racolvin

I have yet to make any candles in the tins so I can only speak theoretically on this. That said, glass has a better heat retention than does tin, so you won't get much help from the tin container when it comes to achieving a full melt pool. Depending on how you've wicked it, you might need to go up a size to compensate for that. Ronnie

Alabaster carries it but they call it Jungle Fruit. Mike's wife wouldn't let him call it Monkey Farts - she said it was tacky

2 presto pots, both with spigots. Soy wax only, no black bits ever (4yrs)

I find that several dependencies exist when it comes to pricing: materials cost, labor, overhead, etc. But when it comes to what the customer actually pays, there is one very important item - shipping. For wholesale accounts, I give them 30% off from my MSRP if they have a minimum of a $200 order. Now at first glance they would complain that my web price is under cutting them (assuming they want to double what they paid) until I remind them that if a customer buys from my website, they ALWAYS pay a shipping/delivery charge that is a minimum of $8. Customers who buy from me over the web don't buy just one of something - they make it worth paying the shipping charges. So if a customer wants just one of my 8oz apothecary jars (actually more like 9 ounces of wax) for $10.99, it would end up costing them almost $20 by the time taxes and shipping are accounted for. If its a local customer, there is room for the retailer to up the price to something comfortable to them yet still undercut my web price when shipping is considered. So far this has been more than enough "wiggle room" for a retailer to go up a dollar or two from my web price and allow them the margins they want. HTH, Ronnie

I actually use a scientific lab instrument myself, they're called Hot Plate/Stirrers. As the name says, they combine hot plate functions (for heating my wax up to the right temp after I draw from my Presto Pot), and the stirring function. The stirring function will only work if you use a glass, aluminum, or stainless steel pour pot, since the way its done is via an electromagnet in the base of the device. You place a teflon coated item called a Magnetic Stir Bar inside your pot, place the pot on the hotplate/stirrer, and set the speed at which you want to stir via a knob on the device. Viola! Works like a champ for me. I bought mine via eBay - just do a search for "hotplate stirrer" and you should get some hits that way. HTH, Ronnie

where did you find a source for some of those boxes?? I've been looking for things like that, as well as the boxes used by Voluspa (www.voluspa.com) but I can't find a source for them - mostly because I don't know what to call them in packaging industry-speak

I use the GB464 exclusively and it works well for me. I do still color my candles upon request and I've cut down on my frosting issues by doing two things: 1) add 1/2tbsp coconut oil per lb 2) stirring constantly right up until its time to pour. I use an automatic stirring device for this so I don't have to just stand there and drive myself nuts with stirring HTH, Ronnie

All: I've been wanting to give this a try. I have now tried it and will be conducting another experiment soon but wanted to share what I have so far. 1lb GW464 + 1 tsp CO: This combination didn't seem to do much frankly. Same frosting as usual, etc 1lb GW464 + 1/2tbs CO: While it doesn't sound like much of an increase, this actually did reduce my frosting a bit. It didn't eliminate it but it is noticeably less of an issue than with no CO at all. It also smoothed out my tops where I haven't had to use my heat gun at all. Scent throw, both cold and hot, seem to be unaffected either way. 1lb GW464 + 2tsp (2/3tbs) CO: No results yet. Will be trying this one soon 1lb GW464 + 1tbs CO: No results yet. Will be trying this one soon. I'll edit this post as I add results. If anyone else is trying this combination, I would love to hear your results as well. Ronnie

When I use Print Shop to do it I admit I have to do a little dance first. It's like it forgets that the label is circular and it's supposed to wrap the text. What I have to do is select a totally different text box shape and then change it back to circular - then it wraps just fine. I have to do this every time I open my template but since I print a few hundred at a time I don't do it that often so it doesn't bother me much. Annoying but workable.

I like the color crystals better than the liquid dyes I used in the past. I find it easier to control how much color I put in when I use a measuring spoon instead of the dropper. I can't tell you how many times I squeezed just a little too hard or heaven forbid blinked one time too many and used more liquid dye than I intended I've tried using CO with the GW464 and even at 1/2tbs per lb I still get frosting. I may try going to 2/3tbs per lb but I dunno yet. I started another thread for any one who might be trying the same combo. Ronnie

Anyone else using CO with the 464? I've tried using 1/2tbs per lb with the 464 but still get frosting with it. I may try going with 2/3tbs per lb but thought I'd ask if anyone else is getting different results.

Pfft ... we've all screwed up royall now and then so don't be hard on yourself :-) Personally I would reheat the wax the way I would if I had never poured it in the first place. Get it back to the normal temperature that you add your FO and proceed as you usually would. It's no different than had you poured into the wrong size containers and had to melt the wax out and repour, except this time you're adding more FO before you pour again Ronnie

I use software called The Print Shop v22 (bought it at Sam's). It prints on round labels, wraps the text and all, just dandy. I buy blank round labels from www.onlinelabels.com, print them on my laser printer and they're ready to go. Ronnie

Susan: I can't think of a reason you can't melt out the wax, put it in a pour pot on a hotplate, add CO and stir. You'd want to go through your heating up/cooling down tempering ritual as normal but other than that I can't see why not. Ronnie

Thanks for the reply :-) I don't know why it doesn't recommend mixing with beeswax on the website, which is why I was curious. I agree that the CO is MUCH cheaper! The reason for my curiosity though is because I buy my wicking pre-primed with beeswax, which hasn't been an issue. It just made me wonder so I thought I'd ask Have a great weekend! Ronnie

pfft .. technically I suppose if you tried to actually call it a Credit Card Fee, but that's easily circumvented. Raise your prices by $1.00 and offer a "Discount for Cash" of $1.00. Accomplishes the same goal Ronnie

The GW website says not to blend the 464 with Beeswax - anyone that can explaine why that is? Also, has anyone else blended their 464 with the coconut oil? I've been trying it now for a few days and so far the results are promising, at least from an appearance perspective. We'll see how the throw works after it cures a bit longer :-) Ronnie

Anna: I've had this happen to me several times when using the GW464. The common culprit seems to be the heat and humidity of the work space during the cooling process. My shop is blistering hot and humid during the summer and this happens every time if I leave them to cool in the shop. If I take them inside the house right after pouring, they cool normally - which is to say beautifully

I use the color crystals from Makes Scents in my GW464 wax. Never had a problem getting a good color. The only thing that hurts is the frosting that comes in later

I use the LX wicks for my GW464 candles and have been very happy with their performance Ronnie Colvin