joym
-
Posts
175 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Articles
Media Demo
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Blogs
Downloads
Everything posted by joym
-
Can't say for sure, but appears to be HDPE - a kind of plastic mold often used for soapmaking --
-
Sorry I didn't get back to you on this before - I didn't realize I was supposed to check for PM's!!!
I live in the USA so no problems ordering from Peaks (in fact, I'm only about a 10 hour drive from their warehouse.))
Hope you're well.
Joy
-
Don't know what wax you're using, but with one or two heavy vanilla fragrances, I've added a very, very, very small amount of Vybar, and that helped incoporate the fo.
-
Yes, you can use the same wax for the overpour, as long as it is hard enough to release from the "mold" - 4786 will work. Don't remember why I used a different one, think it might have just been a way of using up what was left in the pot from my 1343 pours. Sorry, it was something I did several years ago, and no pictures available.
-
I used to do chunk style "muffin melts" - made chunks with IGI 4786, put chunks in mini muffin pan, and then overpoured with either 4794 or 1343. ---- Perhaps could use square "brownie bite" pans - with any combination of waxes that are hard enough to hold shape when removed from the pan??????
-
A blend with a lower melt point paraffin might work better --
-
I've used this same rack for the last three years; sometimes on a tabletop with one pole, and for larger shows both poles. When I use the two poles to make a taller stand, I put two "tv" trays on either side, to keep people from tripping on the feet, and also to hold some extra melts.
-
Depends on which container wax - I use straight 4786; works great.
-
Be sure the glitter is the kind that won't catch on fire. Sprinkles work; also powdered spices (light sprinkle) & sugar. You can color sugar by putting a drop or two of food coloring in it and shaking or stirring. Wax crumbs are good, as are small wax embeds.
-
If it was paraffin and did not have fragrance in it, you should be able to use it without a problem. for a few candles I make, I have to bring the wax with fo already in it to slightly above 200 for a short time.
-
Thanks everyone. I ordered samples from RE of the ones recommended. Hate to start over again with testing, etc. since Cinnamon apples is one of my best sellers in rosehip potpourri as well as candles/melts, but just can't see spending $350-400 on one fragrance at this time. To justajesuschick - I'm near Wichita; thanks for the offer of samples. (Do you do any shows in Kansas? I'll be doing one in Lenexa at the end of this month.) To PeggyK - I tested the one from BCN a few years ago, and, while it was OK, it wasn't the same number as the one I have been using, and I didn't like it quite as much.
-
I've been using a Hot Apple Pie, calling it cinnamon apples, from French Color & Fragrance, but am now out and don't want to order another 25# at this time. Anyone have any suggestions for a good one that I can order in lower quantity?
-
I have/have had several Presto pots. I found that the temperature control/guage is not accurate and that I always have to use a thermometer to be sure I'm working in the right temperature range.
-
Was this candle poured last? Sometimes wax can have water in it, and the water will drop to the bottom on the pot.
-
I use stearic acid and vybar in my unscented paraffin wax shells and get a smooth, shiny surface.
-
2 different Lilac FOs turn my wax ashy blue!
joym replied to msant's topic in Vegetable Wax & Beeswax Candle Making
I have also experienced this, in paraffin dyed lavender, with the Lilac fragrance from NG. I think it's ugly, but haven't been able to find a way to not have it happen. -
If you're asking about cores for carved candles, I use 1343 with stearic acid added.
-
Have used them for molds and had very satisfactory experience. Sorry, have not used for fo's.
-
Bitter Creek North does have some of French's fragrances. I use several of their fragrances and find that they have a very long shelf life, so what you have on hand is probably still good. Sorry, don't know about your waxes as I've never used them.
-
When I made them, I put 6 in a 4 x 6 ziplock polypropylene bag from Associated Bag. (Unfortunatley Associated Bag does have a 1,000 minimum for these bags.)
-
You said in one of your postings that there were "beads" on top of the wax. In my opinion, this is most likely fragrance oil seepage, and a probable cause of the flare-up; especially so since the flare-up did not occur on subsequent burns. I've recently done several tests of wood wicks (all from the same supplier) in the same wax/additive/container combination, and have found, much to my dissappointment, that not all of the wicks burn the same.
-
Paint filters.
-
Cut and Curl--starting on a budget?
joym replied to jackie's topic in General Candle Making Discussions
4625 is not the best, but could be used for practice. I was taught to only use one color plus clear when I first started; that way you can remelt and reuse the wax. You may need two vats of hot wax; one you're dipping into and one to refill the dipping vat. Coffee cans might work; what about tall juice cans? Also, if you have a Presto pot, put water in it and then the "can" inside. Liquid dye will bleed, but would b OK for practice runs; but need pigment for anything you want to keep. I have her book, and think it's worth the money. -
I would contact the supplier and ask them if the jars meet the standards for candles before I junked them.
-
Cleaning the wax from pouring containers
joym replied to lovinit's topic in General Candle Making Discussions
(I use mostly paraffin) Sometimes I find that wiping out is not good enough for red dye, especially if I need to change to white or a light color. I use either Dis-solveIt or GooGone for these times.