greenleaf

Hi Top, OK - I have talked to the manufacturer. They say that it is probably just the heat causing this and since it is re-absorbed that it shouldn't present any issues. The wax is really soft at the requests of their customers and due to this softness the oil may bead up occassionally. HTH

I just view 130MP as low when sitting in the UPS trucks and it is having a tendency to soften up - I was sharing what some of our customers have experienced at this point. In slab form, we do not see any oil in the wax migrate to the surface in our warehouse. To me - this would represent a candle with no oil in it. We are not doubting what you are seeing or experiencing - just trying to let you know what our own experience has been. Yes - we have made many candles and tested all of our FO's with this wax. Depending on the % of FO, we have seen some migrate to the top when it gets warm from being in our warehouse - which is where they tend to stay at that temp all the time. As noted, our warehouse is usually around 80-85, especially during the day. (Our A/C can only combat N. Texas summer heat to a point). To this point though - we have not had any reports from other customers about FO migrating to the top. I don't know if this is because they are still testing and haven't put them out at outdoor shows or what they may be doing. I can go to our board and ask and let you know what they are saying if you would like. 70/30 stands for the percentage of ingredients. Yes, we are representing that in a 10 lb slab - 70% (7 lbs) is soybean oil in some form. We appreciate the chance to answer your questions. If I can't, then I can always go see what the manufacturer says Thanks again,

Hey Top - we haven't noticed anything in our warehouse where it typically stays around 85. However, we have received word from some of our customers that their slabs are arriving pretty soft after being in the UPS truck for a while. We are now sealing both ends of the bag that holds the slab so there will be no potential loss of product. Since the 70/30 has what I consider to be a lower meltpoint (about 130) - I would have to think precautions to keep any finished candles as cool as possible during shipment would be most recommended. HTH

Looking good!

Well the FO load should be fine so that shouldn't be causing the frosting. I've never tested 70/30 with dye chips so I don't know how it works with it. Maybe someone on this board has and can let us know if they get frosting or not. Also, next round - try only heating to 190 and see if this helps. Sometimes just getting too hot can cause frosting - especially when it hits cool jars. I don't see this too often with the 70/30 so I am just taking some guesses" here based on making soy candles for a long time. Thanks

Hi - I answered some of your questions on our board but someone did catch the "frosting" here that I thought was just a reflection of light - good catch Candle Man How much FO pp of wax did you use with the 70/30? What kind of dye - liquid or solid? These look really good for your first candles. I know you will really enjoy this art. I would test burn these first to see how you are doing on wick size before making another test round. Test down well past the wide point of the jar so you have a chance to see if the candle "catches up" once you get to the narrower part. Sometimes the flame itself will heat the jar enough to help clean up in these shape jars. As you make other test candles, you can work on the wet spots. Usually it is just a matter of how slowly/quickly the wax cooled, warm jars vs. cool jars, and possible film residue as mystical pointed out. I'll certainly be watching for you on either board to see how your actual test burns go. We'll help you get the candle perfected and looking the way you want. Don't be afraid to ask us for help - we are here for you. Good luck and let us know how we can help. Thanks

- we appreciate you too - most definitely. I don't remember seeing the thread but that doesn't mean a thing. As others have already spoken up about their success or problems with Indo Teak, I don't think I need to go down that road either. I still maintain that a candle is a system and if all parts work together efficiently then it will be good - it's just a matter of trying to find that efficiency If anyone is experiencing problems with any of our products, including trying to find the right wick for our FO's and wax - please know that you are encouraged to contact us directly and we will be more than happy to be of assistance. Now CC - go get those candles made, your store is opening 10-1 Let me know if we can help with something! Thanks

I certainly understand that CC and was only pointing out that it wasn't just the oil - it's a combination of things and that combination isn't working for you. I just didn't want people thinking that it is Indonesian Teak by itself. I hope you understand and certainly wasn't trying to contradict your experience with it Brenda

This is the FIRST I have heard of this CC. Indo Teak is our top moving oil - even surpassing Maduro easily. I would say that your "smoking" issue is due to the high percentage FO load that you are at and the wicks that are being used - not just the oil itself. Indo Teak throws extremely well, even at a lesser fragrance load. You just don't have to be at this high of a level with the 70/30. You are just driving up your price by trying to load the 70/30 at this level. I know you want knock your socks off throw and this can be achieved at the lesser load. So - please don't give the indication that it is Indonesian Teak by itself - it is always a combination of wax, wick, any additive, and load of FO that causes a candle to do what it does - not just one piece. A candle is a "system" - not individual components. Let me know if I can help either of you with Indo Teak and getting the wicking figured out. Brenda As a note - CC is a valued customer of ours and I am just trying to defend our oil - nothing else . This is the first time that CC has posted anything about Indo Teak and I was a bit surprised to hear this. If ANYONE experiences problems with items purchased from us - please come to us and let us help you. We have MANY successes and most of them involving Indonesian Teak BUT I have to defend our top moving oil - just couldn't let it slide

I'm sorry I'll make it better if I can Oh - and the cases of wax typically weigh between 63-65 lbs avg. Haven't hit a 60 lb case yet.

MizbizzyB - could you please resend the email? I can't seem to locate it and I apologize for that. The price on the wax went up well over a month ago. We apologize but it can't be helped. Everything we get is going up because of increase in freight costs from everyone. We are trying to keep them to a minimum. The wax is $69 per case still in smaller quantities. There has not been another price increase Geekrunner. Thanks

Adding black with red will give you mauve/burgundy rose color. I know it sounds crazy but add some brown. Try like an 8:2 red/brown ratio and see where you are at - should be close to a lighter ketchup red. If not, add another drop of brown. HTH

You are most welcome. Look forward to working with you! Thanks

Our 70/30 wax cuts easily with a butter knife. Not all slabs are like this though. We are sampling a pillar wax that you have to use a screwdriver and Hammer to break it off (or one of those heated knives). But NOT the 70/30 container wax. It is nice and soft and easy to cut. HTH Brenda

Hmmm - I think you are talking about us It is a slab but it is very soft and easy to cut. HTH

Now MB - you know I'm trying to put together something for you Brenda

LOL - I have had other customers try this too. It certainly is not our recommended usage for container wax. One of them actually burned it as a free standing votive and I nearly had a stroke . We are getting samples from our manufacturer of the votive and pillar wax they have. I'll let you know how our testing goes with it and when we expect to add it if you are interested. Thanks for trying our products. Hope to have you as a customer Brenda

Hi Smellywax - I have answered some of your posts over there. Please know that we have addressed the batch issues with the manufacturer. All wax manufacturers have a range of specs for their wax and each batch made can vary slightly because it is a "range" that a wax processor can have it fall in to meet specifications. Our manufacturer has narrowed their range and addressed these, and other items, with their wax processor and we feel very confident that the issues we saw are being properly handled and that the wax will be much more consistent going forward. By reading our posts, you will see that we never walked away from any issue with the wax and have assisted everyone until they were taken care of and satisfied. Our manufacturer works closely with us, monitors this board and ours, to make sure that things are performing within specs. You, and all of our customers, will always be very well supported with any of our products. We look forward to assisting you and gaining your confidence. Thanks

Hi - sorry, I just saw this post. Please feel free to come over to our board and I will be more than willing to assist. I need to know approximately when you purchased the wax as I don't know who you are by board names. The date of the purchase tells me which batch I am dealing with. We are still sending out samples. I don't know when you requested yours. However, we are almost complete with this. Out of 1000+ requests - we have about 30 to go (we just sent out another round on Thursday or Friday). Anyway, just come on over and we will get you going so you can have good comparative results. Many, many people are having really good success with the 70/30. Thanks

Thank you so much for all the testing and information.

Well - I know several people have because I have the orders. It has been fairly recently since this is a newer oil for us. They may not have gotten through their testing yet. Saw that you posted on our site - let me see if I can get them to speak up Thanks for asking

The next smaller size is the ECO-2, which may be too small. What is the width of this jar? Thanks

Well - first, the label says its > 141 - which is for shipping purposes and to keep labeling costs down. All of our oils are over 140 FP so as not to violate any shipping regulations. Actual FP of our oils is on our web site - and they are above 141 as the label states. Many are way above. Easy definition of Flashpoint - The flashpoint refers to the temperature a fragrance oil would have to be in order to catch fire when coming into contact with a spark or an open flame. For example, if a fragrance oil has a flashpoint of 170, the oil would have to reach a minimum temperature of 170 degrees before it could catch fire when touching a flame. This does not mean that you cannot allow your candle wax to reach a higher temperature than the oil's flashpoint, it only pertains to the oil itself coming into contact with an open flame or spark. It is perfectly safe to allow your wax to heat up to whatever pouring temperature you need even if you are using a fragrance oil with a lower flashpoint - as long as you don't have an open flame or spark in the area when making the candle. If you have stirred your candles well and no FO separation has occurred - then the flashpoint of the combined product is much higher since candle wax carries a 4-500+ degree flashpoint and a majority of your finished product is mainly candle wax. HTH - let me know if you have any questions. Thanks

I posted this in another GL testing thread so this will be the 2nd time you've seen it - sorry, just want to make sure the people that need help see it. Thanks for understanding If the ECO's aren't working for you and the container you are using - I would try an LX or an HTP. Our users are finding that this works for them most times if they move to a different series wick. The ECO-4 has been the wick of choice for the 8 oz jj - but other shape jars may require a different series. Wet spots and cracks by the wick are shrinkage related as most of you know. I would pour a little cooler (too cool gets jump lines) into a warm (not hot) jar and then cover it with something to slow down the cooling process. If you are in a part of the country where it is still fairly cool outside then this is a definite recommendation. With our wax, it tends to be temperature related and how fast or slow they cool down. HTH

If the ECO's aren't working for you and the container you are using - I would try an LX or an HTP. Our users are finding that this works for them most times if they move to a different series wick. The ECO-4 has been the wick of choice for the 8 oz jj - but other shape jars may require a different series. Wet spots and cracks by the wick are shrinkage related as most of you know. I would pour a little cooler (too cool gets jump lines) into a warm (not hot) jar and then cover it with something to slow down the cooling process. If you are in a part of the country where it is still fairly cool outside then this is a definite recommendation. With our wax, it tends to be temperature related and how fast or slow they cool down. HTH