Soapmaker Man

Sounds like leaking glycerin to me. Paul....

Nope, Jeri, everything looks right to me. I guess the soap ferries were controlling this batch. Just try again, I don't see any reason why this batch did this. On another note about figuring volume. I take my normal ounces of oils I use in a normal CP batch multiply by .80 to come with the reduced weight of oils because of the added salt. I take that number, (oils for salt batch) multiply by .8 to get my amount of salt for the batch. These numbers work to fill my mold up to the regular CP log I produce. Hope this helps. Paul....

Golly, guys, don't know what to say.:tiptoe::embarasse I have 3 batches under my belt, and all 3 were fine, bar the last one acted a little weird on me, but is fine now. Here is a picture of the second batch using the recipe of 75% CO, 15% Shea Butter, and 10% SAO. This was the best of the 3 batches I've done. I scented them with "Riverdance, coloured with hydrated chromium green oxide. They cut beautifully within 1 hour of pouring... Paul....

No problem, ma'am! We have all been where you are and I still learn new things all the time. I still look to more experiences soapiers and still the same "why" questions too! I just hope I was not too confusing for you. Thanks!:highfive: Paul....

I'm sorry Grandma if I confused you. My bad! I do not use a 50% lye solution in my batch of soap, never have, never will. My recipes range from 28 to 33% lye solutions. I add very cold farm fresh goat milk to my batter to bring down my lye percentage to the 28 to 33% range. A 50% lye solution used straight in a batch is considered "unsafe." Anything over a 40% lye solution is considered an "unsafe" standard as far as that goes. That is what most online calcs. will show. Yes, like Jbren mentioned, a 50% lye solution is 50%, by weight lye, and 50% liquids by weight, as a 33% is 2 parts liquids to 1 part lye, or a 25% solution is 4 parts liquids to 1 part lye. The amount of lye needed to saponify a batch is a set number; (x) ounces of oils to (x) ounces amount of lye to saponify the acids in the oils with the base. The water or other liquids act as a aid to safely incorporate the lye into the chemical process of saponification. You can use a 25% lye concentration, or a 40% lye concentration, all the difference is the amount of water or liquids used and curing time. I hope this sound OK and makes since. For now, if you want to premix, I'd stay with a 30 to 33% lye saturation. Like I mentioned above, a 50% solution is "unsafe" to use by itself, in a batter. I add very cold goat milk to my batter to bring my lye concentration down upon emulsification, to between 29 to 33%. I have never went above 35% lye solution in a recipe (discounted liquids). Paul....

Yea, I only mix up about a quart or so of 50% lye solution at a time in my plastic bottles. I let it cool for a while then shake it up, but only about 1/3 full. It's worked well for about a year now. Paul....

Sounds like a good ideal. I use an old HDPE "Whisk" laundry detergent bottle for my premix oils and a Clorox bottle with the built in pour spout and cap for my premixed lye solution. I can use a plastic funnel and pour my lye in and weigh it out then pour my liquid in and weigh it out too. I like using aloe vera juice to make up my premix lye solution with. Anyway, the bottles are free and work great for this! I can shake up my oils and lye solution and it just runs back down into the bottle. I just make sure the big caps are screwed on tightly first. Paul....

I go over 1 ounce only when I do my salt bars. The heat that the added salt generates will burn off some lower flash point oils. Next time I do a salt bar batch, I'm going to take the temp at max heating to see just how hot my log gets. Like mentioned before, it depends on the supplier. If you get your scents from a candle supply company, they, or the manufacturer they buy from may add DPG to cut the FO, even a skin safe FO. I like buying my FO's from only soap supply companies. Paul....

Jeri, that is too cool! Keep us posted on how it turns out for you!:highfive: Perhaps we can see those babies cut tomorrow. Have fun! Paul....

Regular "Mortin" salt contains the same thing, and I use it all the time in my salt bars. It's what makes Mortin salt "When it rains, it pours," pour! LOL Paul....

CareBear, thats how I did it when I was a kid on my Grandma's farm...had a halg gallon of fresh cream skimmed off the top on the galvanised milk jugs, then shake the dickens out of it! We would strain through a piece of cheesecloth, retreive the butter, salt it, turn it a few times to mix the salt with two tablespoons, enjoy! Gave a whoe new defination to the song "Shake it up baby!" let me tell you! LOL:grin2:

Im sorry, my bad. Is that the same as ghee? I think they use it in India. I think it is used in Hindu Religous services. I love clarified butter on my lobster tail & shrimp. Thanks for the info.

I do exactally as she said. :highfive: Paul....

Your question got me to wondering, as I have seen this listed in the "oils, butters & fats" area there. They are not referring to "butter" as we define it. Here is a direct link to what they define "milk fat (bovine)" as; http://www.soapcalc.com/faq.asp Look at question #6 and click. The answer will be there for you to read. Hope this helps. It answered if for me. Paul....

Kudos to you!:highfive: As everyone else says, embrace your new found habbit called soapmaking! I'm starting on my 2nd year of my addiction! Paul....

Dianna's Sugar Plumb Sundries. She is in TN. Fast shipper too! She has few FO's, but those she has are great! I just recently soaped her Blueberry FO, its to die for! Paul....

I've soaped DSPS's Strawberry, and it did not discolour. It smells great! I have a bar that is a year old and still smells great! Paul....

I made my second batch last night using 75% CO, 15% Shea, and 10% SAO. I took a 8% lye discount. This time I used a few more ounces of oils and cut back on the amount of salt I added. Last time< I also, did 1:1 salt to oil. This time, I did 75% salt to oils, added just before trace, (thin trace) and whisked it in by hand for 3 or 4 minutes. I cut 55 minutes after pouring into my mold. Boy does it heat up. When I cut, the log was almost too hot to handle still, but cut much better than my first batch, which I waited for about 70 minutes to cut. That first batch was a little on the crumbly side, this batch, and new recipe, cut beautifully! The family (my testers) love the batch I first made. All gave it a "thumbs up!" Paul....

Oh sure you could! It gets kinda pricy though if you don't add it with Co or PKO though. It really bubbles, so I've heard.

I'm with Scented...I keep my recipes around the 45 hardness area. I use @16 to 17% CO and 11 to 12% PKO. I also use tallow and lard in every batch with a little cocoa butter (5% or so) with my soft oils of RBO, Canola, HO sunflower and castor. My recipe using a 33% lye solution, usually come in between a 43 to 47 hardness. Paul....

I use a combo of 17% CO and 11 to 12% PKO in my favorite recipe. I am mainly an AF soapmaker. I sub out the beef tallow and lard for palm oil when I do a veggie recipe or for a special order. I really like the combo of CO & PKO together! Paul....

Is it THAT MUCH better than CO &/or PKO? I use 17% CO & 11% PKO in my favorite recipe. Always wanted to try it, but every time I get ready to turn in an order to Mike, they're out of it! LOL Paul....

Someone wanted to see a picture? I've been using it for a year now in the molds I make. Here is the pic; Like I said, been doing it in my molds for a year...works great!

I use my Presto Pots JUST for melting my oils, butters, beees way candle wax, so & so forth. I combine my lye, additives, fo's or eo's outside in a plastic, safe pot, with rounded bottom and tall sides so I can stick blend everything safely. No lye, stick blenders, or anything else in my pots! I usually melt my oils on a very low temp setting. The Presto Pot cycles to keep the heat gently applied to your oils. Works great for me. Paul....