stacien

Hello, Just wanting to share with you my method on melting wax. Its affordable and its bigger than the presto. I went out and bought the turkey deep fryer that is electric and has the spout on the bottom. It has a temperature setting and it holds about 60-80 pounds of wax. It costed me only $100 from Bed Bath and Beyond. I love using it. Then I just turn it off and reheat again when I am ready. The spout comes in handy.

Sorry such a late post but I was scrolling through. I bought each size of the melting pot jars. I was having difficulties wicking the 24oz and the 16oz with 100% soy. I went as far as to double wicking with HTP 104 and they tunneled. Then I tried doubling 105's that didn't work. So out of curiosity I doubled HTP1212 of course that burned to hot. So I am in limbo. HTP 1212 and 1312 dont work with one. But I noticed that you double 83's and you said it worked. Maybe I am doing something wrong. Paula is great for retail related issues but she couldn't help me when it comes to selecting a wick size for that big of jar and she tried to get me to buy their brand of wax. Saying it was the wax to try theirs and it will work. I would rather just stick with the jars.

I have worked with Eo's longer than candles because I know aromatherapy. If anyone is trying for the first time do your research on them. Learn what scents blend the best. What have harmful effects and what have therapeutic effects. Eo's are stronger than FO's and requires less oil when scenting. There are also no preservatives in them so you must protect them from direct light because they are photsensitive and the scents fade. I love the effects especially blended with soy. They both compliment eachother. They do sell books at barnes and noble. Of basic blends to get you started and all the benefits and the effects.

I think the issue is here for me is I want to make sure there is no petroleum or animal fossilized resources what so ever. I chose soy for natural reasons. If I wanted those elements I would just go straight up parrafin. I can't stand behind a product if I don't know whats in it. I don't want to know the exact amount but I want to know exactly whats in it. If it was a finished candle I could understand. They wouldn't want someone to copy their artwork. But this is a wax that is chemically altered and then resold. What has this manufacturer to lose? Other than admit that they are hiding something in that blend. They claim also there is no soy in the product.

I was buying them before I started making candles. I spoke with a couple of wax distributors. They said it is virtually impossible for 100% to not have any imperfections especially the red ones. Red is very common for mottling. I agree. Its easy for a company that size to lie. Who will challange them? Its like challanging Yankee for wetspots. I bet Tempacure is a way they finish the candles with a heat source. Like we use a heat gun. The have special equipment to smooth out the tops.

I wanted to know if anyone is familiar with Millcreek waxes. I use their 125 soy. I also tried their pillar blend. The description says it is palm wax with coconut oil and other wax additives. Recently I poured a trial pillar and the first one came out absolutely perfect. Not one imperfection. It was creamy and not mottled or feathered for being a palm wax with additives. It almost looked like it had a paraffin base it was so smooth. I called the company and they wouldn't give out any ingredients they said their supplier won't even discose the ingredients to them. But they swear up and down that it is all vegetable based without any parrifin. Should I take their word for it? Does anyone else use their products. I tried to find their supplier. Alot of the other candle supply businesses get their wax and products from the same manufacturers and just name them as their own. Millcreek, Bittercreek, Candlescience all get their FO's from the same manufacturer. It happens to be 10 minutes from my house. I tried to find where Millcreek gets their wax to see the true ingredients but had no luck.