Jump to content

ErronB

Registered Users Plus
  • Posts

    417
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by ErronB

  1. There aren't any anymore, unfortunately. I even resorted to testing the chinese ones from amazon and they were awful. The Wooden Wick Co ones are a mixed bag really, they're easy to use with soy candles but when you get to anything else like parasoy or paraffin it becomes a real challenge to get them to burn properly / consistently.
  2. That’s interesting I’ve got literally every single wick types except those LOL, will have to give them a go.
  3. I just ordered all 3 to try out, I can't get this latest 6006 to wick properly at all, nothing will self-trim, looking forward to trying out the new stuff!
  4. I used 4627 for quite a while, whenever I tried double or triple wicking it would cause too many issues burning the bottom section of the candles. Worked great in tins with a single wick but that was about it, any jars I had to add soy or i'd get drowning wicks or smoke and soot even with low FO loads.
  5. I like everything better about melts. The throw, no flames to worry about.
  6. I totally get ya, that's why I kinda liked wooden wicks, almost no maintenance, but even with priming they still won't start the burn right all the time. I look at it like this... When CD is too big, I go to the small sizes of HTP like 41,52,62. They don't burn as hot so it's less HT, but that's the trade-off you make. Sometimes with some scents it works out better than way it's just a crapshoot like always, gotta just test each fragrance to figure it out.
  7. I'm either gonna have to drop the fragrance load a bit back to 6 or 7, or find a CD2 wick. It's getting a bit smoky towards the bottom. Not that it's unusual for a candle to do that, I just like it to be best as it can be.
  8. Yeah, that's what I ended up with. I re-tested the small HTP's 52/62 and it seems the best choice for a stable flame in a small jar. I always thought CD would work better for this kind of wax but even a CD3 the flame was too big.
  9. I've never made a candle where the wick can perform the same trimmed or untrimmed, it's one or the other, and it's pretty obvious what is the better choice lol. I'd burn it all the way down untrimmed and see how it goes.
  10. Funny I'm testing the exact same wick in a 6006 jar too, except mine is a bit smaller diameter, it's a flint jar like B&BW. I see people all the time using way bigger CD wicks and now it makes sense. They must be trimming them after every burn and not burning for long periods of time, there's just no other way they can work. I just started the CD3 off at 1/2 inch before lighting and looks good so far, I'm just over half way down. 8% FO load, 1 drop of dye.
  11. If I'm using HTP then I have to leave it longer, or the burn just messes up. CD / Eco etc I have to start at 1/4 or a bit shorter.
  12. I was using them as-is, no wick inside. I only use the booster variety now in .03 thicknesses and up because they're the only types that consistently stay lit and don't mess up. The spirals are basically just bigger versions of the tubes, I tested them and even with their own coco soy wax the flames were huge, total fail I don't know why they bothered.
  13. Thanks for the heads up, that's disappointing to hear. The guys from Northwoods use Eco 8-10 with a 9% FO load in a 3" status. When I tried that it was a joke, I can't believe that's their go-to formula. I think I'm gonna just have to stick with the Wooden Wick Co Coconut Soy and wooden wicks, it just works when you get it right. Shame really because I like the way coconut83 / northwoods throws with the softer fragrances, there's no way I'm gonna mix it, so I'll have to drop it if I can't get anything else to work. Thanks again.
  14. It seems like everything goes fine until I get a couple burns in then everything decides to mushroom or flames just don't stay tame. The Paper core wicks are almost passable, they mushroom but they fall off and the wick keeps going, maybe I'll try a size up and down. I tried wooden wicks and even they weren't working consistently after priming. I just need something to work that's self-trimming.
  15. I think this is the first wax I've ever used where I can't wick it, no series burns consistently in it for me so far. I've tried CD, Eco, RRD, LX, Premier, HTP, Paper Core..... I'm at a loss now. I love the way this coconut gives hot throw, it's unlike anything I've used before. But I can't wick the damn stuff. Cottonwood works okay if you trim it but nothing is consistent. I don't want to blend it with anything I need to use it 'as is'. Anyone else out there that uses this stuff that can at least give me a hint? (I've been testing in the 3" diameter paint can tins)
  16. I don't think I've ever smelled a candle with EO's where the scent is overwhelming, it's usually weak as piss compared to FO's. Plus I don't like the fact that there's a lot of talk about certain EO's letting off toxic fumes when they burn. I'd rather stick to FO that's made to be burned. This whole 'all natural' thing that people keep trying to go for is not really the safe-haven they think it is.
  17. I only burn the first time for between 3 and 4 hours, then the rest I'll do short and very long burns. Pretty much what a regular person would do with it. Then my final test is to burn the entire candle without trimming the wick (not the whole candle at once, in intervals). I have to be able to pick it up at any time during the burn without burning my hand. That one is hard for me to pass, but I get there after some serious work.
  18. I just used the last of my 4630, sticking to 4627 for the paraffin side of things. As messy as it is, I've never had to adjust any wicking, love how consistent it is. Plus, CandleScience have never wanted to help me with dodgy batches of wax. If I get broken jars they just send me a new case without hesitation, but wax..... I've always been screwed (not that it's happened a lot, but still). That's why I shop elsewhere nowadays.
  19. Very nice, and thanks for posting the pics it's always good to see a visual.
  20. I've only used colors from CandleScience and The Flaming Candle, but both have been good no issues.
  21. So you trim to 1/4 before lighting the first time and that's what they like?
  22. Interesting, I will definitely the heat gun idea. I can see how this would help with the rigidity of the twist. I usually just offset them slightly but that's only if I'm using 73 and up, the smaller ones barely curl over enough to effect the MP for me. I am still messing with wood in 4627 because the fast HT is a beast, now that they changed the wood type in some of the wicks they have some interesting results.
  23. 4627 is probably the strongest throwing wax I've ever used, I've got no idea why you would try and add vybar to it. I don't know the witchcraft behind LX wicks I cannot for the life of me get them to even remotely self-trim, HTP does work pretty good but it rarely ever does a totally clean burn even at 6%. Off the top of my head in a 8oz jelly jar I think I ended up using HTP 83 for those most of the time, but there was no escaping the soot and smoke unless you add some soy. Tins were better for that reason because they are wider than they are taller. 4630 burned cleaner for me with HTP.
  24. I have spirals coming, but I'm messing with the tube ones which I'm presuming are the same but smaller. They are working pretty good at low fragrance loads, no issues lighting them or staying lit which has always been a problem with using their other wicks since they changed the wood types. I think they were originally meant to be used over the top of a regular wick just for an aesthetic touch.
  25. I'll have to dig out some Eco's again, what sizes were your most common for the flint jars just under 3 inches? Around a 4? I'm messing with the weird round tube wicks in 6006 at the moment, kind of weird that they're working pretty good considering how thin the wood is.
×
×
  • Create New...