Judy, USMC

Thanks for bringing this up to the top of the pile! I joined after the original post started and was amazed to see the problems. Ran to my storage closet to check everything I've poured and they're all fine, thanks goodness. But then the only one I've poured that has any hint of vanilla in it was the Blueberry Muffin. From what I've read it only happens with some aromas - basically ones that are vanilla or have vanilla as a component. Yeah, I'd suspect the oil blending components that the manufacturer/perfumery uses.Maybe a thread of Oils (& their Suppliers) that don't work in Clamshells? Just a thought.

I'm using a spreadsheet format. I start with the Aroma, supplier, and location of my oils (I keep them in Labeled boxes) and another column for quantity on hand. Then the columns go to type wax, wick, %fo, color, throw, and a notes column. As I'm testing I'll write on the sheet (or a sticky if I have a lot of notes) and update this master every time I pour and again when I burn. When I finally get one perfected I just BOLD it.If it won't work no matter what I do it goes in italics. This way I know what I have on-hand; What works & who makes it for future orders; what I've already tested so I don't forget and reorder from the same company; and it's all in an easy alphabetical order. It seems a little time consuming but right now I have a 4 page/50 FOs per page list of oils I need to test in Palm. Don't know how I could keep track of that in a notebook.

It's Arylessence "Home Sweet Home" for non-skin application. The problem is you can't just go by the name. It's not copyrighted so there are quite a few FO's by that name on the market. Additionally, the names assigned by the manufacturers will sometimes be changed by the suppliers. That's why I'm specifically looking for someone who deals with them.

There is an oil manufactured by Arylessence (Georgia) that I'm interested in getting. Does anyone know of the suppliers who buy from/work with this company?

Just found another transformer made by Newmarket in Devon for only 64 pounds with a case. Bit of a savings! The first ones listed are without the case for 57.50. They are step downs! (VAT not included) www.newmarket-transformers.co.uk/autos.asp

I would be a little concerned that the plastic pour spout may not get hot enough. It may work the first time but, once shut off and the wax solidifies, will there be enough heat generated to melt the wax in that spout? I'm sure if it worked well there would be many of them advertised and sold for that purpose on EBay. Anybody out there ever try it?

OK, some have said it's the dye. But some others say they don't have the problem. Could you post which dye you used, please?

Direct contact with the organizers is the best way to get your answers. Some of the shows I've done do limit the number of "like items". So if there are 17 jewelry makers and they want to limit to just 10 jewelry vendors the last 7 may get notice that the fair is full for their type of craft - even though there are spaces remaining. There have been some fairs that put this qualification in because some crafters were selling embroidery items that were made from copyrighted programs. The programs were intended for personal use of the purchaser - not for profit. If, after speaking with them, you find that they would even think of refusing just one of your products, I'd put a qualification on the application. Something like: "This application is for my entire product line as described. Please contact me if one of my products is not allowed to be sold. I reserve the right to withdraw this application and request a full refund of all fees paid." HTH

The first thing is to start off with a budget. Check out newspaper ad charges, the building rental fee, printing charges for flyers, postage to send out applications and confirmations, throw in the cost of your coffee and donuts too, if you want to provide them. Check with the building management, they may have liability insurance - if not add that in. Then figure the size and how many spaces you have available... let's just say 80 for example. Take 75% of the number of spaces (for this example it would be 60) and divide that into the money required to run the show. Don't plan on selling out...that's why I recommend the 75% figure. That way you have enough money to cover all your expenses in case the participation is low. Now you've determined the price per space. Ask yourself if you would participate at that price...if so then you can commit. This is the hardest part. The mechanics of getting everything set up will be a lot easier. Wish you success!

Hey Becky, I'll usually get some container and throw in a little bit of pillar or bees wax to firm it up. Dollar store ice cube trays work for me. Just pour cool like soy and not hot like palm. After they've thoroughly set up flip the tray ...don't twist. If there's a problem with them coming out - a few minutes in the fridge will loosten 'em up enough to flip out.

Yes, it does sound like blowing out the candle has little to do with how it will throw when the container gets low. I have the wick dippers and give them to my preferred customers. Dipping eliminates the smelly smoke and afterglow when a mushroom forms at the end of the wick. (Some of my ladies will try to burn them all day long.) It also coats the wick with wax; keeps some types of wicks from getting brittle and breaking when they're trimmed. Some customers even say they find it a little easier to relight the wick! I've been blowing all my life (no pun intended) and a well made candle always threw great - top to bottom. HTH

Hi - I don't do pillars - but I do pour palm container candles. Each manufacturer or distributor will have their own recommendations. NuScent recommends 1 1/2 oz per pound (less than 9%) for their palm wax while Candle Science recommends 1 oz per pound (a tad under 6%) for theirs. To put it simply, adding more oil than the wax can "hold" will result in the excess oil being released into the pool and burned off at the wick. That's probably the noise you're hearing! Different types of wax can hold more of a load - some paraffins can hold 12% which is a little over 2oz per pound. So if she taught you with paraffin the oil load will not be the same for palm! I'd follow the guidelines from NuScents for their wax. HTH

Just curious regarding container candles - has anyone found a series of wicks that works equally well in both palm & soy? And if you do have a series (HTP, RRD, CD, LX, CSN, etc) do you have to bump up on the wick size on one particular type of wax using the same size container? Thanks!

Oh, Boy! Does this bring back memories! High school prom ... wanted to save the flowers. Got some unscented regular paraffin (used for canning jars back in them thar olden days) and dipped, let set up, dipped again. Got a good coating on them. I think we were careful not to fully encapsulate them. If I remember we left a portion where the stem connected to the flower uncoated. Was it because if they were totally coated they couldn't dry out and would rot under the wax? Were you thinking of dipping them in Rose scented wax? I was going through some of the memorabilia my mom has kept for me at her house over the years. And I was suprised to find those flowers. The petals have shriveled and dried - but the paraffin shape of "the way they were" is still recognizable. Of course she kept them in the living area of the home - not a hot attic. Let's see - it's only been ----- O M G !!!! 40 years !!!! *faint*

BRAVO ! (Yes, I am yelling)

OK, so let me add another variable! My friend does bath and body and some of her oils will actually change the color of the hot process soap she makes. Told me that vanillas are notorious for turning various shades of brown! Something else to consider!

I sputtered, too!!! :rolleyes2 But just got off their site at EBay and shipping is $10.23. The first price MUST have been a typo!

A lot will depend on 1) What type of wax are you using? and 2) Are you coloring these candles? Adding this type of info to all of your posts will get you info a lot quicker. I use CSN wicks from Candle Science - the same place I get my Palm Wax! HTH

Yep, Kelly's got a point. I keep a votive on hand that weighs exactly 2.10 oz. I'll throw it on the scale at the start of every session to make sure it's still reading correctly. But I always keep an extra new battery on hand and change it if something doesn't seem right. If it reads the same I'll put the old one back in. And I change batteries in my scale the same time I change the smoke alarm batteries - at the spring & fall clock change!

Just emailed Morris Wax. The link will open the site, but when I went to the PDF File for the palm wax it won't link up. All the other PDF links (soy, parasoy, etc) work.

SORRY HONEYB, I don't have an answer for you...but I would like to comment on: I normally won't post anything like this but I believe you mis-interpreted what she said. She was refering to working with "a natural product" soy wax - not the completed candle. And, yes the wick is off - but I personally would not repour an "problem" candle just to get the wick straight for a pic. And 6am is too early to be yelling! :tiptoe: I'm really interested in what could cause this, too. Any other opinions?

Just Scent link: www.justscent.com

Also, if the FO load is too high you may experience this type of sooting in the melt pool.

Hey Mike, I had that experience with soy, too. It was soot from the wick that was "bleeding off" (for lack of a technical term) into the wax. What wick are you using?

Thanks for heading me in the right direction. Found a couple of east coast suppliers! Off to order my case.