with - its soy. As for the graininess you saw after using a heat gun, this is also a characteristic of soy that happens when the wax hasn't crystallized properly.

I use an LX24 in a 3" diameter tureen and mason jar with the 464 wax and they burn beautifully. Yes I get a full melt pool each and every time but I like it that way so I'm ok with it

I use the beeswax coating on my LX wicks from Candlewic. I use them in my GW464 wax and they've worked wonderfully for years now. It's been too long since I used a paraffin coated wick to be able to tell you if there are any differences tho, sorry

I use the same wick type - LX. If I get a fragrance that won't work with any of my various LX sizes, I don't use that fragrance. Life's too short to go and test every possible fragrance/wick combination; simply not worth it to me.

See that's weird cause when I can't get my 464 to settle out the tops in my shop, I can remelt them in my oven and let them cool in the house and they come out perfect every time. Strange ....

I've been using GW464 for a couple of years now and I've always used the LX wicks. In a 4" diameter apothecary jar I double wick with LX20's and I rarely use more than 1 or 1.2oz of FO per lb.

I had a request come in via my website for some spiral tapers and I don't do them. Does anyone else out there in CT land make them that I could send this customer to? Ronnie

I've never been able to do it with liquid or chips I've had it work for a little while but for some reason in the soy I use (GW464), the colors end up migrating and blending together. This also happens with my layered candles, like the Candy Corn ones I made for Halloween. They started off with very distinct and bright Yellow, Orange, and White layers but after a while they orange color leeched into the yellow and white, almost completely eliminating the white and leaving very little yellow at the bottom. So I gave up on the marbling attempts

Burn time is such a subjective thing it's not worth quoting. Do they trim their wicks, is it in a draft, etc, etc all have an effect on burn time. Since I can't control how they burn it, I don't bother with putting those numbers anywhere. Sort of the candle equivalent of "Your mileage may vary...."

I use the 3mm neck tabs and they work dandy in my GW464 wax. Very minimal left on the bottom and part of that is unavoidable since the bottom of the jar curves upward slightly.

I use LX wicks in the GW464 soy wax and they work just dandy.

I wouldn't suggest doing a full private label setup unless she wants to carry the necessary product liability insurance and be responsible for the candles in a legal sense. The label information isn't just for marketing, it's so an end-user can track down party that takes responsibility for the product: either the manufacturer (you) or the wholesaler. Whoever's information is on the label needs to have the appropriate insurance and be ready to deal with that circumstance should it arise. Your point #2 about leaving your info on the warning label is a good one but that's an avenue for the end-user to track you down and buy directly from you (if you sell that way, via website or whatever), which is usually what a private label account is trying to avoid - they want the customer to think they are the only source for the candle. I make no claim to be a lawyer or anything close to one so I'd contact both your own attorney and your insurance carrier to see what the ramifications are.

I get almost everything from a single supplier - Alabaster. The only thing I don't get from them is my wicking, since I get it specially made (primed with Beeswax). Other than that, everything comes from Alabaster since they're in driving distance. Oh, I do occasionally buy something like wick holders from other suppliers but that's once in a blue moon So far I couldn't be happier getting as much as humanly possible from a single supplier that's reasonably local. Haven't found a downside for it yet

I dunno about the KY125 but Alabaster 435 is just the Golden Brands 435

Brenda: I raised my delivery price to $8. Honestly, I did it to sort of discourage delivery orders, since at that price it's almost as cheap to ship it as deliver it. Also, I work with my wholesale accounts to offer a No Cost Pickup option where they can place their order online and elect to have pick it up at one of my existing wholesale account locations. Tho frankly I might start charging $1 for that as well

As it turns out, that's one of the industry names for it - booger glue It's also called "fugitive" glue, tho I have yet to figure out why they call it that Anyway, the Glue Dots that were recommended above are that substance. There is a glue-gun version of it though, which may be what I go with. If anyone wants to see the gun and stuff .. http://www.glu-stix.com/shop/page/product_detail/Product/d8d4360287fd540af99186afaca2c2f5.html Thanx again all! Ronnie

Hmm .... from the look of it on the back of my new credit card I would have thought it was applied out of a gun of some kind, like a hot glue gun. Thank for the pointers tho, that gives me a place to start

Does anyone know what that rubbery adhesive is that they use to attach a credit card to the paper when they mail you a new one? It holds well but peels off fairly easily, even from the paper. I think I'd like to use this stuff for a new label idea I'm working on but I don't know what it's called, how it's applied, or where I would get it. Any pointers appreciated Ronnie

My understanding is that it isn't really an "oil" lamp but an alcohol lamp. They're called La Tee Da Effusion lamps and they sell the scented bottles of their fuel for a large amount of money, considering that it's apparently mostly isopropyl alcohol and a little bit of FO. I'm still investigating this however, so it may not be as simple as it sounds

It is known by that as well but I'm looking for larger quantities than a typical 16oz drugstore sized bottle