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joym

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Everything posted by joym

  1. If you have vybar, you won't need stearic -
  2. My guess: the basic candle is a chunk pillar, made with the flower pot plug insert. The brown "cattails" are strips of wax which would be put in at the same time as the ivory chunks; the "leaves" are made by making a hole by inserting a wire (or small diameter knitting needle) along the mold after doing the overpour, and then dropping brown or green liquid dye (using a toothpick) into the hole while the wax is still warm - may have to heat gun the top to help the dye move down the "holes".
  3. try warming the top of your cupcake slightly with a heat gun before you put on the grubby - also sometimes necessary to build up in layers, instead of putting on a big "glob" at a time.
  4. At one time I found some in the camping section of Wal-Mart; guess whether or not that would work for you depends on how many you need, what size, price range, etc.
  5. You have to wrap the votive in a piece of tulle (or similar "see-thru" fabric), gather the fabric around the stem and then catch it in the florist's tape.
  6. I dip them many, many times - maybe 6 or 7 - Also, have the wax about 150-160 degrees. I use 139-140 mp paraffin. HTH.
  7. I use Vybar at about 1 t/#, 6% fo, mostly CD wicks, and have awesome throw.
  8. I've found that for craft fairs about 20 is the right number; seems people do get confused if there are too many. When I first started I tried to buy every scent anyone ever asked for; unfortunately, the person who asked for it seldom came back & I spent a lot of money and ended up stuck with a lot of fragrance oils no one else wanted. I even made some unscented candles because that's what someone asked for; needless to say, I had to melt those down & add fragrance! Also, just a hint, try combining some of the fragrances you already have to create some that are exclusive to your line.
  9. Anyone else going to the IGCA Convention in Cleveland in July?
  10. Maybe dribble some liquid dye down the inside edge of the mold before pouring in wax?
  11. I also like the liquid dyes from French, but I think their minimum is 1# - at one time, Alabaster carried French's, don't know if this is still true, but if it is you can order in much smaller quantity. I have also had good luck with the ones from Bitter Creek.
  12. You might try Goo Gone or Dis-solve-it. Test a small amount on the outside of the mold in a place that won't matter. I use either of these products on my formica counters.
  13. I use a mold release powder I get from Candlewic - I don't know if any other company sells it. Usually about 1 tsp/5-6 #'s is sufficient.
  14. Haven't tried it, but how about a heavy watercolor paper?
  15. I tried a couple two or three years ago - I do prefer the ones from Alabaster (which are from French) and the ones from Bitter Creek North. The Evo's may be different now, but I thought it took too much to get the depth I like - I do mostly primitive looks and need deep & dark coloring.
  16. Try testing with a different fragrance oil - then you'll have a better idea - (Sorry, I don't use the wax or fo you are using, so can't give a more definite answer.)
  17. Now's the time I test new fragrances, style of candles, etc. & stock up for fall. (I also work shorter days, because I know what it will be like in the fall!) Hang in there and enjoy a bit of a breather.
  18. I use several of their fragrances & find them to be excellent--the only problem is that they require a 25# purchase. Bitter Creek North has several of their fragrances; also Early American Candle does; there may be others that I'm not familiar with. hth
  19. I think it's 12, based on the standard size votive, shrink-wrapped - 5 across the bottom and 7 on top layer.
  20. I've had the molds for several years and love them. I also order the wicks and holders from Candlewic. I use either a votive or pillar (usually) wax in mine - I think any container wax, except maybe a hard one like IGI 4786 would be too soft.
  21. Be sure to check the temperature of the oven before putting something with wax in it. cheap paper plates are great to put under pouring pots, etc. to make clean-up easier.
  22. Try to look at the agreement as if you were the retailer. I've been doing wholesale for about 4 years now, and have never found it necessary to have an agreement of this type. Almost all of my retailers pay by credit card, which I charge the same day I ship. I have found, by trial and error, that it's best to have a specific line and number of items that you offer wholesale; some of the items I make for craft fairs & direct retail are too time consuming, etc. to offer wholesale. Hope this helps - going from retail (craft fairs) to wholesale is a big jump and needs some very careful consideration.
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