kandlekrazy

I'm not sure this will work for you, but I heat C-3 to 175, transfer to my pouring container, add my fo immediately (about 170) and pour into my heated containers anywhere from 120-140...depends on my mood that day! It doesn't seem to matter much on between that range. If your adding color, I would add it in just before or just after the fo, while the temp is still up there so it melts completely. I know the mfg states to add fo between 140-150, but it won't throw well at that temp.

Thanks Jami, maybe it just won't work well in C-3. My olive oil candle also got a funky top yesterday, so I'm more inclined to say its the weather instead of the coconut oil. I think I'll back off until the humidity drops a bunch and then I'll try it again and see if there is a difference. It's been fun testing different stuff again...you forget when you just pour, pour, pour the old standards!

Tried it again today using 1/2 Tablespoon per 1 # C-3 wax. It's better, but still slightly cauliflower tops...I'm afraid to add too much as it really makes the wax on the oily side...but I'm going to try just a bit more later. Much less humidity today so that could factor in also. Note to self: Do not leave Black Cherry fo in a plastic cup for more than 30 seconds...melts through the cup:o

There are actually only 2 tablespoons in an ounce (15 ml per tablespoon and 30 ml per ounce)

Just remembered I only used 1/2 # of wax, so it was 1/3 oz per pound.

a teaspoon is 5 ml and an oz is 30 ml (28.8 to be exact) so I was around 1/6 oz per pound...however...I used a teaspoon, I did not weigh it on the scale, so it may have been even less since I weigh my wax. All too technical for me...next time I'll weigh out 1/2 oz (which is around 1 tablespoon) and put it in a pound of wax and see what happens to the tops and what kind of disaster I can create next...wish my jars would come into stock, then I can quit playing around for a while!!

I tried a teaspoon in 1/2 pound of wax yesterday and the tops came out exactly the same as those without...can't wait for cure...want to see if it improves burn time. For some reason all my tops came out cottage cheesy yesterday...very small curd! Thinking its too cool and humid right now...we're heavy into June GLOOM here!

The only thing I know about it is that Let It Shine sells it and it is 100% Vegetable (but not sure if that means all soy?) It is supposed to leave a crystal look on the top of the candle, but I've never tried it.

Something else just occured to me...this is why my testing never ends...I'll try anything!! Off I go to the "test kitchen"

This is a great tip...I happen to have a jar in my fridge and I'm pouring this afternoon so I think I'll try a couple with the coconut oil. Thanks for the great tip!

I have had good luck with scent throw using C-3 and the glass adhesion is about the same as all the other waxes I've tested...some don't shrink until they have cured for weeks. I personally like the C-3, but I can get it locally. You might want to find out which wax you can get at a good price (including shipping) and work with that one...only if you are making candles to sell, because high cost of containers and wax really dip into the profits. I pay less than $1.00/# if I pick it up and right around $1.25 if I have GenWax ship it (but I live about 50 miles from them.) I also use containers from them because you can easily double the price by having them shipped out of state. HTH

If you are anywhere near Southern California, Gen Wax carries it. Cargill will also give you suppliers in your area.

I'm not sure about the beeswax as I've never tried it, but for the bigger wick you can usually pull out the old with pliers and insert larger, sometimes you need to enlarge the hole a bit (I use a warmed metal skewer). Keep in mind that you can't burn the last 1/2" as the wick will float since it's no longer attached. HTH

Munch, you probably already know this but several sites have wick guides. Candle Science has a pretty extensive one, which wick works with which wax and size of container. Not foolproof but surely a good start. Saves you from trying everything out there.

Question for Candle Man...you stated to poke around the wick after the candle sets up and then use a heat gun...does this mean you don't have to do that 2nd pour? I get these air pockets or tunnels deep along the wick when I use Ecosoya CB Advanced wax. What you said about causes makes perfect sense now, since the Ecosoya is entirely different from C-3 when cooling.

This lady doesn't carry anything in her store that doesn't have her olive oil in it...or at least someone's olive oil. My only reason for trying is to see if I can make candles for her to carry. I'm thinking it has to be the same procedure as making the massage candles??

I tested the Ecosoya Advanced and while I love the low melt point and the softness of the candle, I don't like the tunnels it gets and it doesn't seem to have any better glass adhesion than C-3. I also tested a few that I couldn't find out what they were because they were "renamed." I have the 415, but haven't tested it yet...will let you know if I like it better. I think the bigger issue for me is cost. I can keep my costs way down using C-3 and if I could find a wax that would save tons of time it would be worth it, but so far each one has its own set of problems! This is my personal opinion, but find a wax that you can get at a reasonable price with shipping and if you like it...work through the issues. The only problem I have with C-3 is the circular cracks and I started torching the top to remove it after 12 hours...so far for me, it has worked every time. HTH

I just ordered 200 from Peak and they were all bent near the tab because the bag was too small that they packaged them in. My orders from Candle Science never come that way, they are always nice and straight. Although the quality of the wick itself seems to be the same, its a PITA to straighten them when they are bent at the bottom.

I did a search for this but only came up with one post. I wanted to find out if anyone has actually tried adding extra virgin olive oil to a pure soy candle? If yes, did it work and which wax did you use? I know olive oil has a very high heat tolerance and doesn't smoke like crisco, but just not sure how it would react to direct flame. I'm going to try one as I have a customer who owns an olive ranch and store and would stock my candles if I can get her oil into them! I'm thinking just 1/2 oz per # ????? I also plan to buy the olive oil fo at genwax next time I go to pick up supplies. I'll keep my phone nearby as I burn the candle just in case I need to call the fire dept!

I have the same thing happening periodically using Ecosoya cb advanced and an LX wick...not every time, but 15-30 minutes into the burn a big hole appears on the side of the wick....2nd burn it disappears so I really wasn't too worried about it. You are absolutely right about not seeing it at all until after the burn. I hate 2nd pours, never work for me, so I'm living with it! I am going back to strickly C-3 wax because it never did this and I can deal with the few issues I have with it....besides which I can get it much cheaper!

Patience and just a bit of insanity...just when you get something right, you decide to try something else and the process starts all over. But we all love it and we all thank God for this forum!

Hope you get some responses because I can't get one to work without double wicking on the 4". The LX wicks do the best but they shroom soooo badly, I'm thinking about trying another type. I just bought some Eco wicks but I quit using the 4" container so the wicks are for 3"....can't test the 4" yet. The LX wicks are the only ones that also drop burnt bits into the wax when you extinguish every time! Love the MP, but wondering if its worth the mess it makes?

Ditto...I use C-3 heat to 170-175, pour between 130-140 (I like it closer to 130) but I do Heat my jars. Depending on the weather I get some of that dang circular cracking on the surface that C-3 loves to do. I'm considering trying a bit of the Universal additive to see if it resolves that problem. No more "bubbles" since I started heating jars and pouring SLOW. HTH:shocked2:

Or you could save some $$ and quit using dye altogether which is what I did. The dye was frustrating me more than anything. I got some deep colors (I also use C-3) but was ending up with frosting or tiny specks of "undissolved dye?" throughout with some colors (adding at 170-175 and stirring until my hand wanted to fall off!.) I used the chips, blocks and liquid. Anyway, point I was going to make is my customers could care less, they love the white as long as their fragrance is there. I changed the names on most of my fragrances so that the "Mind" doesn't tell you it should be green or red or pink. The new names and the creamy white also allowed me to up the price a bit as they are now more like a "designer type" candle. Example: for lavender I call it Serenity yellow cake, Dolce black tea, Zen I used several Italian names, since all my ancestors are Italian. This allowed me to be even more "creative" and I love it! I now enjoy making candles which is what I wanted out of this business.

I'm using the LX 24 also for a 3" square and it is working quite well with most fo's. Tried LX26 first and it burned a bit too hot and bad shrooms!