stacien

This is that link that tells what oils are comodogenic. http://www.soapnuts.com/noncomo.html

I know I can tell the difference between vege and tallow soaps. You can smell the base of the tallow. My grandma use to cook with lard and I will always remember that smell. It just depends on the kind of customers you want to attract. I am a girly girl I love perfumeries and natural soaps but I don't feel clean using lard to scrub my butt. Any source of fat is going to be comedogenic as far as clogging your poors. I have a list somewhere download in my computer that lists what oils are comedogenic. If I find it I will post it. It made sense why certain soaps were making my skin feel oilier.

Suzanne, Did you try www.onlinelabels.com/ I didn't check for clear though I am curious about them myself but they have a big assortment.

That is true. I noticed Swanscreek candles try to cover up their frosting by putting soy beads on top of all their candles then they put a little disk inside explaining the characterisitics of soy. I am assuming they back up 100% soy. I guess after while this board makes you crazy because you have the these smaller candle businesses like Soylights. I found her candles in Lake Geneva last weekend. Not one of her candles have frost marks. I cannot say she uses 100% soy or not she doesn't disclose it on her website but how nice it was to see her candles so smooth and even colored and she uses the same jars as me. I have felt the same way about the drafting. I have seen variables with testing but Golden Brands won't back that theory up. My gut says otherwise with Crystalization and certain dyes. I have thought about using a space heater when I work.

Hi everyone, I am having a difficult time with these Lonestar liquid dyes lately. I am getting horrible frosting. I use 415 soy sometimes with 3% BW sometimes without. I get it to set up beautifully. But for some reason it always starts to frost. I think my house is so drafty that it enhances it even more. I know a few of you use Lonestar if you have any advise please let me know. Anyone who uses 100% soy. Or if there is a dye that sets up in soy easily. I keep hearing about Pryme and Evo I even heard about these Crystals. Thanks for you time.

I use Liquid dye from Lonestar. I get a lot of frosting no matter what I try. It gets worse when the room is cooler. I first bought the color blocks when I first started. It never bothered me to wait for it to melt all the way. I did get solid coloring. But the pain was shaving it off for small batches. That is where drops is more convenient. If I want to throw out a quick tester candle I just add a drop or two. I am just frustrated and I don't feel like doing a large math calculation just to color a candle. I have a nice smooth pouring technique down pat. I am just not comfortable with the blooming. Has anyone ever used these dyes?

I am going to try an ECO 12. I recently tried an ECO 10 on a three inch diameter 10 oz melting pot and it burned perfectly. I cannot double wick because it does taper down.

Geek, he told me the same method works with the 415. I will try that one again. I am still skeptical about 464 because you can't take a heat gun to smooth it out. You get only one shot to pour or you do a second pour. I can honestly say I am too much of a perfectionist with my tops to accept that. I have to think it over some more.

I am trying one of those Anchor Hocking apple shaped jars. I tried cotton 62's and HTP 105. The wax I am using is 415 with a smidge of beeswax in it. It looks almost 3 1/2" diameter. I have some ECO wicks, some CD's and some LX's to try. Any suggestions what would be perfect for that kind of a jar?

Geek I totall agree with you. I tried all last night with the same color purple with four different temps. All frosted or some pitted. I cant use a heat gun. I was wondering if it was easier just using the 415 with beeswax. At least I can run a heat gun over it. Jason I am so glad you chimed in because I was going to PM you anyway. I will try that for sure. I am having a horrible time with frosting and this wax. I got it to set up perfect at 150 but had horrible frosting. I have a whole line of Lone star liquid dyes I can't buy a whole new batch to accomodate this wax. It is a great wax but how can you correct mistakes?

I tried three different temps so far. I poured at 135 it had sink holes. I poured another at 150 it looked great a smooth top didn't pull away from the wick. So I decided to try an push for 160. It set up beautiful except for a small sink hole. So now I am just taking a shot at 170 to be curious. The only great difficulty I am having is taking a heat gun to the 135 that had sink holes. It will not smooth out. I have tried and tried and it refuses. Its almost like the wax separates from the other vegetable oil it is mixed with causing cottage cheese. What do we do if a heat gun won't work? Do we remelt that whole container and repour it?

My husband is in love with buttercream. He would always buy Yankees and burn them in his office. Then I decided to start making buttercreams for him with 415. What a difference. Because the soy is already a technically a food base. It highly enhanced that buttercream even more. It smell like a cake in my house. I have a large house and people would walk in asking if I was baking. I agree parafin might pick up on other scents better. But On certain sents with soy it is a whole other world with scent throw especially perfumes and bakery scents. Coffees, Cakes, BBW, VS, Chocolate chip cookie is another good one, Birthday cake.

Susan, I had the same problem with a melting pot jar. My husband went to put the lid back on it. He didn't know his own strength because all he did was replace the lid and it shattered in his hand. A lot of the glass blown jars are thinner compared to the machine pressed which is like Yankee and Beanpod use. The Jar Store even told me there is a difference in thickness.

AJ, lol. I use the big molds for my kids with chocolate. And the melt size ones I kept for wax. It will be interesting to use little use the little Jewish star molds at Hannukah that is a melt I havent seen yet. Plus she has naughty molds she used for bachelor and bachelorette parties. I even have molds with our last name on it. This is way more fun than trying to wick a candle. Now I just have to perfect the wax. I did notice on warmer days they get a little softer. I might consider the 474.

What other companies have the same scent as Birthday Cake only with a different name?

:bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: :bow: Your GB candle cult

I like licorice!

Donita I just want to say I saw your website and you are a true inspirational artist. That is all pure artwork. I like how you put your picture in to show who the artist is and the beautiful scenery behind you. How old are you 39?

So if they are backed up I better call. I sent them an email the other day. Geek, post your single wick results. If I recall we both use the melting pot jars. So far I am okay with two HTP 104 or 105's varying with the scents. The same thing with the honey pot jars but I want to expirement more.

Jason will GB ever be coming out with a pillar blend? Is 474 to soft to try with a pillar?

I use EO's in MC 125. So far so good. With lavender it is a top note scent so you won't require as much other wise you have wicking problems. I do a top note blend of lavender, spearamint and peppermint. Its a good Sinus clearing blend or a room freshener. Sometimes using Lavender EO's alone for candles don't give the same effect as say Cold process soap. Even in the bottle pure Lavender doesn't smell as pretty as when diluted with a carrier oil or used in a product.

I purchased a sample of Cocoa Cuppachino from MC. Used 1 oz per pound in MC 125. Great scent. But man! I wicked it with two HTP's 104 in a 16oz Melting pot jar. That size has been working great so far with other scents. Well not for this FO. So I set it on the wax melter melted it down and repoured it into another jar with two HTP 105's. It seems ilke it is burning too hot but the melt pool is a 1/2 an inch and the flame is about the same. I used a coffee colored liquid dye from Lone Star and it frosted all over. I poured this baby at three different temps. I think for me its the FO because I used the same coloring with regular coffee from Nature's Garden and it was prefect. I hate my big cold house. It makes it harder to pour candles. I am also going to venture into some LX wicks. I read how popular they are. Cottons produce to much mushroom for my taste. I noticed that Beanpod uses Zinc. Any opinions on that?

I bought a whole bunch of warmers at walmart for $1.50 a piece. Thats lower than the manufacturer sells them for. I guess they were pushing them so I bought them out. I put them all over the house and melt the left over jars on them and make the house smell nice. I know some won't agree but my sister melts out the remainder wax and then sticks them on the top rack of her dishwasher. Its not different than sticking a libby's drinking glass in it if you really think about it. I reuse mine for testing only.

I was just experimenting with 100%. I will probably end up using them as scent samples. I agree they need to be a little harder. I dont have any soy pillar blend I only have the MC's pillar blend and that is a vegetable based but no soy is involved. I am unfamiliar with blending the two waxes because I don't even know the properties of the pillar blend and MC won't disclose it. I just wanted to keep them from looking ugly and sticking together. My mother in law use to be in the chocolate business so I have over a thousand molds to work with in brand new condition. So I decided to have a little fun lastnight.

I was just messing around because one of the Golden wax suppliers says one of her girls uses 100% soy for her melts and tarts and sticks them in freezer to get them out. I did try that. It worked. Now the key is how do I store them? I can't put them in certain plastic containers because they will dull out and stick together being that it still is a soft wax. Will a zip lock work for time being? Any suggestions.