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Quentin

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  1. Quentin
    Who would have a copyright or a patent on a candle mold? Certain things can't be copyrighted or patented. Everyday items like automobiles, spoons, forks, pencils, cotton swabs, aspirin have no protection. They may have at a time long ago. New features MAY be patented, but Ford and Chevy don't have patents on the automobile. The list is endless. As to this instance, who holds the copyright or patent on the metal cylinder pillar mold? They're copied and manufactured by every candle company out there. As to silicone molds, they seem to mostly come from Russia and China. Does it have a patent number or copyright printed on it or included in the package? I seriously doubt whether those countries have any serious patent/copyright protection for their citizens. But if you want to be sure, just contact the company and ask them! They would be more than happy to provide you with any patent numbers, etc. that they have. I feel certain of that. Q
  2. Quentin
    I use alcohol for ALL my cleaning needs. In a situation like you're describing, I'd pour l little alcohol in the jar. Just enough to cover the top of the stuff Let it soak for less than an hour. It usually will pop right out with just a little pry from a sharp instrument like an ice pick. Then I take my Scotch Brite pad and use what's left of the alcohol to clean the remainder of the container, inside and out. Finishes up shiny, clean, and new looking. Q
  3. Quentin
    From this point forward, newly poured and cooled candles will be wrapped in tissue paper and plastic bags. They will be boxed, taped up and sealed with a sticker that says "Do not burn until (Date)". Thanks to all of you. One other thing I thought I mentioned somewhere along the way. What are some possible reasons that much of my container wax ends up as a sticky, gooey mess and never seems to harden completely? As the candle burns, it sticks to the sides. As I said, this mostly happened using the 444 soy. I've used no additives. I haven't had time to see what the 464 soy will do. Q
  4. Quentin
    Thanks Pam. I test them in every room of the house. Yes, your question about air flow does make sense. We don't have swamp coolers around this area. Strictly central AC/Heat. The return is in the hallway and located centrally somewhat.
  5. Quentin
    Thanks. I now know what part of my problem is; PATIENCE.
  6. Quentin
    I'm guessing that MP = Melting point?
  7. Quentin
    That brings up a couple of good thoughts. Generally, I add the fragrance about 5 degrees higher than the pour temperature, take it off the heat and stir until it drops to the pouring temp. Then pour, of course. I've had a couple of fair hot throws. If I burn the candle in a small room and walk away for awhile, when I come back I catch the scent right away. But that's not common. Yes everyone, I know to never leave a burning candle unattended. As far as curing time... I'm not very patient. It's sort of like Christmas Eve when you just can't wait till the morning to open the presents. I can't really give an exact time I use for curing. Overnight would be the best way I could answer. Won't the fragrance evaporate if they sit for too long?
  8. Quentin
    Hopefully. I know there are two types of Vybar. From what I read, I couldn't tell much difference in the two. I emailed the guy at the manufacturer. He said no more than 1% should ever be needed. That's the way he phrased it. He also told me you could make a 50/50 mix if you wanted to just as long as you don't go over 1% total. Q
  9. Quentin
    On my pillars for example, 6% unless the wax data says otherwise. If it says lower, like 3%, I give it 3% and no more. If the wax info says something like 12%, I might bump it up from 6% to 8%. At 6%, a 16oz(1 lb) mold gets 0.96 ozs of FO. If I make 3 lbs of wax (48 ozs) at 6% load that would be 2.88 ozs of FO. 2.88 ozs. divided by 3 lbs. brings back me back to 0.96 oz. as a check on myself. So my answer to you would be 0.96 ozs/lb.?? Hmm, something looks wrong here. Am I making a math error? My poor math knowledge has crippled me my whole life. I'm unsure. If I'm wrong, just tell me. I can take it without being embarrassed. Lay it on me! Oh, I should also let you know that I measure the amount of ozs I've arrived at on the scale, so I'm doing it by weight and not by volume. I think
  10. Quentin
    Well like I was saying I've used lots of different waxes. I can narrow it down some on the containers since that's the area where I've spent less time. Mostly 444 Soy and now I'm giving GB 464 a shot. In my container candles, some of them tend to sweat out at the top. Too much fragrance maybe? But once again, I've used no additives in my containers yet. I've also had problems with container wax never really hardening completely and having a gummy, gooey, sticky consistency. As for the pillars I've mostly used IGI 4625 Pillar blend but wanted something that was translucent. I've tried CBL-41 Votive/Pillar blend, but it takes too much time to work with, what with all the topping off and back filling. I've got a some IGI 1343 A I'm going to try tomorrow for pillars. I have settled in at 7% Stearic acid and 1% Vybar in all my pillars. When I first started this last fall, before I came across this forum, I was using the junk from Michael's and Hobby Lobby and a "general purpose" wax I bought from Amazon. The people on the forum here clued me in and convinced me to look elsewhere. Nearly every pillar I made with those had a blowout, so I want go back to that overpriced stuff. But let me just say again, I could count on two or three fingers the candles that have had an acceptable throw to them. Q
  11. Quentin
    Could someone shed the light on the subject of Vybar? I've read articles that say it locks up the fragrance and those that say it helps the fragrance. I even read one article where the author said it did both! I've used only 1% in my pillars and never put it in container candles. I've never gone over that amount. Yet I seem to be getting no hot throw at all. Some have a really good cold throw but no hot throw at all. The fragrance is strong in the melting pot (even overwhelming) but once I pour into the mold or container and let them cool the fragrance disappears. This is happening regardless of what wax I use. The problem is across the board. I should also mention that I've been using 7% stearic from the start in my pillars and nothing but wax and fragrance in my containers. What can I do about this? Very frustrated right now. Q
  12. Quentin
    I pour my bits of leftover wax or wax that went wrong into ice trays. I pour them in randomly. Then when I've nothing else to do, I take them out of the trays, break them up and place them in a mold and pour a light colored paraffin to fill the empty areas. They have been some of the most beautiful candles you've ever seen and some of the best burning ones.
  13. Quentin
    Thanks. From what you've told me and ncraders said, I now see the error of my thinking about this. I tend to overthink things. I gotta watch that. Q
  14. Quentin
    So you go by just exactly by what the mold holds?
  15. Quentin
    How do y'all decide how much extra paraffin to melt to account for the second pour? I'm ending up with too much leftover wax. Is there some sort of percentage of the weight of the candle or some general guideline for overage? Or is there none? Use this example: Let's say you want to test a new formula or wax and wick combo and you only want to pour one candle. Just one! You are using a mold that holds 10 ounces and you don't want much leftover wax. How would you determine how much wax to melt for that one task? Q
  16. Quentin
    National Candle Association. That must have been what I was thinking about. I'll check out those others too. Thanks.
  17. Quentin
    I just had a thought. The American Candle Association has technical papers and maybe some books on their website. I think I'll check it out and let y'all know what I found.
  18. Quentin
    I don't believe I could pick a favorite from the books I've read so far. Like I said, most of the ones available at Amazon and other online stores start out pretty good, but end up being little more than cookbooks and "creative idea" suggestions. No meat. Just potatos. Yes, I have that one. It does seem to be the best I've found so far.
  19. Quentin
    Sorry, I posted a general question in the wrong topic category. How do I move it? Q
  20. Quentin
    Almost all the books on candle making that I've read so far, have started out with lots of valuable information. Unfortunately, only the first third to one half of any of these books is technical information. The biggest parts are mostly recipes and things like "having fun with candles, etc." Can anyone out there recommend a book that might get more into the technical side? Is there a book out there that is considered the "bible" of the candle making hobby or industry? Q
  21. Quentin
    Let me clarify. I have some silicone molds. I want to make pillar candles with these molds. I read that stearic can destroy the mold. I don't want that to happen. Whether or not the customer chooses to burn them, I care not at all. If they DO choose to burn them, I want them to have a candle that will not collapse the first time they light it. What can I use as a substitute for stearic acid, so my silicone mold will not be damaged and the customer gets a candle that will not collapse? What can I use as a substitute for stearic acid that won't damage my mold? I should have just said that in the first place. Sorry. Q
  22. Quentin
    I want to fool around with some silicone molds and some paraffin. In my reading I saw mentioned that stearic acid can damage the silicone. Supposedly the stearic pits it. What can I use in place of stearic? OR, should I just make it with plain paraffin and assume that the person is buying it as a showpiece and not for burning?
  23. Quentin
    Good and helpful information you give here. I'm starting to realize that I'm trying to make this whole thing too difficult. That's one of my bad habits I guess you would say. It's obvious to me now that this is nothing to get stressed about. My A.D.H.D doesn't help either.
  24. Quentin
    Good information Candybee. I'm going to start throwing it all in from the start. Now about the Flashpoint, I've got to be more watchful about that. I came close the other night to setting my house on fire. Turned on the burner with the wax and pot in there. Went back to get something else. Got distracted by the computer. When I remembered, I ran back out to the garage. The water in the double boiler had all boiled away. The thermometer said 276F. It would have ignited at any moment. That was a real eye opener. Q
  25. Quentin
    Thanks Runner, more good information. I do that with my stearic and vybar. Sure makes things easier. Q
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