BusyBee

Sixteen Seventeen has light grey concrete container. https://sixteenseventeen.com/collections/copenhagen-modern-jar

Many people are satisfied with 6006 using HTP, but 6006 isn't my favorite wax at all. I am open to use any wax that performs well and produce good HT, but I find that soy or parasoy isn't one of them.

It's not a video, but picture should show how to use it. Quality of Tube wicks are better than wooden wicks, but people without a torch lighter will have hard time with ignition. And quite a few of them did not stay lit as with any wooden wicks.

It appears to me that they do not provide ingredients for Open-Window Fresh on their website.

Sometimes, nightmare can be turned into a good opportunity. We can be trusted more when we clean up our mess! 😉

Hmm! I am pretty sure they have excellent candles, since they have been business for quite some time now. Maybe the one in the picture is a bad batch? This could be one example that shows how inconsistent the waxes are that we are getting. I did have experience of having a bad batch for 300 candles before which I ended up replace all of them even though it turned out to be about 15% had problem.

SDS is not required for US candle makers, so not everyone has them. Only few companies do it voluntarily, and the ones in presence in Europe would have them. I am getting most these SDS searching European websites. Maison Louis Marie is located in Los Angeles, and they are close to me. They might have good in-house scents, but I don't think they have good candles. Sooting (see picture below) and I see some people complaining about lack of HT (typical for soy wax candle). Soy has excellent strong CT, but HT is a problematic! There is slight chance that you might be getting headache from excessive sooting from that candle. I cannot find their SDS either. FYI! Most SDS can be searched using this key word if there is such in existence. "(Maison Louis Marie candle) safety data sheet pdf Europe" Websites like "SEPHORA" has ingredient description. And some candle companies disclose their ingredients under "INGREDIENTS" section on their websites. Like @TallTayl says, those ingredients does not mean we know exact ingredients unless we know the actual supplier. But it is better than not knowing anything. https://www.sephora.com/

Every vegetable wax starts from being an oil, and general specification term in the industry would be oil even it is in a solid state which is wax. Oils are hydro processed to make them into solid state which we call it wax. Partially hydrogenated oils are something like shortening and fully hydrogenated oils could be called wax. Just coconut oils alone have about 150 different CAS number specifications (Soybean oil has 650 CAS specifications & surprisingly Paraffin only has 54.), but most candle company would just use general specification code CAS number for coconut oil on their SDS. Even if they specified exact CAS number on their SDS, that does not mean anything since two coconut oils from two different manufacturers with same specific CAS number could perform in different ways. Yes. One particular supplier’s wax can never be substitute with another supplier. Everyone’s hydro process should be different, and end result could be different. However, I pay close attention to melting point, viscosity, and needle penetration to assume its hydro process stage. My wife will never understand why I am poking candles with a nail. 😊 The pictures below are just Crisco alone. It burns better than any other candle wax. Well! Crisco was originally developed as for candle usage hundred year ago. I added this to GW 464, and HT increased by miles and burns a lot easier. But it killed its CT by miles also. It looks like there were big wave about adding Crisco to candles some years ago in candle making forums including this one. Yes! It works to certain stage. One more thing to add is that when you add vegetable oils, you need to treat it like FO. Wax cannot hold too much oil. I find that mixing waxes would be close to cooking rather than science. We are into candle making thinking that we can do better than big boys. And we should do everything to make better candles than big boys otherwise there would be no place for us to stand. This is a gigantic puzzle that we are trying to solve. CAS number does not specify exact ingredients. But at least, we can eliminate tons of unwanted puzzle pieces from it. Like @TallTayl pointed out, reading patents, product descriptions, SDS, and playing with other candles will lead us to finish goal line. Dream big and execute! You will end up front of everyone even if you have failed your big goal. It’s going to be long and lonely journey to the finish line. That’s why we are here to pull and push each other to that finish line. Have fun and be creative!

@jmspgh Don't be scared of mixing waxes, oils & vegetable shortenings! It will take several tries to make it work, but it is not that hard thing to do. Treat Paraffin or Coconut wax as main body wax, and treat all other waxes, oils & shortening as enhancer and/or additives. Ratio of main body wax should be about 70 to 80% and others are remaining percentage, but you can increase or decrease however you like to. Also, try not to use pre-blend waxes as the main body of wax! Here are some wax blend ingredients of name brand companies' candles! I don't have mix ratio, and this is best I can find. Voluspa Candle Waxes! [This ones is for you @TallTayl!] Glass jar candle just use Hydrogenated coconut oil CAS # 84836-98-6. Just coconut wax! Mini tins & 3 wick Tin use same Coconut wax as above plus Petrolatum & Paraffin Wax. Bath & Body Works! Hydrogenated Soybean oil CAS # 8016-70-4: something like GW 415 Paraffin CAS # 8002-74-2: IGI 1230 (10 - 30%) Hydrogenated Palm Oil CAS # 68514-74-9 Microcrystalline Wax CAS # 63231-60-7 Yankee Candle! Paraffin Polyethylene CAS # 9002-88-4: IGI 2000 series Paraffin and Palm blend is used by many name brand also. Soy wax can be used as main body wax, but HT is going to be weaker than others even though CT could be awesome.

I think Swiffer WetJet has 6 different scents, which are Gain Original, 2 febreze scents, Mr. Clean, Open Window Fresh, & Wood. I thought you were talking about "Swiffer Gain Original" since all others weren't called original. I was able to download scent formula from their website. Their website is https://swiffer.com/en-us

Another massive candle recall due to fire hazard. 142,000 Dollar Tree candles are being recalled. https://finance.yahoo.com/news/more-142-000-dollar-tree-150708977.html

I still think wood would be the top material which burns well enough to be used as candle wick. But its lack of capillary action on high density part of woods will make the wooden wick won't lit up or stay lit. Yes. Those old ones had sawdust coating, which would have ability to pull up melted waxes on outer surface. Small gap or any small particle on outer surface of any wick would create exterior capillary action. What if we scratch the wooden surface and create many tiny gab lines? Would that create enough capillary action on outer surface? I might try this too! First I have dig up wooden wick that would not lit up first. 😄

@TallTayl I don't think there is any way to make the wooden wick work consistently unless someone can make wooden wick out of 100% wood fibers or wood dust. Or design a wooden wick that would depend on exterior capillary action only. It's just nature of wood that would not provide consistent capillary action through the wood. I think "Sponiebr" in this forum came close to solution by hammering down on wooden wick trying to break wood fibers to make them loose. You are the one who started this idea some months ago, and this idea is working better than I expected. I am using a special wick that can be made to make this idea work. But I am leaning toward using shallow wider containers instead of tall narrow ones.

I am currently working with two wax manufacturers to create my own wax blend. If they cannot duplicate the wax that I am seeking, then coconut would be my choice of wax. IMO, I think coconut wax is the best among what we can get from the candle suppliers. So far, I like the coconut 83 by Accu-blend most. As TallTayl mentioned, coconut oil and palm oil supplying situation is getting worse. Coconut & palm candle makers would need to keep an eye on the supplying situation.

I finally had a chance to test taper wick theory to achieve different wick sizes in different parts of container. This gave me full melt pool from top to bottom without container getting hot. HT was constant from top to bottom, and almost no dancing flame problem at the bottom of jar when I reduced the wick size too. *This test was possible using wide flat wick, which I pulled it out and cut the wick to make it narrower & smaller size as candle burned down the container. This was the only first test. I will be doing a lot more. In Shallow & wider container, the wick size did not need to be reduced. I am at 1/5 bottom without need to reduce wick size to keep the container getting hot. I did reduced wick size by 10% which gave me less dancing flame at the 1/5 bottom.

Many dupe will pop up if you search "Gain Original Scent". Flaming, New York Scent & Amazon have them. I do have list of its aroma chemical ingredients (15 of them), but there are already many dupes available so I am not going to post it up here.

It looks like CS is importing it from Kerax in UK. Kerax used to be manufacturer and distributor of NGI EcoSoya in Europe. They took over EcoSoya brand, and they created separate EcoSoya brand division. It looks like they are continuing on with CB-135, CB-Advanced, & Pillar Blend. They are also starting new line of EcoSoya Melt, EcoCoco container blend & EcoCoco pillar blend. Since European candle regulations are totally different from ours, there is a slight chance that they might have changed CB-135 little bit. I have more interest in Kerax 4105 than CB-135.

@Kris10Tackles Congratulations! Now you might want to start digging Perfumers Apprentice website for the scent knowledge. It's a great website to learn about fragrances.

Hey! Can we charge more money for aging our candles like fine wine or aged steak? 😉 The thing that bothered me most about 6006 is melt pool shape. I am getting concave shape melt pool with 6006, and middle of melt pool near the wick gets really deep but outer edge still stays shallow. Is that only me or do you notice similar melt pool with your 6006? All other waxes I have tried create flat melt pool except 6006.

464 remain very close to when it was freshly made. 464 did not had problem like 6006 above. It dried up little bit (just little), but I haven't notice too much difference on hardness. One of my 464 is actually getting close being 3 years old now.

464 burns almost same after 2 years. Somehow I don't like 6006. Original developer of 6006 Dussek Campbell sold that formula to IGI long time ago. No wonder why they sold it.

Sorry that I missed "CLP". You must be in one of European country. You guys have totally different regulation over there than U.S., which we are not familiar with.

Probably not! SDSs are highly technical and should be written by or at least reviewed and approved by either a Certified Industrial Hygienist(CIH) or a certified toxicologist. You might want to call Chemtrec to got better information on your question. I don't think candle makers are required to provide SDS to consumers, and we are only required by OSHA to have SDSs in our workplace for ingredients such as FOs. Why do you want to create your own SDS? Whenever we change name of FOs or store mixed FOs, we will need to have our own SDS which is very costly process (including pay for 24 hour emergency contact). But we don't need to have our own separate SDS if your FOs are kept in original form that came from suppliers or manufacturers. Just blend them together into melted wax when you are pouring your candles.

Flickering and dancing flame can be caused by several reasons. 1. Not having constant fuel flow in the wick will cause flickering and soot. (bad capillary action): Right wick and right mixtures (waxex, FOs, additives, dye, etc.) can fix this problem. 2. Wick being too long will cause flickering and soot.: Self-trimming wick will fix this problem, but I find that it is hard to find real self-trimming wick. 3. Draft will cause dancing flame and soot. (air flow in the room): There is not much we can do but to move the candle to other location. As long as it does not produce soot in the draft, this should be acceptable. Right wick would not produce soot in the draft. 4. Convection will cause dancing flame. (air flow in the container): Most (if not all) of deep and narrow container will have strong air flows inside the jar due to convection, and it will cause the flame to dance around when it goes down to about 1/3 remaining of container. You can eliminate this problem by choosing to go with wider and shallow containers. But then, it is not easy to find the single wick that works in wider container. I guess this kind of dancing flame is very normal thing, but we need to make sure that flame does not hit the container when flame dances around. Don’t forget that many regular consumers do not trim their wicks, and flame could be bigger than what you would want to expect to be. And if it is hard to reach deep narrow containers, then the chance of them trimming wick is almost zero. Once again, self-trimming wick could solve this problem. *It appears to me that #1, 2 & 3 are not your problems since you are telling that there is no soot. You are right about we will never create that the ultimate perfect one! We will have to decide what is acceptable and what is not. I guess you are on the right track. *Don’t forget that safety should come first over performance when you choose!

Original vegetable shortening invented is called Crisco in 1911, but any no name brand shortening(partially hydrogenated oils) would work fine. I don't know what kind of soy waxes are available in your country, but beautiful top can be achieved if you pour the wax below 140F and lower. I pour at 135F. For the frosting of soy waxes, I just hide it by using colored container or tin. You should trying to find your own best formula for your soy wax since it should be different than what I use.