Soapmaker Man

Tish, I state to all my customers that I as well as testers for me, have CPOP TOG molds with these liners safe up to 170 degrees in the oven. Never had any problems. Most of the time, you just don't need to CPOP in a TOg Mold, though, as you will gert a full gel using the tight fitting lid. They will be OK at 150*! Paul....

Sorry ladies:embarasse I do not have an website yet! As I elplained in a few PM's, I hope to have one by the end of Feb. Anyone want to trade setting me up one for some TOG Soapmaking Tools? Serious. I was going to do it myself, but am too busy making my molds. My email addy for getting in touch with me is; soapmoldmaker@wmconnect.com So far, most molds sold have been by word-of-mouth amoung various forums. I've been doing this since this late spring, 2006. Thank you all for all the kind words about my mold. I love building a high quality product for my soapmaking friends to use for many years to come! Paul....

Absolutely 100% correct. I change the default there to 33 myself. When I calculate the recipe, it tells me how much liquid to use, and how much lye. If it calls for, like you say, 4 ounces of lye, take the 4 ounces of lye add that to 4 ounces of water, so you get a 50% lye solution. Now lets say that the recipe calls for 10 ounces of liquid, I take the 4 ounces off the 10, leaving 6 ounces to add to the soap batter. I would add 5 ounces of the caned Gm, and 1 more ounce of water to the soap base with the allready added and stirred in 50% solution. Add this very cold GM to the batter, slowly stirring it into the batter, and continue to SB until the level of trace you normally pour or swirl at. I started out freezing my GM, but have been doing it this way for 7 or 8 months now with great success. I like to use room temp oils and fats, as well as RT 50 lye solution. It gives a great result between that and using very cold gm stirred into the batter. Try it and please let me know how this method works for you! Paul....

WOOOHOOO! Someone actually understood something I tried to explain! Makes me feel all tingly inside! Thanks! Paul....

A body can never ask too many questions! First, no, I do not cut these liners for any other wood mold makers. They have to be cut to exacting specifications. All my molds are exactally the same heigth, width and length, so I sell replacement liners or extra sets...but for TOG Molds only. The second question is also, NO, they do not absork oils or colorants. You simply wash under warm water rubbibg them with your hands or a rag, dry and make more soap. Paul....

The TOG Duel Log/Slab Mold With Liner System. In the 2 log setup; The slab setup: With the included tight fitting lid; ETA: These are the last pics I'm posting. Please PM me if anyone has any more questions. Thanks...Paul...

NO, no. My lye solution is less than 50%! I start with a 50% lye solution, then add my fresh GM to the base to reduce the total lye solution strength to about 32%. Let me explain better. Lets say my recipe calls for 4.35 ounces of lye. I add 8.70 ounces of my premixed lye solution to my RT oils and fats. I SB for a few bursts to mix well. Now lets say that my recipe calls for a total of 10.5 ounces of liquids. I take 10.5 minus the 4.35 ounces of aloe vera juice that was in my premix. So I add 6.15 ounces of cold goat milk to the base soap batter, thus reducing the strength of the lye solution to the 32% I want in my recipe. This keeps my GM from turning that terrible orangish tan and smelling foul because the lye has burned the sugars in the goat milk. Hope this is clearer now! Sometimes I make it worse, but I hope I explained it well. Paul....

Eugenia, that is what I do too. I use a 50% lye solution. I use aloe vera juice to make my lye solution. When I make soap, I just SB, lightly until mixed really good, the 50% solution into my fats and oils. Then I add my cold goat milk and/or coconut milk (no guar gum added) to that mixture and stir by hand for a minute then SB until light trace. I like my 50% lye solution and oils and fats to be RT, and the milks to be very cold. I have a lot of play time and really light GM soaps, especially since I've started using fresh GM! LOVE IT! Paul....

Interesting reading CareBear! Thanks for the link. So we should wash the soap to clean it before, or as we wash our hands. I'd rather see an old bar of soap being used to clean ones hands in a bathroom, than not using anything to wash with after using the facilities, for sure!

Kymber, I have made a few of my molds 12" long instead of the normal 10" length. I can make one 20" or perhaps up to 24" if anyone wanted one that long. I'm working on a wire cutting system for my TOG molds at the moment. It will slice the logs into bars and slice the slabs into bars, all in one unit. And most importantly, a web site! Paul....

Almost right, Scented! My soap company is called "The 'Ole Goat Soaps & Lotions Co. My screen name is Soapmaker Man. Real first name is Paul. LOL When I started into my molds and bevellers, we came up with the name TOG, short for "The 'Ole Goat." The 'Ole Goat since all I make is goat milk based soaps and lotions. There you all have it; right from The 'Ole Goat's mouth.

Your too funny CareBear! LOL:laugh2: I can 100% guarantee with my TOG Mold, the soap will be staring you in the face within 15 seconds of pulling the pins out, and letting the ends come off and the sides swing down! That neon green liner material is close to being in your hands!!:highfive: Paul....

This is my TOG Duel Log/Slab Mold; My reuseable material has always been the Darice Foamy Sheets. I buy mine at Wal-Mart. Sometimes I have to buy elsewhere, but Wal-Mart has the best price. I use my paper cutter to precisely cut these so they fit tightly in my TOG Mold. Just wash under warm water, dry, make more soap. My company color is the Neon Green. Paul....

Beleave me, I know, it works! I am the one that started this wave. I have been using it in my TOG molds since this spring. My secret is revealed...LOL LOL:laugh2: A lot of TOG Molds out there. Paul....

Hey, maybe so! LOL I used to put on ladies hose when I went deer hunting back in cold Missouri. Beleave me, they keep you warm even better than mens long-johns! :laugh2:

I made a mellon-ball bevel tool to ease my edges. It gives my bars a "rounded" edge, not a 45* bevel as you get with the normal beveler. Some spritz their soap with alachol and rub down with ladies pantyhose to shine them up. I said some....not everybody does this...LOL:laugh2:

That would be fine, I'd like to see this silk! Thanks Carrie! I cam PM you my snail mail addy! It is true there is some debris in this silk. I bought 2 doggie wire brushes and comb my silk free of the debris. It takes only a short time to clean an ounce of the cacoon pieces. Please contact me....and thanks!

I bought an 8 ounce bag of Tussa Silk Noils from The Woolery this last spring. 8 ounces is like a huge cotton candy bag! Since I found them, I have sent a lot of soapiers to them; and everyone loves their silk! GREAT PRICING! Scroll down to the "TUSSAH SILK NOILS" about 2/3 down the page. They sell 8 ounces for only $12.00 Here is the link; http://www.woolery.com/Pages/fibers.html#exotic Paul....

Great job explaining the difference, AJ!

Leisa, I started out making only GM soaps in late October 2005, and never tried anything else! Granted, I have been is several swaps on various forums and can tell you in my opinion that any cp or hp soap is better than the best M&P, but, granted, I am opioniated! LOl I take a 5% SF discount because the GM adds its own amount of fat and naturly lowers the pH of the soap. I do let all my soaps cure for at least 4 to 5 weeks, to harden up, better bubbles, and last longer for my customers. I owned a Residential & Comercial Fence Company for almost 20 years, and handled the CCA treated wood used in fencing. The DR's told me that my problem was probably caused because I did not wear gloves and handled many semi-truck loads of CCA treated wood! Once I started making my own goat milk soaps, also recomended by my Dermitologist after the expensive meds did not work, i started noticing a difference in my hands within the first month! I found my nitch, and here I am today still making and selling my GM based soaps and lotions. You must try a good GM CP or HP soap! Feel the difference it makes like I did1 Paul.... ;)

Not yet....but I have contacted someone who is putting one together for my GM soaps, creams, & lotions. I think I'll have my TOG Moulds in the same web-site, also. Look for it hopefully by the end of February. Until then you can E-mail me ; soapmoldmaker@wmconnect.com I can telly you that there is a HUGE difference between a GM M&P base and a true GM CP soap! I use GM, aloevera juice, silk, and 9 other oils and butters in my main recipe. It does contain beef tallow I render and lard...i just love AF's! I can do the same recipe in a vegan soap, too. Glad to meet you here at CT! Paul....

Leisa; all I make is 100% fresh goat's milk soaps and lotions. I started making my own soaps over a year ago because I too had severe eczema on the palms of my hands. It was itchy and scaley, ugleee! The Dr's prescribed all kinds of ointments and creams, some costing $150.00 for a 3 ounce tube! After using my GM soap and hand cream, my problems were gone in a few months. Now, you can't even see where it used to be on my hands! Paul... The 'Ole Goat Soaps & Lotions Co. The Soapmaker Man Home of the TOG Duel Log/Slab Mold W/Liner System

Hi Leisa! Here is the link to Camden-Grey here in Florida. (Miami) Their prices are pretty fair. Their shipping has came down too, a bit anyway! Here it is; http://www.bestdeal.org/essential-camden/mandpgoat-2.html They have several M&P bases to choose from. They even have a new GM lotion & cream base; all you do is add DW and thin to your consistancy. Everything is allready in there, all you do is add your EO's or FO's. HTH Paul....

Goat milk is all I have ever made, since day one almost a year ago now. I started using silk in my gm soap and it is even nicer feeling. LOVE GOAT MILK SOAP!!!

I will keep it Kymber. Most everyone wants the new style now, as it sells for only $5.00 more than yours! Thanks again everyone for your thoughts and suggestions, keep them coming! Thank you Kymber and your soap looks soooo cooool!!! ETA: Sorry Kymber, wrong quote I clicked on...I ment the quote about keeping the mold!