racolvin

Oh good heavens...

I got those from Candlewic before

Chuck is correct. My post said Liquid Nails and it should have been JB Weld. Been so long since I sealed mine I totally forgot which product it was Oh and Roll Tide

Two options: 1) Use plumbers tape (teflon) to go around the threads of the spigot where it screws into the Presto Pot 2) Seal the area round the point where the spigot screws into the Presto Pot with Liquid Nails. This can be done either on the inside or the outside but I find it better on the inside. I take a Dremel tool and remove the non-stick coating of the Presto Pot just around the spigot connection area before I apply the Liquid Nails.

In my 3" diameter tureens, and square mason jars, I use an LX-24 in my GW464. All my oils come from Alabaster but frankly I don't think that matters much. The LX-24 burns beautifully but it does give me a full melt pool on the first burn, so some might consider that a bit hot. I personally like my candles to give a full melt pool every time and I don't find the glass temps to be an issue, but that's just me - your mileage may vary

If there are swirls of red dye still obviously visible then you didn't stir enough. As for the initial cracked top, what was the ambient temp and humidity in the room where you poured it and left it to cool? The white areas are probably frosting and I'm afraid that's just something you have to live with - its soy. As for the graininess you saw after using a heat gun, this is also a characteristic of soy that happens when the wax hasn't crystallized properly.

I use an LX24 in a 3" diameter tureen and mason jar with the 464 wax and they burn beautifully. Yes I get a full melt pool each and every time but I like it that way so I'm ok with it

I use the beeswax coating on my LX wicks from Candlewic. I use them in my GW464 wax and they've worked wonderfully for years now. It's been too long since I used a paraffin coated wick to be able to tell you if there are any differences tho, sorry

I use the same wick type - LX. If I get a fragrance that won't work with any of my various LX sizes, I don't use that fragrance. Life's too short to go and test every possible fragrance/wick combination; simply not worth it to me.

See that's weird cause when I can't get my 464 to settle out the tops in my shop, I can remelt them in my oven and let them cool in the house and they come out perfect every time. Strange ....

I've been using GW464 for a couple of years now and I've always used the LX wicks. In a 4" diameter apothecary jar I double wick with LX20's and I rarely use more than 1 or 1.2oz of FO per lb.

I had a request come in via my website for some spiral tapers and I don't do them. Does anyone else out there in CT land make them that I could send this customer to? Ronnie

I've never been able to do it with liquid or chips I've had it work for a little while but for some reason in the soy I use (GW464), the colors end up migrating and blending together. This also happens with my layered candles, like the Candy Corn ones I made for Halloween. They started off with very distinct and bright Yellow, Orange, and White layers but after a while they orange color leeched into the yellow and white, almost completely eliminating the white and leaving very little yellow at the bottom. So I gave up on the marbling attempts

Burn time is such a subjective thing it's not worth quoting. Do they trim their wicks, is it in a draft, etc, etc all have an effect on burn time. Since I can't control how they burn it, I don't bother with putting those numbers anywhere. Sort of the candle equivalent of "Your mileage may vary...."

I use the 3mm neck tabs and they work dandy in my GW464 wax. Very minimal left on the bottom and part of that is unavoidable since the bottom of the jar curves upward slightly.