stacien

Now, now guys play nice! We all get the same enjoyment out of this creative craft and for some businesses. We hear so many different things that any person can misunderstand. I have four kids (little ones) so I don't burn candles in all of my rooms because I cannot be present in all of the rooms at once. So I use the warmer. I actually use the warmer you can buy at hobby lobby for $3.99. Nothing fancy. But I burn pure soy and I load that baby up good. I know that goes against ethics. But so far no fatalities. I even attempted with EO's which are way more flammable. That is just for my purposes. I wouldn't ever do that with one I sell. We are all not going to agree what is better animal or vegetable. So just make your melting jars and give a caution not to burn for long periods of time. On any of them! I did like the C4 comment though, that was cute!

I haven't had any problems yet. It is upright more than the roasters. My husband and I looked at those too because they hold up to 60 quarts. But he was turned off to the fact that I would have to use a ladel to get the wax. So we tried the deep fryer. It heats up rather fast. Keep in mind it is technically a deep fryer. So it heats up to 400 easily. When I am done I just unplug it and put the lid on it. I haven't schorched it and the spout hasn't clogged yet. Its metal so when the hot wax sits on it it just melts it down. It has an end cap on it too so it doesn't leak all over the place. Plus the heating coil lifts rigt out so if you do need to clean it, it is a non stick surface. The least I can say is try it. I was skeptical at first but I enjoy it. I just plug it in dump in more wax and do the treadmill why it melts. Then I pour the wax in each individual pouring pot.

I have had no problems with the cotton wicks I think they are labeled as 300C. They burn right through soy. No matter how much scent I load in them.

I would love to try some palm pillars with the feathering and etc. I am new to that wax. I use soy and soy blends normally. What website can lead me to those basics and where do I find that particular wax?

I was wondering if anybody knows which candle supply has a good Coffee FO. I tried Nature's Garden and did not like it. It smelled like day old coffee.

I use the MC pillar blend the directions say to pour it at 160. That temp works beautiful for the candle but makes my molds really hot. I have heard of the metal tape. I am going to ask my husband to get me some.

Anyone out there who is interested in a vegetable pillar wax. I have been using the MC pillar blend and found it awsome. It has a smooth creamy look and slides right out all of the molds. The cold scent throw is great too. I made one with Amoretto from Natures Garden and I walk into my family room and smell it instantly and it isn't even lit. I don't know their base ingredients. MC claims its a palm base with botanical. They will not disclose anything else. But someone told me there manufacturer is Goldend Brands. And I know there pillar brand is soy based. It does have a soy texture to me. I don't care as long as it is all vegetable based. But I do love it so I am promoting it anyone is looking. :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

I was using the screws that came with the molds. I use the putty, about a quarter size then spread it out. It just melts from the heat of the mold. I even put a water bath underneath to suspend the wax (the mold is the round with the elevated square bottom) My husband owns a HVAC company. He says they make a putty in his industry for sheet metal that is heat resistant. I will try his approach. If not I imagine he has other tricks up his sleeve. I just always run across those rubber pins and was wondering if they stop leakage?

Okay I have major leakage with pillars even if I use the screws and the putty. Does anyone know how well the wickpins work. I heard about the magnets too. Or the jiffy wicks. I dont want to even think about buying any if they don't work. Thanks everyone!

I bought one of those electric turkey deep fryers. They run for a bout $99-$120. But they hold around 60-80 lbs of wax. I have the presto too. But I was losing space and for the cost of a couple prestos. I could do large batches at once. Plus it has a built in spout obvious meant to drain the oil but it works great for wax. It also has a thermostat. If you use separate pouring pitures then this is perfect. You can do small jobs or large ones. I don't regret using this. I would actually like another just for pillar wax.

I have been using the MC soy 125. I am testing wicks to fit my jars. I haven't been so lucky with HTP's. I know certain cottons work for me but I am not crazy about the mushrooming. I am still curious about other wicks. I hear alot of people throw around CD and RRD's. I have read the technical info. Can someone explain what is the overall difference. I don't want to take anybodies hardwork or secrets. But I am afraid I might by a specific brand and later realize it was for the wrong purpose. I usually use MC for wicks but if I decide to explore other options I might have to go elswhere because they only carry HTP's and Cottons. Thanks again.

Okay, I did the 126's and honestly I burned that thing for hours and it still didn't hit the sides. My 1312 will at least come closer. I know everyone is different with those. I did try playing around and tried double wicking with a 51-32-18C. It burned to hot about a 3/4-1 inch melt pool. It mushroomed a little too much too. But it hit the sides in a bout one hour. I am going to try double wicking with the 44-28-18c. I bet it won't work but I am a woman on a mission until I get more HTP's. I am currently playing around with a Root candle the small I think its a ten ounce. I cant tip it over to look because it is lit. I was curious about the melt pool. But because of the graduated rim. The first time I lit it it had a great melt pool. Now that it is below the rim it is not hitting the sides. And here I am obsessing. A big company candle like Root cant even wick their candles appropriately.

I have tried putting them 1 inch apart. These jars are kind of thin, so the flames heat up the rims too hot. I will burn it for two - 3 hours because it takes it that long to make a melt pool. Honestly the hype about 126's burning hotter than 1312. Well, not in my case. I just tried one yesterday. As opposed to the 1312's. Both with the same exact wax formulation etc. The 126 didn't even make it to the perimeter. The melt pool looks smallerthan than the 1312's. I did a double 1212 a while back. Major flame size, Major mushrooming and made the jars so hot I couldn't even touch the sides. I think maybe I will try the 105's again. And 60C series in cottons.

I am so frustrated. I have tried almost every wick on these 16oz melting pot jars. I am scenting 1oz per pound. Most people have recommend double wicking with HTP 83's and that doesn't burn hot enough. I have tried doubleing 104's and 105's still not the same. I still have an overhang 126's double are too hot. I tried a little of the cotton wicks. I went all out and used a 62C series. Of course there was a 1 1/2 inch melt pool. I am wondering how a 60 would work. I am not having good luck with the HTP's. I do use the cottons for my aromatherapy candle and my votives. I just never had to double wick with those. Any imput out there?

Okay Guys, I was wondering if anyone knew which supplier has the cheapest Soy wicks? So far Candlescience is the cheapest for HTP's but does anyone know where else?

Hey Blokes, I notice alot of you posting you were having difficulties with certain fragrances and their scent throw. First of all and most of all you need to refer to this site http://www.aromaweb.com/ It is a helpul resource for EO's for people that are not educated in them. The hazardous ones you are referring to are using for direct skin contact. It doesn't refer for inhalation otherwise they wouldn't be called aromatherpy. Yes they can ignite so you cannot load up a candle with as much as regular FO's. Usually 1/2 oz per pound of wax because they are pure botanical concentrates. Not oil and alchohol bases like FO's. Second of all when purchasing EO's know your oils. Cold pressed is the best as opossed to distilled. Plus it cannot contain any carrier oils. Carrier oils are usually used for oil burners or direct skin contact. It basically waters them down. If you notice you are burning a scent and its throw is weak. There is a reason. EO's are base on Perfume Notes. In other words scent strengths. Top, Middle and base note. Top notes are scents that can stand alone strength wise without any blending. Middle to Base note scents work better in a blend. Top Notes can also be blended with the mid and base notes. But the Top note usually is dominant in the blend. Top notes can also be blended together. They tend create a stronger effect. For example Lavender, Speariment, Peppermint, Sweet Orange and Camomile are all top note scents. There are several others. We can use these alone and have a strong scent. But other scents like Patachouli, Vanilla, Ylang, Ylang are middle to base note scents. If we use them alone they are not strong enough to put out a great throw. That is why all of the big expensive vegetable candles like Ergo and Votivo use them in a blend. Its name by recognigtion of those fragrances for the consumer but they have to blend them in order to make them strong enough to market. You could give a percentage for how much to use but it is not as consistant. You could use more or less their strength is what it is. Blending is what you have to understand. Sometimes its easier to buy a premade blend if you don't have enought experience with them. Also most important factor they are photosensitive so keep them out of direct light for long periods of time. These manufacturers don't stress that enough. They don't have as long of a shelf life as EO's so when you buy don't buy in too much excessive. Make sure you buy what you use. It sound like a lot of talk but this is why amomatherapist usually have to be certified. Because there is more room for error in this line. But I tell you if you get just the right blend and mix it with a vegetable wax candle or in a cold processed soap. It is intoxicating. Parafin doesn't throw EO's as well. You will notice alot of aromatherapy candles are vegetable or palm waxes in the big boy brands. And not because of the naturalist's hype going on. Remember to look up that sight or even get some books. Good Luck,

Hi everyone, I use MC soy 125. Does anyone feel that using a vegetable blend would carry the scent or improve the burn even better. Any Advice.

I purchased the pillar blend from Millcreek wax. I have made some 4x4.5 and the brick pillars and votives and they just slide right out of the molds. You pour exactly at 160. They also have a creamy smooth look to them. Apparently it is manufactured through golden brands which alot of people on this sight root for. So whichever company you choose.

I took your advise and email Jason to ask him about the pillar blend. I didn't get a reply yet. Either the girl at MC wasn't listening close enough but their web sight says the Pillar blend is palm based with coconut oil and other botanicals. Yet if you go through Goldens they say their pillar blend is Soy based with cottonseed oils. When you get a chance try their pillar blend and tell me what you think. Its a great wax I just want to make sure it is all vegetable. I will try double wicking again. I have no other option with this jar. I also have 24oz and they surely have to be double wicked. Maybe I am turned off to HTP wicks I see what people mean when they say they lean off to one side. I get a melt pool going that direction. I think I would rather risk the mushrooming. Have you tried any cotton wicks for double wicking yet with that wax. I have a ton of 62's I wonder if those are two big? I like the Melting Pot Jars but DH decided to order a ton of the frosted ones. I want to save the frosted look for aromatherapy with another style. I wanted to do plain glass. So I have to wait to use up these jars. A lot of people told me they like that style for an apothacary. I wish it was a tad thicker. My DH went to put the lid back on and he shattered the jar just with his strength. He is spoiled by the thickness of YC jars.

By the way geek I just found your other post in 100% vegetable or not. I am going to check with Golden regarding the pillar blend. Just for allergy reasons because I have a skin reaction to parafin. So I NEED to make sure there is absolutely none. Thanks again.

Hi Geek, I was usually use 1 oz weighed of Natures Garden FO's to 16 oz weighed of MC's 125 soy. It said all soybean whether wax or oil additives. I was trying not to double wick because it would seem so hot to me which made me feel like I was making more carbon than desired. I guess double wicking intimidates me. I know everyone will say maybe the wick is too large? But its the heat of two flames that gets me. Is MC'S 415 the same as 125? Have you also tried their pillar? They won't tell me all of the ingredients just that there is no soy and no parafin in it. It has an unusual scent to it and it molds perfectly. Real creamy looking and smooth. Today I am burning the strawberries and cream crisco candle and seeing how it goes. I can't seem to find a level surface in my house which frustrates me more because then the candles tendle to lean towards one side. Leaving an overhang on one side. OY VEH! Do any of you have a all vegetable solution to making a blend with the soy? I usually use only EO's without any dyes. But with the FO's I still want it natural but need suggestions. I don't mind frost lines because it's the nature of the beast. But if there is any formulations that could help hold the scent better and prevent tunneling. That you have experienced. Crisco is in the works. Or if it is still tunneling should I add more Crisco the next pound of wax? Don't want to take anyones ideas just need some advise. Thanks all!

I tend to be a skeptic and a realist. On the top cover (reading it right now) it say 100% stabilized soy wax. I remember bending over backward to get a 100% soy candle to burn on one wick. Thinking to myself "If beanpod can do it how come we can't?" Duh because they have additives that prevent the cottage cheese look and tunneling when burning. How stupid can I be. I might have no choice but to double wick a 4 inch diameter container. Why are we so set on %100 soy. Don't get me wrong I am a naturalist. I use 100% soy. But if we add another vegetable additive to perfect the burn and scent throw and appearance and still call it a all natural vegetable wax why do I feel guilty? I have to use Vegetable and not parafin because there is a component in Petrolatum that I physically have a reaction to. So as a consumer and people like me what do you look for? My thought for the day!

Thanks Cathy, I tried 1 ounce of crisco per pound. I was too shy to go over that. I just did one candle. I am trying it on a 16oz jar with a 1312 wick. I will see what comes out of that. Strawberries and creme is the scent I tried. I have a hard time with that particular scent but the Crisco throws it right out there right after the pour. I will test it tomorrow.

Hey Peoples, I was reading the beanpod website. Of course the question is "How do they get their tops to look so smooth?" Well did you notice it reads that they are made FROM not of 100% soybean wax. Downing parafin as an additive but they don't say they dont use other vegetable additives. Any of us can make a candle FROM 100% soy wax with........ Its all proper marketing grammer that prevents it from being false advertising. They are giving the Illusion that it is made OF 100% soy wax but the truth is they are omitting whats really the base ingredients because the average consumer is not (please nobody take offense)an english major. Root candles don't even give any information so we know theirs is a blend for sure. Ergo and Votivo and all those expensive ones. I checked out each one of those candles. They all have a greasy feel to them like Vaseline. They have no hardness. So I bet my life they have some form of vegetable oil in them. I talked to several soy distributors including MC and they said the same about these candles. Plus they said it wouldn't sound like 100% soy if it didn't produce at least some frost lines. So thank you for listening to me ramble on.

First of all, I just wanted to thank all you crafty people out there who are so helpful and friendly on this sight. People tend to be competative especially if they are making it a business, and you are all supportive to one another. Anyway, I was wondering. I am using 16 and 24oz melting pot containers. I am having problems wicking them. I use MC 125 100% soy. I use 1 oz per pound of wax. I use HTP 1312 that MC offers. Yet still I have tunneling. How do these bigger companies do it without double wicking it? Is it because theirs is a blend? We all know deep down inside Beanpod and Root are blends. False advertising on there parts. I have tried two 104's and 105's not enough heat. I even tried 2 126 still not enough. I am getting so frustrated. Somebody give me some advise. I don't want to give up on 100% soy at least for the containers. But somebody throw a solution at me to try that is fool proof for 100% that still throws enough scent and has a full diameter burn pool for a four inch diameter jar. Thanks again